Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
Sign in to follow this  
mrjigger

opinions on alumacraft navigator 175 tiller

Recommended Posts

i have been looking at different boats. one is the 175 navigator tiller w/75 4st yammi.

please give opinions, ride, speed, etc. how well will it perform as an occasional bigger water boat like Mille Lacs.

also there will be times when i need to have 4 people in the boat. my wife and I as well as our two kids.

thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just got a 165 tiller Navigator - I would think the 175 would handle bigger water occasionally. It gas a 25" transom and the 2XB bottom where as mine is a 20" and 2XV bow only - I have wave wackers which help alot with the waves coming over the back when backtrolling. I usually fish Prior, White Bear and occasionaly Minnetonka - it's ideal for those types of lakes. It was honking the Sunday of opener weekend and I was on Minnetonka - it was much drier than I would have imagined. Maybe an occasional splash but nothing major - did not need my raingear for the ride. Did not go full out in those conditions (20 - 23 mph) and got passed by many a Ranger - oh well I didn't spend 50K either. It's very wide and roomy with a good layout. I like that the 175 has livewells in both the front and back - I don't.

Top speed with a 60 Mercury 4S is just over 40 mps per the GPS with me and my 2 1/2 year old son, 1/2 tank of gas and an empty livewell. This drops to about 30 - 32 mph with me and my buddy, full livewell and ton's of fishing gear. Some of this is definately due to the fact I go to my 12 pitch prop to get hole shot back at the expense of top speed. With that load it get's on plane easily.

Have had my whole family on the boat once - Memorial day. Wife and two small kids. No problem. Again, it is very wide and open so the kids can run around without tripping. It isn't a pontoon but it it pretty close.

Won't go into the whole Lund vs Alumacraft debate - I looked at both (Pro Guide) and decided on the Navigator. I would definately buy one again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a 2005 Alumacraft Navigator 175 with a 4-Stroke Yamaha. I love it. The boat has a ton of room. It is a great multi-species boat because of all that room. I fish Vermillion a lot and the boat has seen Mile Lacs. I have also had the boat up to Lower Manitou in Ontario. It handles big water just fine. It has a pretty smooth ride and because of the width it is fairly dry.

The huge gas tank is a bonus. On the trip to lower Manitou we spent four days fishing for muskies which involved a lot of driving. With the tank and the fuel injected Yammy I never had to add any of the spare gas I brought with.

The motor is quiet, fuel efficient and has plenty of power. I can get up to 36-37 mph with 1/4 tank of gas and just me in the boat. The only complaint I have about the motor is the junky steering tensioner that wore out quickly. The new Yamaha has a really nice tiller handle set-up with the Variable Trolling Speed Switch intergrated into the handle.

If you are fishing with your family you will really appreciate the room in the boat. It doesn't have a fancy rod locker with tubes but there is a good amount of storage.

I think you would really enjoy the boat if that is what you decide to go with.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks ptocko,

you have almost the same life I have right now. I got two small kids, 3 years and 3 months. Right now I have a bigger 182 crestliner tournament series with dual consoles.

Want to downsize because of various reasons. Mostly gas consumption. Currently I place my 3 year old in between my legs on the seat and steer with the steering wheel.

I am a little worried what to do with him when driving. Would not really feel comfortable setting him on his own seat yet going over bigger waves. Afraid he would fly out of the boat.

Not that I am complaining, but he won't let me leave the house withhout taking him fishing with me either.

Just curious, what you do with your 2 1/2 year old. Also going slow is not really an option either, my kid always want to go WOT. GO SUPER FAST DAD.

Maybe I am wrong, but I think the 175 also has the 20" transom. Cant think of an aluminum tiller model that is made with a 25". Maybe the PRO-V.

Thanks for your help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sorry Ptocko, your correct. The 175 does have the 25" transom. The dealer must have given me an old brochure. In there it says 20". Alumacraft HSOforum indicates 25"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jigger - 2 1/2 and 11 month old boys. My older one is the same way - wants to go fishing all of the time which is cool. I usually have him in my lap if its relatively smooth - if its rough I have him sit on the floor right next to me.

Per the AC HSOforum - the 175 is a 25" transom. I did not look at the 175 seriously but I seem to remember the transom being a 25" versus a 20" on the 165. Can't swear by that but the spec sheet says 25" for the 175. I don't know if that makes a huge difference - especially when you add wave wackers EXCEPT for if all you do is backtroll in big water

I don't think you will be dissappointed - I really like how wide it is. Very stable and lots of room for the kiddies. I can't tell you about super big water (Mille Lacs, red, Leech etc) but I have been on those lakes in smaller boats so I think you would be okay. When it comes down to it - when those lakes are really rolling - it really doesn't matter what you're on, it's not going to be pleasant.

Biggest difference between the navigator and boats designed for big water (Ranger, Warrior, Yar Craft etc) is how fast you can go in those conditions. If you don't mind going a little slower - as I said above 21 - 23'ish - you will get there safely and maybe a little (and I mean a little, not rain gear) wetter. As I said, I am pleased with my purchase and would buy again in a heartbeat. Good luck on your purchase. Paul

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Posts

    • Nilight Led Light Bar 2PCS 18w 4" Flood Driving Fog Light Off Road Lights Boat Lights driving lights Led Work Light SUV Jeep Lamp,2 years Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IY3YLCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Pj75zbQ34AMAQ
    • Last weekend I switched out my ramp door for a bay window.  I'd like to spray foam it, but I'm sure I won't be able to find anyone willing to do it professionally in my area, at least not at a reasonable price.  Last winter I had to drive an hour and a half to get the rest of it spray foamed for about $2000.  One company told me they wouldn't fire up their equipment for less than 1800. For this small of an area I'm thinking I would be just fine with the foam boards @ 2-3/4" thick with the furring.  Otherwise, does anyone know how well those Menards Froth Packs work?  $360 still seems kind of spendy to spray foam that little area myself.  
    • That's awesome. I gave mine a test last night and they weren't bright enough. I might have to order some bright lights from Amazon. 
    • Looking good! I also wanted reverse lights. I used some of the really bright light bars from Amazon on mine.  
    • I would fur it out another inch, then spray foam and finish to the furring strips.  No vapor barrier needed at that point.
    • Use 1x2 (actually 3/4"x1 1/2") PVC trim boards for firring strips on the face of studs. The PVC won't absorb any moisture and works well as a thermo break from the aluminum studs. They can be found at any of the big box lumber stores.
    • Moisture is likely condensing on the metal studs and being transferred to the paneling. Furring strips will probably be the best bet with metal studs. You can run them horizontal or vertical and then just attach the paneling to that. I personally wouldn't use a vapor barrier. Some guys do though. 
    • I have a 6.5x14 Ultra Shack. I'm guessing was built early 2000s. Had to tear apart interior walls due to moisture build up. Steel frame, with aluminum 1.5x1.5 or 1"x1" tube studs. Previously insulated with pink board foam between studs, with a thin quarter inch thick foam pad glued to the studs, then paneling glued over the top of it all. I'm thinking the issue was no vapor barrier? I have it all torn apart down to the studs. Wondering how I should finish it, use a vapor barrier such as poly? Or no vapor barrier? Any help is appreciated! Thanks!  -Nate
    • Check striker's page.  They have some of last years stuff onsale.
    • It's been awhile since I've had time to upload pictures. There has been a lot of progress made!  The siding is up and finished! The process was more difficult to manage with the bends and my lack of tape measure skill lol If i were to do the bends again I would make sure to order 2 sheets extra and order them at the length required to wrap the entire house. From the point on the nose all the way back to the middle of the rear wall. There ended up being vertical seams along the sides here, which in hind sight, isn't ideal.  One thing that i'm not sure I've noted is the bottom white trim. A lot of people use J- Channel on the bottom but you can order a trim called a step down. Which works awesome around the lower edges and doesn't fill up with ice and snow.  The trailer lights are all wired up and working. Seeing whats back behind these big trailers always drives me crazy so i bought the ones with reverse lights built in.  The maiden voyage was out into the parking lot and then back into the shop. It didn't fall apart so it was a success.  I took a few pictures of the bending process. It was a pretty simple setup. A big piece of angle aluminum secured between 2 - 2x4's with 2 clamps a bar and a big hammer worked really well. If you're going to do this make sure to add half of the rib height to whatever the measurement you're trying to hit is. And as i mentioned before, buy the length to wrap the house from the front point all the way to the middle of the rear wall.  We would clamp the bar down then hit it with the hammer to "break" the corrugations. Once they were broken it bent extremely easy.  We also got most of the lighting on the inside roughed in. I have 4 110 outlets and 2 USB plug ins for cell phone/misc charging. All of the lighting will run on 12V. I'm no engineer but, each of the lights in the picture draw 240mA so with them all on I'm thinking i'll get about 30 hours of run time on one battery. There will be 2 batteries for lighting and USB and a separate one for the heater so I should be ok for a weekend "off the grid". I'll have a generator as well to run the TV and other goodies which can charge the batteries as well.  I also picked up the material for the interior. Menard's is having their 11% sale until 10/21/17 and also a sale on their 5/16" Cedar tongue and groove. Between the two sales I got the price down to just under $1 per square foot. Apparently, they aren't stocking this specific Cedar anymore so I had to buy 3 different stores out of stock to get all that I needed. In the end I still didn't have enough to do the roof so i bought some Birch plywood to finish that part. I think a lighter ceiling will help the place feel a little bigger anyways. I got antsy last night and finished some of the cedar boards with Natural Finish Watco Danish Oil. It turned out to be the exact look I was going for. From what I've read i think finishing them all before installation is the way to go. Then once everything is up doing a quick coat of Danish to even everything out.  At this point i'm counting the Steps left to go instead of how many I have done! It's getting close to starting the fun part ( the interior). I'll keep everyone posted on the progress! 
  • Our Sponsors