Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
Sign in to follow this  
Fish Forever

Trolling Motor question

Recommended Posts

I have a question about mounting a trolling motor onto a fiberglass boat. My boat is a 17'6" Larson runabout. I know this isn't a fishing boat, but right now the budget does not allow me to purchase a fishing boat so I've got, what I've got. My first problem was have would mount a flat plate to a curved front bow. I called Larson and they were kind enough to give me their manufacture for trolling motor brackets. I talked to the manufacture and they said they could make a custom bracket with varying height stand-offs that would level the plate. My next concern was can the fiberglass handle this additional jarring? I know the boat is not reinforced at the bow for this type of thing like a "fish-ski model" but does anyone know the loads something like this can place on the trolling motor bracket? Is the force a twisting, bouncing, pulling, compressing force? I know this isn't the ideal situation but I love to fish more than I love to ski. Has anyone tried something like this? The other issue is I already have a like new bow mount trolling motor so I don't want to buy a rear mount if I don't have to. Any thoughts, hints, or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Also how far below the waterline is the trolling motor prop suppose to be?

Thanks for any info you can provide.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not sure as to what the front end of your boat will accomidate but I would definately consider getting a removeable trolling motor bracket. As long as you can get the motor off you should be all right. I have a Minnkota bracket that you can find in Cabelas / Bass Pro catalogs. Part of the bracket mounts to the boat and part to the trolling motor.

If you are out bouncing around going fast there is a decent amount of stress rut on that area. You might be fine but try giving Larson a call and see what they say.

Keep the prop deep enough to stay in the water but shallow enough not to hit any rocks.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you really want it set up right, I recommend you take

it to Jim Wentworth up in Nisswa - I used to work for him

rigging boats and he will know just what to do. (He rigs

the boats for In-Fisherman, BTW).

I'm assuming you have a fiberglass bow on that boat, so

you may want to go with a backer-board of marine plywood

under the motor bracket. However, I've rigged many bow

mount motors on glass boats and never had a problem.

Most glass boats have a pretty stout area wherever they

even THINK someone might step.

The Minn-Kota bracket is a good one, and you can detach the motor easily. If you do it yourself, consider:

1 - which side of the dock do you normally come in on?

Place the motor so your not always stepping over it.

You want the entire motor within the outline of the boat

if possible, hanging out only when deployed. (Just in case

you come into some dock on the 'other' side.

2 - Shaft length of motor, because in choppy water you don't want the motor to cavitate. Too long is more

easily dealt with than too short.

3 - No matter what you do, you WILL want to install some

sort of tie-down to hold the motor in its cradle while

bouncing along the waves (or the highway). I've seen

motors that have dropped down in both situations - it

aint pretty!

4 - A last tidbit - don't charge your trolling motor

battery with the motor connected to said battery - some

chargers feed too much A/C though, and the electronics of

some motors may not deal with that too well.



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I had the same problem on my first boat it was a fiberglass Bayliner that could not handle a standard bracket. If you are looking to do this on the cheap here is what I did and it lasted for three years with no problems before I finally traded in on a new Crestliner Sportfish.

I Cut a piece of 3/4" green treat plywood in the shape of the bow that was large enough to mount a removeable braket.

I then cut a piece of outdoor/marine carpet that was large enough to cover the top and sides of the plywood. Glued on the carpet with outdoor glue. Then I cut a smaller piece of plywood to fit under the bow fiberglass. Then clamped both pieces into place and drilled four holes through the strongest areas of the fiberglass. Fastened the top and bottom sections of plywood together with stanless steal bolts. Next I bolted the base of the removeable mount to the top piece of plywood. I had to drill additional holes in the mount to be able to bolt through the plywood where there was clearance away from the fiberglass.

I trailered this boat all over the state and ran it in some rough water. It was quite secure and by matching the carpet with the carpet that was in my boat it did not look too bad. A cheap way to solve your problem but with any garage fix your results could be different than mine.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  

  • Posts

    • Snag that stinks. I'm confused but your initial post though- you asked why do little penetration even if you hit the shoulder?  The answer is because you hit the shoulder!  (If I'm fact that's what happened). 6 inches is more than lots of shoulder hits get for penetration.  Plus with a big expandable you should expect less penetration (compared to a smaller diameter fixed head), particularly in a hit that contacts significant bone.    I'm not trying to give you heck here, just saying big expandable are not a good mix when one hits bone. Good luck- I hope you find him. 
    • I think we are both kinda right, I'm pretty positive that he saddled up and rode out of Sillytown at that time to never return. But he did come back to the cooking forum, a quick search confirms that. And when in somebodies house, ya gotta play by their rules. You have to adjust, just like in life. I have had the banhammer brought down on me a couple times and  have been a moderator. That takes some talent. lol I've said it before, Sillytown is the only place in my life that I deal with politics. I find it entertaining in the context here. There is not a single political post by me on my Facebook feed. You should lighten up a tad Del, then maybe I and others wouldn't pick on you as much. Enjoy the good eats coming up next week Del. Duff
    • 3k plus or minus a couple hundred depending on engine size I think
    • They are kinda neat.  Id like to see someone try and pull a smaller wheelhouse with one.  Anyone know prices?
    • You heard wrong and he left on his own, multiple times....
    • I have been adding a little equipment to my butchering hobby every year and this year I am going to add a bandsaw to the mix.  On the WWW there are a bunch of them in the 280-450 range that all look like rebranded clones of each other.    Then, from there it looks like the next jump is the Rikon/grizzly model that has bearing guides, a better blade and it looks like a better fit and finish for 650- 800 depending on the retailer. Does anyone have any experience with either of these types or anything similar?  I'm not going to spend the dollars to get a commercial model.     
    • Ya its been a long day. I don't know if I'm a puss or what but I havent even been able to eat today. Never lost a deer before. Hopefully never again. Worst part is I don't know what went wrong I would make exact same shot again.
    • Awesome thank you  
    • Sorry Charlie.  Way I heard it, the lords didn't like him having a plug for his sight in his .sig so he moved on, like many of the cooking folks did to another place.   I am there too, so come on over....  Just leave the politics here.  
  • Our Sponsors