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SomethingFishy*

Next-gen HDMI Turns your TV into an Internet Hub

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Next-gen HDMI Turns your TV into an Internet Hub

The next generation of High-Definition Multimedia Interface (HDMI) cables are going to give your HDTV a boost with a maximum 100Mb-per-second Internet connection, audio upstream capability and HD images at four times the resolution of 1080p. Lost amid this week's Bing and Google hype, was an announcement from HDMI Licensing -- the group responsible for managing the HDMI specification -- that the next generation of HDMI cables will provide new functionality, and do away with separate Ethernet connections for your various devices. Instead of a having tangled mess of cables behind your TV, the HDTV itself will act as an Internet hub for all those wired goodies in your living room. The new specification is called HDMI 1.4, and aims to take television's Internet connectivity to the next level.

Here's a breakdown of the new features:

HDMI Ethernet Channel

HDMI 1.4 will give High-def televisions a maximum 100Gb/s Internet connection that can be shared with other devices including Blu-ray players, gaming consoles and set-top boxes. This means you will be able to download content for your PlayStation 3 or Xbox 360 through your TVs Internet connection instead of needing a separate Ethernet cable for your console.

Audio Return Channel

Devices like Blu-ray players connected to your television will no longer need a separate cable to deliver audio and video. It will all be wrapped up in HDMI 1.4.

3D and Super Hi-def support

HDMI 1.4 will support many 3D formats up to 1080p resolution. If you want to go beyond high-def, the new HDMI also supports 4K x 2K resolution which is four times sharper than 1080p.

Better Still Image display

Digital photos will look better than ever with HDMI 1.4. The new specification will be able to display more life-like colors when connected to your digital camera, HDMI licensing says.

HDMI for your Car

Now your car can join in the HDMI fun, with HDMI 1.4's Automotive Connection System. This is a set of standards designed to overcome car-specific problems like heat distribution, vibration and noise to deliver HD images to in-vehicle displays.

The downside to HDMI 1.4

The new HDMI will only work with devices specifically designed for the new standard. HDMI 1.4 will have a 19-pin connector head that is 50 percent smaller than current HDMI cables. You also shouldn't expect any devices based on the new standard to hit store shelves any time soon. HDMI Licensing is set to release the new specifications to manufacturers between now and June 30. That means we probably won't be seeing any 1.4-enabled toys until some time in 2010.

While HDMI 1.4 brings us closer to the goal of having one cable to connect all your devices, I wonder if HDMI cables will be around much longer? The future is going to be wireless, and we've already seen TVs, gaming consoles and a variety of other devices with wireless capability. The push for wireless connectivity is also coming from a range of wireless standards like Bluetooth 3.0, wireless USB, and Wireless HD. There's been talk of wireless HDMI for years, and LG recently presented what it claimed to be a Wireless HDMI TV at this year's Consumer Electronics Show. However, that set required a separate media box to plug your devices into, and then the box would transmit information to the TV. That's not quite the goal we're looking for, but it shows that manufacturers are scrambling towards a wire-free world where even one cable is one too many.

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I've heard a buzz on this. It'll be very cool when it all is wrapped into one big package.

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I'll take cables over wireless any day.

Wireless may be fashionable, but cables work.

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wouldn't there have to be security on that signal too? Other wise your neighbor could pull free wireless TV and Satellite from your TV signal.

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I would assume it would be just like your secured wireless network.

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    • BEFORE BEGINNING

      Before you begin, make sure you have a good strong battery and make sure it's charged up. If you have a bad or weak battery, you may want to replace it because if it doesn't crank good and strong, you are likely to get a low, inaccurate reading. Make sure your engine is warmed up to operating temperature(if possible). About 10 minutes of riding should do.

      First, take out the spark plug and thread in the adapter for the compression tester. Make sure you have the correct size adapter for your particular ATV. Slide your kill switch to the "off" position. Some ATVs won't crank over with the kill switch in the "off" position, so if yours is like this, then you will need to either unhook your ignition coil or ground the end of the spark plug wire to a good ground. You can use a jumper wire with alligator clips on each end to ground it. Next, make sure the throttle is in the wide open position. You can either hold the throttle lever with your thumb or you may be able to tape it or use a zip tie to fasten it to your handlebars to hold it in the wide open position. If you don't have the throttle in the wide open position, you will probably get too low of a reading. Also, if you are testing a newly rebuilt engine, the engine needs to have been run for, at least, 30 or 40 minutes or you will probably get too low of a reading.

      NOTE: Before you begin with the actual test, make sure the threaded adapter is screwed in good and isn't leaking any air out around it.

      ACTUAL TESTING

      With the throttle in the wide open position, push the start button and crank the engine over until the hand on the gauge stops moving. Each time the engine turns over the hand should raise a little more until it reaches the maximum compression of the engine. When it stops, that is your compression reading. This usually takes no more than 10 seconds. Try to avoid cranking an engine for more than 10 seconds at a time as this is hard on the starter and the battery. Now, push the relief valve on your compression gauge and that will reset the hand back to zero. It's a good ideal to repeat the test a couple or three times to make sure you get an accurate reading. On kick start models, it will be the same procedure, but obviously you will be kicking it over instead of using a start button. Worn piston rings and cylinder walls will increase the number of strokes it takes to reach the maximum reading. If you're kicking, it could possibly take as many as 10-20 kicks to get the highest reading.

      THE READING

      You will need to check your repair manual for your particular model for the correct compression specifications. See note below. Usually, an engine will run OK if it has at least 100 PSI of compression. Most engines will have somewhere between 100-250 and some as high as 300 PSI, depending on the engine. Sometimes they will run with under 100 PSI, but usually not very well. If you get a low reading, you can do a "wet test" to try to help determine the problem.

      If your reading is too high, then you probably have carbon built up on your piston and combustion chamber.

      NOTE: You may get a low reading on some engines because some engines have a decompressor assembly built into the camshaft. Check the service manual for your quad to see whether or not your quad has a decompressor assembly built into the cam.

      WET TEST

      If you got a low reading, pour about 1-2 teaspoons of clean motor oil down into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and do the compression test again. If your reading increases, then your rings or cylinder walls are probably worn. If your reading doesn't increase, then it's probably your valves. You could have a bent valve, you may have leaky valve seats, or your valve clearance may not be adjusted properly. Also, low compression can be caused by a blown head gasket.

      CAUSES OF LOW COMPRESSION

      *Worn piston rings or worn or damaged cylinder walls
      *Leaking valves
      *Valve clearance not properly set
      *Blown head gasket

      CAUSE OF HIGH COMPRESSION (stock engines)

      *Carbon buildup in combustion chamber and on piston

      NOTE: Compression testing is a good way to keep track or "gauge" the wear in your engine. When you first get your ATV or when you rebuild the engine in your ATV, you can do a compression test and then later on, you can do them periodically. This will help you determine the wear in your engine each time you do a compression test and will guide you in knowing when your engine needs rebuilding.

      This is about all I can think of. I hope I didn't leave anything out and I hope this helps everyone with their compression tests.
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