Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Open bail question #2


Recommended Posts

A lot of places that I fish for carp are muddled with overhanging trees, logs, and snags (and often the carp head straight for those and I loose the carp) they unhook or the line snaps. I heard that if a carp is headed for a trouble spot, the angler should open the bail, thus reducing the pressure on the mouth, which turns or slows the carp. First, has anyone tried this (does it even make sense)? Second, have you had any success "steering" carp from trouble spots and how do you do this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's an interesting theory in opening the bail. I would think that if a fish gets hooked, it'll still run for a ways and/or get into cover even if the pressure is off.

Whenever I find myself carping in places where there's lots of debris in the water I try to bring a bigger rod spooled with fireline or powerpro incase I need to pull the fish out or away from the debris. Not as much fun, but you'll land more.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've never heard this theory before. I would think that releasing the spool wouldn't instantaneously slow the carp down from where they are going. If your going for numbers and landing the fish is important, you should rule out or prevent those factors from entering the situation altogether....simply beef up your setup. As Moonie suggested, if your fishing a snagy area it probably isn't a good idea to stick with a lighter setup for example. Put some bigger line on your reel and tighten up the drag...Personally, I enjoy fishing ultralight tackle with 6lb. mono, but I'll also have a few break-offs and the area is very sandy and free of snags and current. I like it because it usually involves a bit more thinking instead of just horsing a carp in on 60lb. braided for example. It's all about what you enjoy. Let that drag scream!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My input is pretty basic:

If I'm fishing snaggy areas I fish heavier equipment, because I hate losing a fish to snags. Wrestle the head away from the snags and they will swim elsewhere.

Giving slack is the #1 way to lose a fish as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have flipped the bail several times while reeling in carp. It usually happens when it seems like the fish is going to snap the line, so I panick and flip the bail instead of messing with the drag. I've also done this with bigger catfish on light tackle. I'll let the fish run with the line, then reel in. This seems to tire the fish out. Especially when they're in the current.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Personally, I enjoy fishing ultralight tackle with 6lb. mono, but I'll also have a few break-offs and the area is very sandy and free of snags and current. I like it because it usually involves a bit more thinking instead of just horsing a carp in on 60lb. braided for example. It's all about what you enjoy. Let that drag scream!!!

I have to agree with JimBuck nothing better then that drag screaming.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How about mixing some of each? I spool up my 500 series reel with 8lb braided line and a 8lb fluoro leader. Match it to an ultralight rod and I have a blast catching fish in pretty much any cover. I've horsed many carp/buffalo out from heavy timber with this set-up. It's like playing tug of war...someone has to give. Fortunately the braid/fluoro is abrasion resistant enough to handle being rubbed along wood (rip-rap, another story!). And then when you tag into some shortheads or mooneye, you still have a fair battle.

As for steering the fish away, you can always try, but often you don't have much a choice. I've heard fishing rivers with heavy current the tactic you described (opening bail or giving slack) has the potential to stop a stealhead on a run, but my hook ups with them are so few that I've never got the courage to give it a try!

To get a fish out of trees, here is what I do. Once the fish stops with its run (assuming it's wrapped around wood), I keep a constant pressure on it, but learn to "flex" with the fish...if it wants to run again, I'll extend the rod (and sometimes my body) toward the fish so that it can move a bit (2-5ft) and hopefully that will make it happy and it won't try to go another 15ft deeper into the wood. Make sense? Hard to describe, but it seems to work and it's kind of like your idea of releasing pressure.. Then keep a gentle pressure on the line and start to pull it back through. It doesn't work all the time, but has worked a high percentage. I fish in a lot of deadfalls, so I'm practicing quite often!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.