Irrigation issues!

[Powerstroke]

Since buying my home I've had some issues with getting my irrigation system working the way I'd like. To complicate matters my system is on a well so it is very flow and pressure sensitive. I just installed 2 new spray heads along my driveway cause people can't seem to stay on the pavement in the morning and raised up 2 more that were too low and leaning funny.

I've got several rotors that need rebuilding or replacing and I would like to install a newer controller. Right now I've still got the old RainBird wheel and it gets finicky.

I've got mostly Hunter PGP's with some Hunter I-20's and some Toro Super600's. It looks like the 2 Hunters are very similar. In fact I see no difference except the I-20's may be a higher quality, but the specs are about the same. I know the PGP's can operate at a lower pressure so I wonder if that has anything to do with it. Should I consider replacing the Toro's with something more adjustable? How about different nozzles in the Hunter heads?

Does anyone handle Hunter products? How easy is it for me to install a new controller?

[Powerstroke]

My urge to get this going right is so I can overseed the yard in the next month. I would like to run multiple cycles to keep new seed moist without having to adjust the controller every day to do what I want it to do. Having multiple programs would be easier and I want the heads to be more consistent.

[Jaydebull]

You may just want to get different nozzles and switch to a lower GPM ( Gallons Per Minute) to keep your pressure steady.. If you added additional spray heads to an already existing system i can gurantee that you will have pressure loss unless you switch your nozzles to a lower GPM. It's sounds like your system has been pieced together, so I doubt there would be any issues with type of sprinkler head you use.. Not quite familiar with the hunter I-20's but im thinking they are probably gear driven pop ups.. I know hunter over all are pretty decent heads reputation wise..

Make sure that your sprinklers cover from head to head.. that theres overlap.. if they reach each head then you have the right pressure.. Can't really say much more on it unless I was looking at it.. but sounds like your on the right track in what you want to do ..

[ScoutII]

I have a co-worker that lives in EP, if it is worth his while he might be able to help you. We are pretty busy. It seems you have a grasp of irragation system mechanics. If you need a good controler, we could help you. The number of stations or zones determines cost. Takes about an hour to install a controler, unless you have special needs. Myself and this co-worker are not hackers and have been in the business over 15 years. If you hire someone to install a clock be sure they are a licensed Low Voltage electrician.

[ottertailguy]

Timers are not that hard to change. Each valve uses 2 wires, 1 common one for all the valves (usually black) and 1 for each valve. I have a Toro timer that I got at Home Depot that works great. It doesn't look as fancy as my neighbors with Hunter timers but work just as good. As far as nozzles, I run 3gpm on full circle heads, 2gpm on 180 degree heads and 1.5 on 90 heads. They also make nozzles for low pressure I think. You should find out first how many gallon per minute your system has by doing a bucket test. If you fill a 5 gallon bucket in 30 second then it's 10 gallon per minute. But because of friction you probably should only use 6 gallons max per each zone at one time. That's where you add up the nozzles for each zone to be at or below 6gmm. Hope this help some.

[Shack]

Ottertail hit it right on the nail head.

I run an Orbit system and it is the same thing as Hunter.

The other thing to consider is upgrading your current control box to do what you want, minus having two control head units. I am sure they have a unit like this at the Hunter store in Coon Rapids (I think that is where it is still at) or maybe the Big Box stores also now.

Do you have unused/open zones left on your current control head? Short of looking like a golf course in the AM, I would see no need to run multiple zones during the day at the same time (I think that is what you are getting at). Manipulate the start times around your inside the house life style for water usage and you should be fine.

I guess I should not talk. I have a booster pump that I feed off of the well and I run about 7 heads per zone, with 8 zones. I guess that is like running two control heads at the same time.

[setterguy]

Do a search for MP rotators. They operate at a little lower pressure than a normal rotor, be careful if you decide to use a 360 degree head as they throw a lot of water. Very nice design on these little beauty's. Most normal rotors have somewhere between 10-15 moving parts, Mp rotators have one moving part in the whole head. We have installed over 4000 of these in the last 3 seasons and have a operation rate of 98.4% That's right less than 20 heads have needed to be replaced due to failure, and I'm not sure some weren't driven over by a car as they were right on the corner of a driveway...

Just something to consider, most people have never heard of them.

[Powerstroke]

The two new heads I installed were because they had been run over by a car. They were not new to the system. The guy who installed it was a irrigation professional so I don't understand why he has it so cobbled together except that I'm finding lots of his work was done this way.

I did see those MP rotators online last night. I was quite surprised by them. After doing some more reading I see that I'm gonna have to monitor my pressures on the line while in use to see what kind of pressure and GPM I'm getting. I only run 4 heads at a time in most spots except for my line of spray nozzles.