Gatores Posted April 3, 2008 Share Posted April 3, 2008 I was hoping someone could tell me why my brakes stick randomly. They stuck so bad tonight after stopping for a stop sign that I didnt think I was going to clear the intersection. I stopped and after about 15 minutes or so I was able to drive home with no more problems. The last time it did the same thing was probably more then a month ago. It seems like its only the front brakes and more on the left side. It recently had new pads, rotors and calipers on the front. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjmk Posted April 3, 2008 Share Posted April 3, 2008 usually it is a sign of moisture in your brake fluid. If the fluid has not been changed it would be a good start.Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shack Posted April 3, 2008 Share Posted April 3, 2008 Fluid is always the suspect, but!!Sticky/stuck caliper(s), collapsed (rubber) brake lines, master cly. Issues.I will start off asking, do you smell burning brake pad? Have you seen any smoke from the wheel wells? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gatores Posted April 3, 2008 Author Share Posted April 3, 2008 When they are "sticking" I smell burning brake pad. Tonight when they stuck I had to go a couple blocks to get to a spot that I could pullover. I got out and the front drivers side was really hot and you could smell it. The passenger side seemed fine. Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyjmk Posted April 3, 2008 Share Posted April 3, 2008 True but he said that he replaced the calipers and rotors and if they are sticking it will boil the fluid? causing more moisture issues. I agree it could be a line but not perhaps the master cylinder due to the occasional problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy airjer W Posted April 3, 2008 Share Posted April 3, 2008 This is likely not a brake fluid or "boil" issue. If the fluid did boil over than there would likely be no brake pedal or a spongy brake pedal. Boiling the brake fluid is exactly that it boils causing air pockets what happens to the brakes when there is air in the system, they don't work.When you replaced the calipers where they "loaded" calipers. Meaning did they come with new slides and the part that bolts to the knuckle. If they did than I would start by giving everything a good once over just to make sure there is nothing binding. If everything appears to be up to snuff than I would put money on a brake hose that has collapsed. If I remember right there are a couple of metal brackets that secure the hose to the strut. I have run into a couple of Hondas with a similar setup where the metal part around the hose rusted enough that it started to pinch of the hose. The hoses are not that expensive and may be worth trying to at least eliminate one possibility.I would recommend flushing the brake fluid after the problem is solved. can't go wrong with fresh fluid especially after the extreme conditions the existing fluid has undergone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gatores Posted April 3, 2008 Author Share Posted April 3, 2008 Nope they were just plain calipers. I will check it out today and see if they move smoothly. Is there a way to tell if the hose is collapsed or bad? Since no one has really said the master cylinder I assume the master cylinder couldnt cause this? Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shack Posted April 3, 2008 Share Posted April 3, 2008 I would just go threw the brakes (both sides) again. I just threw master in the mix, just because you never know. I would highly doubt the master would cause this.I would go threw and clean rust off brake pad slides, free up caliper mouting pins and you should be good to go. “I” would use dielectric grease on the slides/pines. Look at the mounting slide pines for any burrs, wear points or build up of old grease or rust. Clean pins in a wire wheel grinder and then look at them again. They are cheap, so replace if anything looks funny. Look and clean out any little boots around the pins. Also, I have seen an upside down pad or wrong side pad cause this issue. Make sure every thing is correct.I would assume it was after market calipers that where installed. It would not be the first time I have seen a “new” remanufactured caliper fail quick. As far as the brake line being collapsed, just look at the area Airjer said. Also look at the rubber line for any irregularities in the hose. Also pinch feel down for a mushy/soft spot. After looking at the brake line, when in doubt, change it out. Very cheap to do, verses having no brakes on the road.Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott K Posted April 3, 2008 Share Posted April 3, 2008 To check the hose, all you have to do is open a the bleeder screw when it is stuck, if the brakes release then, the hose is the cause, if not, it is the caliper piston binding, or caliper slides! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy airjer W Posted April 3, 2008 Share Posted April 3, 2008 Unloaded calipers you say, I would definitely take a look at the two slide pins that the caliper bolts to. Both of them should move in and out smoothly with little resistance. One more thing I thought of is make sure you didn't twist the brake hose when you replaced the caliper. I have never had this cause a brake to lock up but it is another possibility! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shack Posted April 3, 2008 Share Posted April 3, 2008 Originally Posted By: 4wanderingeyesTo check the hose, all you have to do is open a the bleeder screw when it is stuck, if the brakes release then, the hose is the cause, if not, it is the caliper piston binding, or caliper slides! Great tip!By the way it sounds; when he gets home the concern is gone. At that point it would be hard to diag. a hose this way. But, it might be a good idea (If it where me) to bring a 10m (I assume) and crack the bleeder on the road (if you can). I think it would require removal of the tire though, unless you can reach around on inside area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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