Jack Plate 1800 Fisherman question

[MSRiverdog]

I have an Lund 1800 Fisherman, best performance is with a 4 blade 18"P stainless, second hole up, there are times I'ld like to run a 3 blade 17"P stainless but have to drop the motor 1 hole or it's a slug. Looking at getting a manual JP, it doesn't matter once its dialed in with my F115 Yamaha as I don't change until I trash em and always have 3B spare on board.

I get 41.5GPS, some times more with the 4B18", my issue is that the 4B has a sharp leading edge, not good here on the river in the places I fish after the Spring high water. I think I can get that speed with a 3 blade but it sits an inch lower in the water, I can live with that as its leading edge is much more durable, I tend to go where prop boats don't belong a lot. The 4 blade gets me on top right now and a 3 blade won't, that's kind of important here on the creek, also running at top speed with the 3 on the second hole I have to trim the motor up or blow out and have to trim down to turn. Runs a little bow high to. Running this river without a jet sucks, and a new RiverPro ain't in the budget. Does the brand matter that much, there seems to be about a $100 spread in the manufacturers.

[VMS]

Hello..

From what you describe, it almost sounds like your 3 blade prop is the stock steel prop from Yamaha. About the only thing you gain from it is durability over a standard 3 blade aluminum prop.

With a higher-raked prop you should be able to get really good performance out of your boat. Lots to choose from, but testing is the only way you can find what works best. You'd be amazed at how two different brand props with same pitch and diameter will perform with vastly different characteristics.

With a good 3 blade prop, you shouldn't have to move the motor up and down, and you may even find it will perform as well as your 4 blade.

if you can get a hold of one, I'd suggest trying a ballistic 17 pitch...It'll give you decent handling and hole shot, but it all depends on how you want to run your boat.

Definitely is a project to work with, but it can be fun and enjoyable.

Steve

[bassNspear]

i would try different props before i would add a jackplate.

[marine_man]

 Originally Posted By: Bass N Spear

i would try different props before i would add a jackplate.

I agree with bass n spear here - a jackplate will add more setback and more leverage to your boat's transom. And I'm not saying that Aluminum boats aren't built for that, but I typically a fiberglass boat is more reinforced in this area specifically for a jackplate.

I'd experiment with a prop first.

marine_man

[MSRiverdog]

I jumped through all the hoops when I bought the boat in 2000, tested, you bet. Bottom line, the best prop for this boat for me on the transom is the Yamaha 4B18P 1 hole up, gets on plane right now and the boat draws about 1.5 feet on plane, with less tics on the skeg. I know the 17P Ballistic might not do that, it has to be run with the motor on the top hole, skeg deeper, the boat does draw more water. It does a better job getting skiers up but will not run the boat as high on the water, go figure?. I live on the river, I can see the difference in the crud on the side of the boat as to what the boat draws, 2"s with the 4B. The motor does not come with a prop, the 17" Yamaha aluminum prop does a reasonable job as a spare with my boat, the 17 stainless, as does the 4B gets 2 or 3 MPH more than the alu, but it rides lower in the water. I tried 18 and 20 SS 4's, 17, 19 and 21P Alu's and SS, the 4 blade 18SS keeps the motor close to 6000 RPM the best with the weight (2500#s?) of my boat. If I could afford to keep a spare 18SS I would but the leading edge gets chewed very easily the way the river has been the last couple years, the only reason I'll run a 3B, its more durable. In order for the boat to hit top speed with the 3B, second hole it has to be trimmed way high, close to blow out and then it's really bow high. There are times I would like to change props without moving the motor mounting, like when the river starts getting low. I want an opinion on manual jack plate prices, a Vance will run me $186.50 and shipping on hsolist and don't see much diff in brands. I figure the equation is gonna change anyway again with the setback, my guess is a 20 4BSS or a 19 3B SS could be best.