Rainy River Outboard Question

[wallegator]

What would be the smallest hp you would want to go on an 17-18ft full console Lund? Speed is not much of a concern, and the boat wouldn't venture much out of the river, with an occasional trip to 4 mile bay.

Most boats in the area seem to come with 100+ hp, is that mainly because they are equiped for the lake. Also is it true horsepower runs about $1000 for ever 10hp?

Thanks

[pfluemis]

Quote:

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What would be the smallest hp you would want to go on an 17-18ft full console Lund? Speed is not much of a concern, and the boat wouldn't venture much out of the river, with an occasional trip to 4 mile bay.

Most boats in the area seem to come with 100+ hp, is that mainly because they are equiped for the lake. Also is it true horsepower runs about $1000 for ever 10hp?

Thanks

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No, hp is not 100/1. Some motors can be had for much less, some are much more. For example, Merc right now is still pushing their 50 and 60 hp 4-strokes. They can be had for the low price of $6500. Yet you can also get a 75 hp left over for the same price. All depends on what you want. 25 hp are over $3000 now. A few years ago, 100/1 would ususally get you close, but it's not as simple as that anymore.

As far as the first question goes, it all depends on the boat, and what you will ultimately expect from the boat. You could put a 60 hp on it, but it would most likely only plane with just one person in the boat. A 90 hp would most likley allow the boat to perform decently in most conditions, but maxing out the hp is usually a popular response. Without knowing exactly what boat you are refering to, it's hard to give a decent answer. A boat like the Pro-V, IMO, would work just fine with a console and 90hp motor. You might be pushing your luck on a TYEE though, it might not perform well at all with less than 110hp. Something that can be taken into consideration is, if the boat is offered in both a tiller and a console, the boat will perform just fine with the max tiller hp on a console boat.

[Nodak7mm]

I subscribe to the "Max the HP to Hull" thought. Below are some of my reasons.

1. Safety - will not be underpowered in bad conditions. Also when having more than say 2-3 folks in boat, The tag may say 5 folks/950 lbs, you are not safe in less than perfect conditions at near max with half the rated hp. It gets hairy enough with 2 large norwegians, alot of gear and trying to get back to the ramp in 4' seas, I want all the power I can have back there.

2. Resale - Who wants to buy an 18' console boat with a 50 hp motor. The guy selling it is not happy with the combo, just ask him. Its a marketing ploy to get you into a the boat you really want at the price you want.

3. Pride/happiness in having the best combo for that hull, knowing your safe, not underpowered and you have decent resale value.

Just a couple reasons of why I say go with max hp.

Rod

[wallegator]

Thanks for the info pfleumis and nodak.

Great information and suggestions to consider.

I never thought about resale when considering the combo, I was thinking seperately, but that makes a lot of sense.

The only thing going for the lower hp is possibly the price and the fact that the boat will not ever go out very far. The furthest being 4 mile bay on calm days. However, it sounds like if some good searching and timing is done, more hp doesnt have to cost more.

Now, whether to buy a cheaper boat now, or just go with the Lund for the resale?

[iffy]

Lund for the resale? Heck thats just one good reason to own a Lund. The pleasure of using a Lund yourself would far outweigh the resale benifit. They are the most popular boat in walleye country for good reason. Do yourself a favor and get a Lund with close to maximum HP. You won't be sorry.

[brketo]

I have 16 ft wide deep LUND with HONDA 15 hp 4 stroke and run up and down the Rainy with 4 adults with no proplems plus all over the Lake