Suburban Shocks?

[Yellow Dog]

Lately I feel every little bump in the road and the Burb rocks from side to side when turning onto side roads or driveways. Tires,pitman arm,and idler arm new. Think I need new shocks? Can I replace myself and what's needed for tools? Any suggestions on types of shocks? (Mostly over the highway - pulling boat or snowmo trailer). Thanks for any help!

[New Yankee]

Yellow Dog - the feel of the road is more likely due to the new tires - if they have stiffer sidewalls, more ply's, more agressive tread, etc they'll ride rougher.

Shocks won't hurt though. Frankly, unless you have an impact and a floor jack the few bucks (probably around 8-12/shock) you'll save isn't worth it IMO. To test them get your truck rocking in an up and down motion and let it go - if it essentially stops in one travel up/down they are OK - if it rocks more than that you need a new set. Look at them as well - if they are leaking oil the seals are probably shot and you should replace them.

You generally get what you pay for in shocks. If you are going to keep the truck I'd look at the larger diameter gas shocks. Always replace them all or at least front or back. My two....

[Yellow Dog]

New Yankee -

Thanks! The tires are Wild Country SUV tires - supposed to be smooth on the road. I'll try the bouncing test. A friend has floor jack and impact wrench. Maybe he'll give me a hand if I bribe him with big crappies!!

[ccarlson]

Yellow Dog,

I just replaced my shocks on my 3/4 ton suburban. I noticed mine were bad by the fact that when I went over cracks and ruts in the highway, there was quick residual bounce in the tires/suspension. On corners with bumps and cracks, the suburban would bounce and creep over on the road after the rough pavement hits.

Anyway, I did a little research and found that if I wanted a good ride, I did not want gas shocks. Instead I went with NAPA sensitrac shocks. They ride very well and provide plenty of support for towing. The only reason I would go with gas shocks is if you are maxing out your towing capacity for your rig on a regular basis. I occasonally pull a bobcat and even with that, the sensitracks are very good. With my ranger boat, they are perfect, not at all overworked, and my ride is much better.

I would recommend the same type shock for a half ton.

I expected to pay more at NAPA and was surprised to find their price was about $10 cheaper per shock than the ones I had picked out at Fleet farm.

Oh, I did it myself and it was not bad. The back ones were a little tricky reaching the upper bolts but very do-able.

ccarlson

[Yellow Dog]

CC -

Thanks for the tip on Sensitracs. Your description is exactly what I am facing. Any particular tools needed?

Anybody else have any tips on shocks?

[Fisher Dave]

Usually a breaker 1/2" breaker bar and a ratchet matched with the proper size 6 point socket will take care of the needs for shocks. An impact can make it easier and faster, but standard hand tools will work. Sometimes its easier if the existing bolts break.

Shocks are not that difficult, just dont break your knuckles and you will have them done in no time. You will notice an immediate difference in handling with new shocks... want to change mine while your at it? I've been putting it off for a while.. my fronts are pretty much froze.. hard on the tires.

[ccarlson]

I would spray the bolts with liquid wrench a day before changing them out. The only ones you DON'T want to break are the upper bolts in the back. If they break, you're in trouble as they don't cross the shock, instead there are two bolts shooting up into a threaded housing.

ccarlson