Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

  • 0

Strikemaster Gas Tank Repair


Gissert

Question

5 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

I've used a soldering gun to "weld" along the bad spots with limited success, epoxies tend to get brittle and chip off. The only thing (besides a new tank) that works well is a product called Kreem, available at snowmobile and some small engine repair shops. It is used as a liner to coat the inside of a tank. It is nasty stuff, vapours are very strong. You need to make sure the stuff coats every inch inside the tank, and it helps to let it sit for a while, turn the tank around, then let it sit for a while (half an hour or so each time) letting it build up, especially where it has a hole. Tape that up to keep the Kreem from leaking out. Use a grease to temporarily fill the outlet for the gas hose, put enuff in the hole to "bubble" into the tank, then drill or use a coat hanger later when the tank is done to pop the hole so gas can flow. Exacto knives work well, too, if you can reach inside the tank far enuff. Watch the filler opening, remove any Kreem that gets onto the threaded areas immediately or the cap will be tuff to screw/unscrew. Prep the tank good with dish soap and water, toss some sheetrock screws inside with a few assorted nuts and bolts to scuff the surface, shake it a lot, rinse and repeat. Acetone or brake cleaner is a good solvent for the last wash/cleaning cycle. Kreem has their own prep solvents, but they are made for metal tanks. Remove all screws, nuts, etc. before treating the tank..

A bottle of Kreem sells for around $10.00, and the "kit" is around $30.00. Let it sit overnight, putting the tank in a position so the remainder of Kreem will fill the lowest spot, usually the suspect area, then put on another coat the next day. The amount you put in varies on the size of the tank, just put in a little, say two or three ounces at first and work with it for a while, see if you need more as it slowly dries/hardens. The reason you want a full coat is so the plastic liner doesn't lose its shape, or let fuel under the coat and work its way behind it. I've saved hundreds of tanks with this stuff, mostly chainsaws, but motorcycles as well, and they never get abused...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Quote:


I have a small hole in the side of my gas tank on my auger. It is the semi-clear tank. Any reccomendations on what kind of sealer to use?


Just call strikemaster and get a new tank. Just got one on my doorstep today for my mag 2000. I broke the choke lever and it's part of the tank assembly. The tank was $15.00 With tax and shipping it was about $22.00. I fyou close and have time you could save the shipping and they'll install while you wait.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 0

Thanks for all the ideas. My soloution was right in front of me, and I can't believe I did not think of it.

We have a bunch of shelf life expired sealant for aircraft fuel tanks here at work. Duh!I'll just use that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • If you really want to treat your wife (and yourself) with a remote operated trolling motor, the Minn Kota Ulterra is about easy as it gets.  Auto stow and deploy is pretty awesome.  You just have to turn the motor on when you go out and that the last time you have to touch it.   24V 80lb.  60 inch shaft is probably the right length for your boat.  They ain’t cheap - about $3k - but neither one of you would have to leave your seat to use it all day.
    • Wanderer, thanks for your reply. I do intend for it to be 24 volt, with a thrust of 70-80. Spot lock is a must (my wife is looking forward to not being the anchor person any more).  With my old boat we did quite a lot of pulling shad raps and hot n tots, using the trolling motor. Unlikely that we will fish in whitecaps, did plenty of that when I was younger. I also need a wireless remote, not going back to a foot pedal. We do a fair amount of bobber fishing. I don't think I will bother with a depth finder on the trolling motor. I am leaning toward moving my Garmin depth finder from my old boat to the new one, just because I am so used to it and it works well for me. I am 70 years old and kinda set in my ways...
    • Dang, new content and now answers.   First, congrats on the new boat!   My recommendation is to get the most thrust you can in 24V, assuming a boat that size isn’t running 36V.  80 might be tops?  I’m partial to MinnKota.     How do you plan to use the trolling motor is an important question too.     All weather or just nice weather?   Casting a lot or bait dragging?   Bobber or panfish fishing?   Spot lock?  Networked with depth finders?  What brand of depth finders?
    • We have bought a new boat, which we will be picking up this spring. It is an Alumacraft Competitor 165 sport with a 90 horse Yamaha motor. I will be buying and installing a trolling motor,  wondering if I can get some recommendations on what pound thrust I will want for this boat?  Also, I will be selling my old boat, is there a good way to determine the value on an older boat ( mid-80's with a 75 horse 2-stroke  Mariner motor)  I will appreciate any help with these questions.
    • Sketti...  not out of a jar either!
    • Lol yeah I watched that
    • I went ahead and watched some of the MLF coverage.  Wheeler didn’t make the cut but the bigger story was the Poche/Avera fallout.   Kinda funny listening to both sides of the story and putting together the scenario, reading between the lines.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.