Food Plot

[wallter]

I don't have any farm equipment but would like to plant a food plot. Any idea's for a first timer? How to? Thanks.

[Ole1855]

Wallter,

It kinda depends on if you have an area that is wooded or open. On my property we had a couple of small fields that we made into plots. We actually started small and we are adding on as we go. We used a big walk behind rear tine tiller and busted our butts to get a couple of areas worked up so we could plant, it worked very well, but it was alot of work. As we expanded, we contacted a local farmer that had a 8' wide tiller that he had mounted on a farm tractor. We paid him to come in and till up a couple of acres of land in several places, much easier!!! This spring and summer we plan on disking the soil back up and planting the areas that he tilled.

I don't know if this helps you or not, hopefully it does.

Ole

[Mark Christianson]

Everything you ever wanted to know about food plots....

http://www.fishingminnesota.com/forum/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB66&Number=439553&page=1&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1

[JohnnyC77]

Go to a rent-all store of some time and rent a hand tiller for a day or two. You can also get seed that doesn't need to be put deep into the soil to grow. Lots of water if you can will also help. Get your soil tested, like many people in posts have said, that makes a differece. Another thing that you should do is put up something to keep animals OUT for a while, like a scarecrow or something. This is because you want your forage to get a chance to get well rooted before you let animals eat it. If it gets trampled and eaten to the root at an early age (and before it spreads heavy) the chances of it becomming good deminish. They sell some type of ribbon and spray combo that is supposted to keep them off. Just some advice, but go read the rest of the links for more. Where exactally are you from wallter and what kind of hunting do you do (gun bow muzzle)?

Johnny C

[wallter]

Guys,

Thanks for the info. I'll put it into practice. Johnny I'm from Stacy, MN, it looks like your from So. MN?

How has a food plot affected traffic during the season vs. no food plot (any guess on # of add'l deer)?

[wallter]

Big Lake Ba$$,

I read your attachment and it's great. Any tips on what equipment I'll need (is doing things by hand way to much work)? All I really own is a 4 wheeler (no attachments). Thanks all.

[JohnnyC77]

You can purchase expensive attachments for a four wheeler or go at it for cheap. The best i have seen is a do-it-aller from Gander for 3000 big ones (so that means that if you went somewhere else it would probabally be close to 2000)I am sure that either at a garage sale or at fleet farm for much less. If you don't want to shell out bucks for an attachment, you can rent/buy a hand tiller which will be A LOT more work, but cheaper. Also you can get your soil tested to see what you have to add to it or fertilize it with. I know that Mossy Oak's foot plot division will test your soil for like $7 and I think there are county agencies taht might do the same thing. That is about all I know for now. Visit different food plot maker's websites, they can be very helpful. GOOD LUCK and keep the questions comming...I love to help people as best I can, and I am pretty sure most other people on this site like to also, and do it very well indeed!!

Johnny C

[Mark Christianson]

You dont have to go expensive.

We bought an ATV disc at Fleet Farm for $399, and I got 2 different old farm drag type units for 10 bucks from a farmer.

I also bought a 125 lb pull behind spreader for lime and fertilizer and that was about $100.

It takes elbow grease to get plots made. Thats the most important thing.

Last year was my first year of plot building and it took a LOT of time to break ground. Going forward it will be much easier now that they are developed.

Although, I am planning on adding 3 more at least this coming spring.

[JohnnyC77]

I also saw on some show (Drury Outdoors I THINK) they just used a truck or 4wheeler and drug a wood pallet around to mix up seeds and soil!! So if you are really creative it wouldn't be much of a cost. If you do but stuff like uffda, once you have it you use it forever!!

[wallter]

Big Lake Ba$$ and JohnnyC77,

That is a serious buck(BLB), nice job. I'm curious what you guys think regarding # of deer (especially bucks)you used to see vs. # of deer you see since food plot was put in??? Thanks as always.

[Mark Christianson]

Hard for me to say what type of gain we had in deer numbers.

I started using trail cameras hard this past year too, and I get a lot of pics. I wish I had trail cameras before food plots, because that would have been a great way to gauge the change in deer numbers and movements.

I had 5 different bucks the week before deer season this year on trail cameras, but not a one of them was ever spotted during the time we hunted. The one I got(my avatar), I had never seen or gotten any pics of all summer or fall.

I think there is more deer frequenting the area, but I have no solid proof. Ironically though, this years deer season was one of the worst years we have had in seeing deer while hunting. Go figure...... But, I cant argue with the one I got either.

I did get one picture in late summer of a giant 11 pt that our neighboring farm got as well on opening day of rifle season.

[JohnnyC77]

BigLake, the reason you saw a lot of deer before the season and not during could MAYBE be do to the fact that the buck groups of summer disbanded and they headed off to places unknown, or they could be very good and hide-and-go-seek. Also, the one you shot could have been trolling for a mate and just wandered into your sights!

Wallter-

I really can't say how much a food plot would help for sure yet exactly. After I build one for my mom up by Cook Minnesota and one by my house in Houston, I will be able to tell you better. I do know some generalizations though.

You should see a jump in deer numbers and size strictly because there will be more food available for them. First reason being because the does in the area will be better nourished and have healthier fawns. Fawns that have a better chance to grow into big deer. Second reason is the existing deer have to expend less energy for food and won't die of starvation, especially if it is a hard winter. Thirdly, it will draw in deer from other areas that don't contain as much forage!! You MIGHT (and should) see an increase in the size of your deer and racks because of better forage. If you want larger racks though the trick is to plant year round.

Try to plant some in the spring and some for later in fall and winter. The fall winter will be the plots that attract deer for the most part and get them through the winter. The spring/summer ones are very important too. They are important because the spring plots will nourish your deer during the growing phases, thus leading to larger bodies and antlers!! As you know, late spring and summer is the critical period for antler growth. Second reason to plant some in the spring is because it keeps deer hanging around all year. This makes for better,easier pre-season scouting and possible imprinting of fawns. I have read (so not for sure) that fawns (especially young bucks) get attached to the place they were raised. I think it has something to do with mother bond, and also the fact they know where the food is. You could also try to plant some native plants that will help the enhance the attraction and health of your plot.

Things such as oak trees (white preferred), apple trees, crab apples, gapes, crab apples, small cedar trees, raspberries, and probably much more that I am missing. All of these have a native attraction to deer and a lot of them come about at differing times. These shouldn’t be the main course, but more of an appetizer or side dish. Another thing you could try to plant is either turnips or potatoes. These will really kick in come winter. I have seen people do this and have MANY deer digging down through the snow to get at them. They are high energy also, which really aides those big bucks that survived the rut. Along with the food though, you should also try minerals.

Minerals are going to be the easiest part of your plot if you want. At the least, try to throw a salt block or two in opposite corners. They can be the basic cheap kind, but I would recommend some that are formulated for deer. There are even some especially made for antler growth. Some you mix into the dirt and some are just blocks, I don’t think it makes a difference. Obviously you want to but these out at the beginning of the year and just keep replacing them when they get low. I have already said a mouthful, but I just have one more topic to hit on: Food plot style.

A lot of people make the mistake of making a giant square, it works to a point, but you get more use out of it when it is a rectangle. If it is a big square, deer tend to hang on the fringes, and over graze the outside edges leaving the middle untouched. Make your food plot in the shape of a rectangle and make a few smaller ones instead of one big one, if you can. If you have no choice and the field is already big, just go for it because it will be alright. I am just saying if you are making some from scratch. Also, make sure the edges have good cover for a safe feel. One last thing, try to leave a few over hanging trees, so the deer have places to do their scraping come fall!! SORRY IT WAS SOO LONG! I apologize if this is way to much info for you!! Pick up this months North Americ. Whitetail, it has something on food plots and machinery!

Johnny C

[PerchJerker]

Hey Wallter. My land is in the "big woods" up in northern Minnesota. I've got 5 food plots and there is absolutely no question at all that they greatly increase the amount of time deer spend on and around my property. I see a lot of does and young bucks while hunting, and with my deer cameras I get photos of shooter bucks every year. It's way better than before I had the food plots.

I work my plots with an atv and implements for the atv. Assuming your soil ph is OK (or you lime to get it OK) the toughest part is breaking up the ground (discing).

If that's not an option for you, another idea is to use Round-up to kill everything. Spray your food plot 2-3 times between mid-May and early August. By then your plot should be free of any growing vegetation. Broadcast something like oats, wheat, rye grain, rape, turnips - it should come up fast (assuming you get some rain) and attract the deer in the fall. If you plant clover in the fall there probably won't be enough growth to feed the deer, but it should come back good the following spring.

Hope this helps, good luck.

[Beeber]

If you are looking for a top of the line food plot seeder I have a Brillion advertised in the Used Boats and Gear forum. Check it out.

[cyberamish]

Has anyone had experience/luck with planting apple trees in a food plot? I was looking at planting 8 cold hearty apple trees this fall up around the Duluth area.

[PerchJerker]

I've planted several dozen cold-hardy apples, pears, plums and other wildlife trees and shrubs over the last 5 years. None of them have produced fruit yet but several of them are growing really well. One of my "to-dos" for this spring is spend more time mulching and cutting out competing vegetation around them. I can't wait for the year they produce.

[Beeber]

I'm in the same boat. I've planted a number of cold hearty apple trees North of Hibbing in the last 6 years and I have yet to get an apple crop. My wife who was a hort major in college says I am wasting my time. On the same property in the early eighties we planted 4 trees however I do not know which varieties they were. After nearly 20 years they finally started to produce apples. I'm hoping I do not have to wait that long for the rest of them.

Good luck

[cyberamish]

I planted four trees on our land in Carlton about 4 years ago. They bloomed last year but not sure if they ever gave up fruit as I wasn't up there all summer. Looking to plant 8 to 10 in the Cromwell area along with an annual food plot (sunflowers, beets, pumpkins). Figure I will have to surround the trees with chicken wire for the first few years but hopefully they will take. After that it's a matter of keeping the bears out.

[PerchJerker]

I've got bears at my place too (40 miles NW of Grand Rapids) - I sure hope they don't wreck my fruit trees. Of course, I'll need to get fruit on them sooner or later to even tempt the bears.

My trees mostly came from St. Lawrence Nursery in upper New York. They are a zone 2 grower and have some great selections (check out their HSOforum if interested). I tried to select apple trees with a variety of traits, such as vigorous growth, fruiting at an early age, annual bearer of heavy crops, how early or late the fruit ripens, and how long it stays on the tree. I've also planted several of their wildlife apples (cheaper trees).

Also, Quality Whitetails (the QDMA magazine) had an article not long ago about apples for wildlife. Many of the varieties the author liked are available at St. Lawrence.

[cyberamish]

I went the inexpensive route and got mine from the National Arbor Day Society. If you join (like $5.00) the apple trees are only $8.00 ea. I picked the ones rated for zones 2 & 3 and selected two varieties. I went for one that was an early ripening variety and one that was a late. We have several wild plum and hazelnut bushes around our property already, and I have had real good success with planting sunflowers. I was looking at planting some of the dwarf sunflowers to see if that would bring the sharptail in as well. I have an old sand field meadow that use to be planted in oats years ago that is roughly 4 to 5 acres. So I was looking at trying to disc that up and plant it in a mix of oats and alfalfa on one side and sunflowers on the other. There are some smaller >1/4 acre openings that I was going to plant in pumpkins this year. We have a real nice 40 acr pasture that I would love to disc up but we've been letting the neighbor pasture his young stock out there and I don't want to hassle with fencing part of it off. Bears have been pretty thick up around Cromwell last couple of years (2 were hit on Hwy 73 south of town last fall) but I just don't have the desire to hunt them anymore. Might have to though. Found one denned up during the last weekend of deer season.

[PRWoody]

Have not discussed food plots with you since last fall.

Thought I would give you an update. First, I found out

I screwed up and should have hit the plots with some

potash last fall. Apparently helps for the next growing

season. Had a cat in last fall and opened up another

10+ acres onto the existing 8 acre food plot. We have

it divided by about a 50' band of trees with some

opening between the two plots. It will be interesting

to see if that helps to keep the deer in my area.

Not looking forward to establishing a new crop on the

10 acres, that always seems to be the biggest challenge.

BLB, what are your plans for the spring/summer.

Woody

[Mark Christianson]

Hey Woody!

Well, this spring is gonna be busy again. I have to replant a few plots, and I want to create 2 or 3 more new ones.

I will have a total of 8 plots by this summer I hope.

I little of everything.

MDHA Clover

MDHA Annual blend

MDHA Wildlife blend

Imperial Clover

Chufa(which I planted last year, and it stunk, so it may get replaced)

Big N Beasty Brassicas

Buck Forage Oats that I will be planting actually in late summer

I think thats all I have.

Looking forward to it for sure!

[iffwalleyes]

Lets Bump this back to the top.

I have been following this topic and now I have some questions. First my plots would be in the Detroit Lake MN area what I have to work with are 3 open areas that probably total around 5-7 acres. So I have a few questions.

First I have nothing planted now so I will be starting from scratch this spring. So what do I plant in the spring and what to plant in the fall? I plan on putting in a bunch of the different varietys of clover that have been mentioned. For sure imperial clover and I think I will get some of the MDHA clover as well. I also think I will use some alfa-rack through out the plots. So I assume that there is no problem planting these in the spring. I also plan to use some of the different annual blends that are out there on the market again MDHA and some that cabelas has. Is it ok to plant all of these in the spring? I am planning to get a soil test this weekend. I am planning to use a big tiller to work my area up do you all think that I should spray befor I plant or would that actually hurt what I am planning to put in? Also I see some put in rye and oat later in the season when do you usally plant those? And do you plant it in place of a annual crop that is done producing or do you leave some area open for these when planting everything else? I guess my plan kind of was to get the soil test, work the ground up add the lime accordingly, fertilizer, and seed, drag it in and kick back and hope that it grows maybe fertilize later in the summer. Does that sound about right. Also I was reading that some recommend trimming the clover in August does anyone do that or do you just leave it go for the deer. I all getting pretty excited about get these in. I am going over this weekend to get measurements of my area and soil test so I can get the ball rolling and get my seed ordered and equipment lined up to do the work. Thanks for the help fellas.

[PRWoody]

Iff,

You can plant the perennials in the spring. I will be

planting a new plot this year. What we do 1st is till/plow

up the plot. This year after plowing, I will let the weeds

grow back and hit it with roundup, helps to stop the weeds

from competing with what ever you plant. Then, go back

and till back up. We then add the fertilizer and seed

together and drag the field after spreading. In July

or August we came back and plant the annuals. This may

be a good time to add some fertilizer. When you take your

soil sample, take them from several locations from each

plot.

Good luck!

Woody

[iffwalleyes]

Ok if I till everything up and then let the weeds grow back and spray it and till it again how long will that take? If I do that all this spring what is the latest I can wait to get the clover in and alfalfa in so that it will grow and be a benefit for the season? Say I get everything till by the end of April would I be able to spray by mid May and retill and plant by late may early june will that still grow good enough this year or will it be getting to late? So you guys think I should wait with my annual seeds till July or August?