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About JohnnyC77

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    HotSpotOutdoors.com Family
  • Birthday 04/09/1985

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  • Location:
    Houston County/ Bemidji Area
  1. Ha ha ha, that is a GREAT story!! You are a lucky man my friend!! You should be proud!!\ Johnny C
  2. Along the lines of cheap-skate scent cover ups, there are many ways to go. You can boil acorns and and drain the water as cover scent. You can use pine or ceder boughs on your clothes too instead of scent wafers. Deer themselves also have a few body parts can be used. You can drain the urine from a deer and use it as attractant. Also you can use the tarsnal glad as an attractant. The tarsnal gland is on the back leg where the inside of the "knee" is. Well, that's all I got to babble about for now! Take er easy! Johnny C
  3. Is anyone on here ever done hunt swap or would be interested?? A hunt swap is you come hunt my land, I come hunt yours...you get the idea... Johnny C
  4. JohnnyC77

    Food Plot

    BigLake, the reason you saw a lot of deer before the season and not during could MAYBE be do to the fact that the buck groups of summer disbanded and they headed off to places unknown, or they could be very good and hide-and-go-seek. Also, the one you shot could have been trolling for a mate and just wandered into your sights! Wallter- I really can't say how much a food plot would help for sure yet exactly. After I build one for my mom up by Cook Minnesota and one by my house in Houston, I will be able to tell you better. I do know some generalizations though. You should see a jump in deer numbers and size strictly because there will be more food available for them. First reason being because the does in the area will be better nourished and have healthier fawns. Fawns that have a better chance to grow into big deer. Second reason is the existing deer have to expend less energy for food and won't die of starvation, especially if it is a hard winter. Thirdly, it will draw in deer from other areas that don't contain as much forage!! You MIGHT (and should) see an increase in the size of your deer and racks because of better forage. If you want larger racks though the trick is to plant year round. Try to plant some in the spring and some for later in fall and winter. The fall winter will be the plots that attract deer for the most part and get them through the winter. The spring/summer ones are very important too. They are important because the spring plots will nourish your deer during the growing phases, thus leading to larger bodies and antlers!! As you know, late spring and summer is the critical period for antler growth. Second reason to plant some in the spring is because it keeps deer hanging around all year. This makes for better,easier pre-season scouting and possible imprinting of fawns. I have read (so not for sure) that fawns (especially young bucks) get attached to the place they were raised. I think it has something to do with mother bond, and also the fact they know where the food is. You could also try to plant some native plants that will help the enhance the attraction and health of your plot. Things such as oak trees (white preferred), apple trees, crab apples, gapes, crab apples, small cedar trees, raspberries, and probably much more that I am missing. All of these have a native attraction to deer and a lot of them come about at differing times. These shouldn’t be the main course, but more of an appetizer or side dish. Another thing you could try to plant is either turnips or potatoes. These will really kick in come winter. I have seen people do this and have MANY deer digging down through the snow to get at them. They are high energy also, which really aides those big bucks that survived the rut. Along with the food though, you should also try minerals. Minerals are going to be the easiest part of your plot if you want. At the least, try to throw a salt block or two in opposite corners. They can be the basic cheap kind, but I would recommend some that are formulated for deer. There are even some especially made for antler growth. Some you mix into the dirt and some are just blocks, I don’t think it makes a difference. Obviously you want to but these out at the beginning of the year and just keep replacing them when they get low. I have already said a mouthful, but I just have one more topic to hit on: Food plot style. A lot of people make the mistake of making a giant square, it works to a point, but you get more use out of it when it is a rectangle. If it is a big square, deer tend to hang on the fringes, and over graze the outside edges leaving the middle untouched. Make your food plot in the shape of a rectangle and make a few smaller ones instead of one big one, if you can. If you have no choice and the field is already big, just go for it because it will be alright. I am just saying if you are making some from scratch. Also, make sure the edges have good cover for a safe feel. One last thing, try to leave a few over hanging trees, so the deer have places to do their scraping come fall!! SORRY IT WAS SOO LONG! I apologize if this is way to much info for you!! Pick up this months North Americ. Whitetail, it has something on food plots and machinery! Johnny C
  5. Where would I get a county plat book??? ByThe way- I am comming back on and hoping for a FRESH START , I have decided not to be an @$$ and be polite, kind, helpful, and enjoy this site and benifit from it. I do apologise for me before, that wasn't me really........and I hope for a second chance and not a re-blocking....thanks again for the help! I hope you will accept my apology for my rude behavior before....thanks again!
  6. hey.....I'm being good, I have decided not to be an @$$ and be polite, kind, helpful, and enjoy this site and benifit from it. I do apologise for me before, that wasn't me really........and I hope for a second chance and not a re-blocking....thanks Johnny C
  7. I too agree that a good cover scent goes a LONG way!! I like to either use coon urine or those scent wafers. Remember to match them to your hunting area though. Using a pine scented wafer when there isn't a pine tree for miles MIGHT make them wairy (I am not too sure), but either way you want to make sure to match for the area. Johnny C
  8. JohnnyC77

    Food Plot

    I also saw on some show (Drury Outdoors I THINK) they just used a truck or 4wheeler and drug a wood pallet around to mix up seeds and soil!! So if you are really creative it wouldn't be much of a cost. If you do but stuff like uffda, once you have it you use it forever!!
  9. Hey pete, If you are ever in the area, let me know. I hunt the bluffcountry and you would be more than welcome to stop out!! BUT...you would have to let me touch your deer sometime! haha! Johnny C
  10. Nope, I always love to get as many opinions and helpful pieces of advice as I possible can, they can't hurt. Thank you VERY VERY much for the advice. When I get home this summer I am going to get on that.
  11. Being a tight wad is good though, why spend more money than you have to!! Baking soda should do it, and if you spray on scent killer and use a cover scent (coon urine for example), you shouldn't have a problem. I mean new boots have a smell too....
  12. JohnnyC77

    Food Plot

    You can purchase expensive attachments for a four wheeler or go at it for cheap. The best i have seen is a do-it-aller from Gander for 3000 big ones (so that means that if you went somewhere else it would probabally be close to 2000)I am sure that either at a garage sale or at fleet farm for much less. If you don't want to shell out bucks for an attachment, you can rent/buy a hand tiller which will be A LOT more work, but cheaper. Also you can get your soil tested to see what you have to add to it or fertilize it with. I know that Mossy Oak's foot plot division will test your soil for like $7 and I think there are county agencies taht might do the same thing. That is about all I know for now. Visit different food plot maker's websites, they can be very helpful. GOOD LUCK and keep the questions comming...I love to help people as best I can, and I am pretty sure most other people on this site like to also, and do it very well indeed!! Johnny C
  13. Very NICE but EXPENSIVE...........and how durable are they??? Johnny C
  14. I agree on BOTH counts. Trophy deer management is a "community effort". If you are good and pass up bambi but your neighbor shoots him, it is a lost cause. This is extremely evident on small tracts of land (less than 40 acres) where even bucks in well populated deer heards roam more than 1 property. Wallter hunts 180 acres and might not have to do this, but most of you should talk to your neighbors and see if they will enter into some kind of quality deer management with you, or at least agree not to shoot all the fork horns and small six pointers. I am sure you will have many neighbors that will agree to this, if they know you are managing the herd also it might make them less ansy to shoot a small buck, because they know you won't shoot it either.
  15. Try to hang your stand for the early season VERY EARLY! Like a month to three weeks before hand and then STAY OUT until you hunt it!! That might be part of your problem!
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