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Wheel House frame questions


Chad Holst

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Hey everyone, thanks for looking. I have a few questions. Basically looking for any advice or opinions on building a frame for a wheel house.

My objective is to make it light enough that i can pull it with a jeep Cherokee, not usually to far from home, but maybe 1 trip a year to one of the big lakes up north, depending on how the new program with the Ronald McDonald house goes. (we may try doing an annual trip for a few kids to Upper Red or wherever, for long term patients at Mayo) Anyway, we need it to be able to do a long haul.

It needs to be a sleeper, but small enough for the jeep to pull it. (5,000k tow rating) so we have settled on 8x12. It also needs to sit close to the ice, i dont want a 16 inch drop to the water from the floor.

We have the steel being taken care of by Mcneilus of Dodge Center, so we basically are telling them what steel we need.

So....back to the advice and questions...

I looked at several pictures, houses in person and things on the net and after talking to some house builders it sounds like 3x2 tube steel is the way to go. My first question is do i need/should I use 3x2 tube steel for the whole thing, by my calculations, that would put me at almost 900lb just for the steel frame of the trailer. if i use 3x2 tubing for the main sections and then "grid" the middle sections with 3x2 angle iron, then im at 730 pounds. Is this still over kill? Seems heavy to me, but i dont know what these usually weigh when done professionally.

So let’s start there, then maybe i can ask about the next stage...wheels, witch etc...

When i get home I’ll try to figure out a way to draw out and post my ideas for the frame design, with measurements.

Thanks guys, as always i appreciate this community and the advice you provide!

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I made my own 6.5 x 16 frame for our fish house about 8 years ago. I used 2 x 3 tube 3/16th thick for the whole thing and 3 x 3 for the tongue. It has bounced along many miles of lake ice roads and just as good a shape as day one. My advise is don't skimp on the frame, it is the foundation of your house. I would stay away from angle iron...Also make sure you use big enough shaft for your pivot point...I initially used 1 1/2 inch cold rolled and snapped one..had to resize to I think close to 2 inch...been good ever since...

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I was looking at 3x2 tube that was 1/4...but i see you used 3/16th. Glad to hear that was heavy enough...thats the route i'll take, should really cut down on weight. The angle was simply for some of the "cross members", not so much for structure but a spot to screw flooring to...but with the lighter weight tube i'll do 3x2 everywhere now.

I have not even began to figure out the layout of the house yet, but it looks like i will have a credit of $500-$1000 for additional material from McNeilus, if i need it. What other things could/should i need as far as metal goes? Diamond plate and sheet for the sides i suppose.

Suggestion on thickness of the aluminum diamond plate and the siding?

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+1, The wheel system is an area that needs to be done properly. A week spindle or pivot point is going to give you problems. An ice house takes a lot of abuse on the lake.

On your credit with Mcneilius, the aluminum sheets for siding and diamond tread plate will eat up a $1000 pretty quick.

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As far as I know everybody is doing their frames out of 1/8" steel. For that size house I'd want to see 2x4x1/8. The 8x12 in my 2010 build was made out of 2x5x1/8. When it is welded make sure your 4' plywood seams will end up on a support.

Stay away from any angle. Trust me. Trust all those who have built before you, including Ice Castle. They no longer use angle iron in any of their frames. If they felt they could skimp there they would.

Your finished weight will be about 2500-2750#.

Use .040 aluminum for siding and .063 for diamond plate.

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It looks like you may be getting the steel donated? If so, go with it. If I misread the comment on getting the steel free I would say from a weight perspective I really prefer an aluminum frame. Not only is it a lot lighter, but also you don't deal with all of the rust, etc. that you do on a steel frame.

More importantly, I like that you are looking to help out some of the Ronald McDonald house kids with a trip up to one of the big fishing lakes. I have an 8.5'x 22' wheel house up on Lake of the Woods and would love to help out if you need any. Just shoot me some details on what you are looking to do and we'll see what we can do.

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Also make sure you use big enough shaft for your pivot point...I initially used 1 1/2 inch cold rolled and snapped one..had to resize to I think close to 2 inch...been good ever since...

I'm curious as to how you had your shaft set up. Did you run a single shaft all the way through the frame or was it stub welded to the outside of the frame. Also, if you don't mind answering, where did it break?

I'm asking because around 10 years ago I built my 6 x 10 and the shaft I used is 1" cold rolled and heat treated. I ran mine all the way through the frame as one solid shaft. Haven't had a problem.......yet. I agree to go total beefey and strong with the frame and pivots. I'm guessing I have not had any problems because my house it pretty light. Other than the frame, it's all aluminum, including the studs and rafters. It's fairly light.

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Thanks for the input guys! keep it up...there are going to be lots of things to work on.

Yes, the steel is being "donated" sort of. long story short, my employer (a Bank) wanted to sponsor us. We sold our building and are now renting from the owner until we find a new location to build. Rather than do cash, they let me have all of the office furniture on 1 floor we moved out of, and alot of stuff in storage in the basement.To sell to get more funds than we would have gotten in cash. That included our old vault that has aprox 25k pounds of steal...in the form of 3500 safe boxes in 500-1200lbs pods. No one really knew, until they dug in, how much these things weighed and how much there really was in the vault...so i called McNeilus and they agreed to pick it up and give us XX per pound. After everything was said and done, the manager that ran the operation of clearing these out said "tell us what you need, and we will make it happen". So yes, i have all the material donated, but im also aware that at .07-.08 a pound i wouldnt have been able to get all the diamond plate, frame steel and wall aluminum sheets, so i dont want to push it. I am simply grateful for there generousity already.

IF ANYONE NEEDS STEEL, GO TO McNeilus! Please thank them for helping out our organization.

They already cut the steel for the tubing and its ready to pick up. (BTW, if there is anyone in the rochester area that could haul it to rochester...give me a PM) We have a small trailer, but it wont work for the pieces that are 12 feet long.

We went with 3x2 3/16 thick, per the above posters suggestion. However its pretty beefy compaired to what i saw under the shacks i crawled under today at universal marine in rochester. They used the same 3 x 2, but not gridded out as much as we plan. (im going to post the frame design here, when i get it on some type of digital media)

He actually asked if we wanted to do it with aluminum, but i decided to go with steel, then we are getting it treated and rhino lined by "Midwest custom concepts". (thanks brian and Aaron and the boys) They are also doing all the lights and wiring. LED.

So...my main project right now is the wheel system. I worked with a guy from Northern tool and supply. Heres the shoping list we built, didnt buy it yet before running by you guys:

Actually, on second thought..im going to post this message and edit it with a link to a "build thread". Thank everyone.

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I ran the shaft through the frame on each side and then welded it on the inside and outside of the frame. Essentially 2 stub shafts, but NOT simply welded to the outside, but ran through the width of the frame. It snapped flush with the outside edge of the frame...I did hit a couple NASTY heaves in the road a couple miles before I noticed it, so I am blaming the bad road.. grin

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