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I-Link Usage How-To Question


Kyhl

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Starting a new thread meant to be instructional rather than muddy up another.

Those that have used or plan to use the I-Link to "put more fish in the boat," can you explain how that works?

I posted elsewhere that I almost never follow a straight contour when using the electric motor. I mostly fish humps, piles, flats, basins, plateaus, holes, inside turns and points (outside turns), sometimes weedlines but not very often.

My favorite thing is to find a hump, pile, or break that is not on a map.

Of all of those situations I can sometimes see where following a contour may help in the weedline category. Most of the time I am crisscrossing over under and around all of the spots and varying my depths.

For those that plan to use an I-Link, how do you fish? I am being honest here trying to learn a better way to use a new tool.

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Pulling spinner rigs and lindys on a drop off. Hopefully the accuracy is good enough to do such things.

So I understand, are you describing, following the edge of the slope, give or take a few feet?

By saying that, are you staying at the same or close to the same depth for the entire pass?

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One thing a few of the FMers are missing is that there are people that fish lakes bigger than 1500 acres. Following a contour line on a small lake may not be a big deal, but those that fish large water (LOW, Green Bay, Mille Lacs, Oahe, etc.), some of those contour lines go for miles and mile, and that is the depth the fish are at.

Another thing the I-link can do, and this works great for bass and musky guys, as well as small lake walleye gys is if you have a couple of waypoints on a particular piece of structure, you can just tell it to take you to the next waypoint. Set up your own milk run if you want to call it that, and do it hands and feet free.

You can do the same thing by recording your own trail, but by using the waypoints you can basically store hundreds of trails.

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I like to roam around at different depths too. For example zig zagging over the top of hump a

then fall off the sides and get back on (and repeat the length of the hump).

Now lets say a pattern developes and I start to pick up some fish in 18-20 fow on the breaking edge of the hump.

It's time to set the Bird to follow the 19' contour. Proceed by doing hot laps until I'm out of bait grin All the while being focused 95% on fishing and 5% on boat control, not 50/50.....

Another plan is if I am motoring along and the side imaging picks up a pod of fish. Scroll over and mark a waypoint, then tell the terrova to bring me there. Once there hit the electronic anchor and work those specific fish.

This is plan anyway laugh LOL How well the plan will work out is yet to be determined......

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"Another plan is if I am motoring along and the side imaging picks up a pod of fish. Scroll over and mark a waypoint, then tell the terrova to bring me there. Once there hit the electronic anchor and work those specific fish."

This/\ /\

is exactly why I purchased a new 1198, and a New Terrova with the Link.

I have no doubt that there will be times that follow the contour will work for me also, but if that wouldve been the only feature, I wouldve passed for now.

I also purchased the 1198, because my 997 and 1197 were quickly becoming out dated. Not because of their performance, but because of the processor speed needed to read the LakeMaster maps which were new to me last year... My 997 and 1197 just couldnt keep up anymore..

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Now lets say a pattern developes and I start to pick up some fish in 18-20 fow on the breaking edge of the hump.

It's time to set the Bird to follow the 19' contour. Proceed by doing hot laps until I'm out of bait grin All the while being focused 95% on fishing and 5% on boat control, not 50/50.....

Another plan is if I am motoring along and the side imaging picks up a pod of fish. Scroll over and mark a waypoint, then tell the terrova to bring me there. Once there hit the electronic anchor and work those specific fish.

This is plan anyway laugh LOL How well the plan will work out is yet to be determined......

Those are interesting scenarios.

The first point about zeroing in on a specific depth pattern had crossed my mind. I'm not sure how often that happens to me to make that worth the purchase for me.

Your second scenario happens quite a bit and I can see that being useful. I've also driven to the side imaged spot manually many times only to find the fish have continuted to move away. They can be sneaky fast. laugh

And I do fish Red, ML, and Vermilion. Haven't hit LOW yet. Most of the time that I am following a contour it is under the gas motor pulling cranks or spinner rigs at speeds that would empty my trolling motor batteries too quickly.

In my experience Red and ML are flat, basin, and weedline lakes. Those don't need contour following IMO.

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"I've also driven to the side imaged spot manually many times only to find the fish have continuted to move away. They can be sneaky fast."

You are so very correct. They dont have to move very far to escape the range needed to see fish effectively.

If there ever was a need for 360, it would allow you to tail those fish, or at least know the general direction they were heading.. Now, that doesnt mean that another school of fish wont be along shortly in the same position at the first batch, either.. Theres a fine line between waiting them out, or getting on your horse and tracking them down.. I may be wrong, but I kind of think of schools of fish, like flocks of geese. Ever notice how, under certain conditions, every flock flies out to feed on literally the same path, even when the flocks are spread out far enough that they cant see each other.. Or look at it like this.. Ever notice how everyone follows the same line to the buffet table grin

It doesnt take a $2700 piece of hardware (1198) to run the Link system.

A 788 HD is the minimum I believe, which can be had for around $600. The cost of the IPilot Link is what it is, if you want that technology.

If you dont think that "follow the contour" interest you, then dont buy the LakeMaster chip.. its as simple as that. There are alot of improved features to the new Link that work without the Lakemaster chip.

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You got it! A lot of the lakes I fish are typically bowl shaped with shore line breaks. Most of my time is spent making 1/2 mile passes at the bottom of the break, and the return pass a little higher up the break. Some of these breaks can get rather steep, and I doubt the ilink will keep me at the exact depth, but if it can keep me on the break, I'm happy. To much time is wasted checking the map and adjusting the TM. Throw in a little wind and all attention is focused on staying on a depth line. If the motor can do it for me....GREAT! Im not expecting perfection, as I could never do all of it, perfectly either.

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Most of the time that I am following a contour it is under the gas motor pulling cranks or spinner rigs at speeds that would empty my trolling motor batteries too quickly.

Use your TM for steering on a lower setting and your main for the speed. In windy conditions i turn on my main and steer the boat with my TM for battery usage reduction.

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Use your TM for steering on a lower setting and your main for the speed. In windy conditions i turn on my main and steer the boat with my TM for battery usage reduction.

I will do that on calm days too where I can stand on the rear deck and steer with the trolling motor remote when under power of the main motor. Makes for big wide turns. laugh

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