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Strikemaster Lazer PRO Drilling Problem After Blade Switch


MidCoast

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I have a Strikemaster SOLO Lazer Pro 10 inch drill bit. I have had it for 4 or 5 years now. I finally just changed the Lazer Blades on it as my initial Lazer Blades were getting dull.

After making the switch to new blades, I noticed my auger was not drilling as it should be. What I mean is for example, if I were to drill, and right before it reaches the bottom of the ice, lift my auger up a little and put it back down, the blades would have a hard time gripping into the ice. The auger then would just spin and spin without cutting anything. Unless I really put downward pressure on it, then it would cut the rest of the ice very slowly until it breaks through the ice. Even with my blades right before I changed them, it was not having this problem.

I remember when I first got my Strikemaster. It cut through the ice like a hot knife cutting butter. I would think with new blades, even though my auger is 4 to 5 years old, it still should cut through the ice like a hot knife cutting butter right? Well, even when I drill without lifting my auger up before it reaches the bottom of the ice, it still hesitates to cut as it gets towards the middle to the bottom of the ice.

My question is, is it my Lazer Blades, the pitch, or that one center point blade?

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I thought I needed to change my blades about a month ago and had the same results. I called Strikemaster and they said the pitch on the end could possibly be out.

I took it to StrikeMaster and they noticed right away that one of the round gussets that hold the pitch on the cutting end, one of the gussets had let loose by the weld. They set the pitch for me and I took it home and welded it back solid.

They would have welded it for me but they did not have a welder there at the time.

That cured my cutting issues 100%.

Not saying that is your issue but look at the bottom of the cutting end of the auger and you should see 2 round rods that are welded on ech side of the shaft by the flighting.

One could have broke, which can be welded or the pitch could also be off a tad and that would make your auger cut like that.

Strikemater's repair center is in either Edine or Mpls address. May be worth a call to them as they could more than likely trouble shoot your issue over the phone.

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This may sound stupid but did you check to see if the blades were installed correctly? IE - not upside down or anything?

I don't think it was upside down. I made sure I could see the writing on the blades after installment.

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I thought I needed to change my blades about a month ago and had the same results. I called Strikemaster and they said the pitch on the end could possibly be out.

I took it to StrikeMaster and they noticed right away that one of the round gussets that hold the pitch on the cutting end, one of the gussets had let loose by the weld. They set the pitch for me and I took it home and welded it back solid.

They would have welded it for me but they did not have a welder there at the time.

That cured my cutting issues 100%.

Not saying that is your issue but look at the bottom of the cutting end of the auger and you should see 2 round rods that are welded on ech side of the shaft by the flighting.

One could have broke, which can be welded or the pitch could also be off a tad and that would make your auger cut like that.

Strikemater's repair center is in either Edine or Mpls address. May be worth a call to them as they could more than likely trouble shoot your issue over the phone.

Harvey, how much did it cost for Strikemaster to adjust the pitch?

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Sounds to me like it may be the pitch too. Not sure where you live, but there is a place called D-rock in New Brighton that can probably adjust the pitch if it isn't too far out of whack.

I came across the same issue on my 10" lazer auger drill unit and was told that it is fairly common on the 10" units and less common on the 8" units. I think it only cost me about $20 or less to get the pitch fixed. Also, be sure you do not try to re-open any old holes with the lazer units because that will definitely ruin the pitch. (Use a chipper drill for that.)

I have since purchased an 8" drill unit and I like it much better than the old 10" drill. The auger is much lighter and drills holes quite a bit faster. (Also helps keep the younger ones legs out of the holes a little better.)

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Calling it a pitch issue may be over exaggeration. I bet if you slap on another set of new blades it would cut just fine. If it was cutting fine before and when you put on the new blades theres no reason to think this is pitch issue. I have brought my lazer drill bit to have the pitch check twice now when swapping new blades only to be told the pitch is good. In part my last new blade set only got me 30+ holes and now I have to use minimal down pressure to cut to where good new blades you dont need any pressure at all. In my frustration I carry an adapted 8" Eskimo quantum drill to bolt up to my Solo when needed or think I may be on an body of water that have dirty ice.

There's only a couple scenarios here but try the steps below. The other thing to is you may have dulled the blades by drilling in dirty ice. This is why I have no faith in lazer blades. They will look sharp as heck and even under a microscope and wont cut. The smallest micro knick will give you issues even though its razor sharp still.

1. Try new or different good blades

2. Loosen the blades bolt that hold them, overtightening will cause them to be off. Tight them down only to where it feel secure.

3. Try another drill bit with those same blades

4. Get the powerhead check out

5. Get the pitch checked on the drill bit

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First off even though you put new blades on it only takes one goof to put a tiny nick in the blade. I had to say that.

Just for the heck out it. Loosen the mounting bolts. Then snug up but don't tighten the inside bolt. With your fingers pinch the blade to the mount at the outside location of the outer bolt. Is there a gap between the blade and mount on the outside of the blade?

Now do the same with your old blades. Do you notice that there isn't a gap between the blade and mount?

Whats going on is either the pitch is off on the blade or mount. Or you have a small ding on the outside edge of one or both blades. That outside edge of the blade has a step behind it. That controls how much bite the blade has. Well so does the pitch of the on the mount but were talking about a punching through problem.

In the mean time PM to to make arrangements to send me your old blades. (pro bono)

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Midcoast, StrikeMaster does not charge you to check the pitch.

Fisherman Andy, all I did was change my blades and I did have a pitch issue, it can happen. I agree you will more than likely not knock the pitch out just changing the blades but that have been the cause for new blades.

I would agree with Frank, either a pitch issue or a nicked blade.

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Midcoast, StrikeMaster does not charge you to check the pitch.

Fisherman Andy, all I did was change my blades and I did have a pitch issue, it can happen. I agree you will more than likely not knock the pitch out just changing the blades but that have been the cause for new blades.

I would agree with Frank, either a pitch issue or a nicked blade.

As I recall your drill bit had damaged that was noticed after changing the blades. I dont deny that the part that its possible changing blades can lead to pitch issues. You cant visually inspect the pitch but you can for damage or ding issues on the drill.

However what I said was I had felt it was unlikely as to reason why I had suggested swapping blades again to see if issue persisted.

My suspicion is the new blades were dulled by cutting bad or dirty ice.

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Exactly my point, he could have a pitch issue and after changing the blades, he could still have one.

Exactly the reason why I dont have complete faith in the reliability of lazer blades. I will now only re-sharpen my lazer blades now and not buy new unless I have two. They dull way too easy and cost way too much.

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