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Lead core question


Chumba

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I am running 6-7' leader of 14/6 Fireline Fused Crystal with a #12 swivel. I run the short leader so I don't usually pull the swivel into the rod guides. I had a pretty decent day on Mille Lacs Sunday, boating 10 between me and a buddy over 6 hours or so all on this setup.

I can't stand running mono or flourcarbon for a leader, especially 30' of it. Tried flouro and lost all sensitivity to the lure, as did my buddy on a different rod. I'm not sure how people do it, unless my rod just isn't sensitive enough.

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Is having stretch in the leader line not that important? I am headed to lake vermillion and some of the areas I know are very rocky. i was mostly worried about snags and having the stretch to absorb. But I have noticed it can be difficult to tell if the lure is running right or fowled. is it a better trade off to the sensitivity?

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Stretch in the line would be important if say, you are using a broomstick for a rod. My leadcore rods have alot of give in the upper half to make up for the lack of line stretch, yet they have a very solid backbone so big fish are not overpowering the rod.

There are some very good leadcore rods on the market now that take the lack of stretch into consideration. Something to think about.

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My opinion (and granted I am new to this), but I see no need to have line stretch for any reason on this setup. Snag a rock, line just starts going out from the reel and the rod absorbs the initial ding...no issue there. Like mentioned, the rod you use should have some give along with reel drag. Also, I'm not sure how others do it but I set my drag fairly light (just enough to keep the line from pulling out and reel from clicking).....and dial it tighter after I have the rod in my hand when a fish is on.

At this point I want a swivel to keep line from twisting in the event a crank gets fowled. It happened a few weeks ago to a buddies setup...so it does happen.

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Guess i haven't ran into the twisted line dilema...Though i could see you respooling a reel because of it!!

I got rid of the swivel so i can go to a longer leader.

Also, leadcore will bow in the water, so some shock absorbtion happens when the line straightens out. The rest is absorbed in the rod and drag. For best sensitivity, go with the new suffix leadcore line as it is much thinner diameter than older brands. I'm not worried about switching this year, but i will next.

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Wouldnt a swivel on the snap connecting the lure do the same thing? or is there a good reason to only use a snap and no swivel there?

Most people (myself included) don't use a snap/swivel at the crank. It's to heavy and kills the action. Most people (myself included) use just a duo-lock type snap. Another benifit of running the swivel upstream of the lure is that it allows some of the junk and spiny waterfleas to be captured 10' infront of the lure, instead of on the lure. Run a small #10 or 12 swivel between the lead and the leader instead. It will fit thru the front eye and it gives you an audable indication of when you are getting close. This is a nice feature at night or when there is lots going on in the boat.

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I'm new to lead core fishing. My question is.... if people say they run 4 colors, is it 4 colors off the spool? Or 4 colors off the end of the rod? or the 4th color just hitting the water?

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That means 4 colors is all that is on the reel. Leadcore does not do well rubbing on rod tips or in releases. You will be disappointed if you try leaving the leadcore at the rod tip or in a release.

Some guys will do segments like 3 colors then mono for 50 ft then 4 colors and then mono- that way then can let out 3 colors and clip on the mono on a board etc..

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Tip-line and type is all about what works, 30ft of mono for me works day in and day out on Mille Lacs but on other bodies of water you can get away with 10ft of super line, heck I know guys down on the river using 6ft leads and they have no problems catching fish, now try that up here and I guaranty over the long run you will see the guys running 20+ leads putting more fish in the boat. Two big bonus with using a swivel for me is it makes changing out tip line so fast and EZ, no need to strip out more lead and 5-7 inch perch that spin 100+ times before you get them in the boat. Really there is no right or wrong tip line type or length, go with what works for your rod action and body of water.

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Tip-line and type is all about what works, 30ft of mono for me works day in and day out on Mille Lacs

Are you able to sense any action on your lures with this setup, or do you check your lure often? It was impossible for us on two different rods with 30' flouro, and I had multiple time this last weekend on Mille Lacs where I picked up a blade of grass or something and was able to tell by how the lure felt (using the Fireline crystal). The 6-7' did not seem to hinder us at all last weekend (maybe it did and we didn't know it), but in the long run it would be interesting to see.

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I tell just by pulling the rod forward 2-3 ft with small baits, every 5-10 minutes. Also I use graphite rods not fiberglass, IMO it's way to hard to tell action/fouled lure with glass rods. I can actually see lure action in the rod holder with anything over #5 shadrap, Reef Runners or Thundersticks, it's slight but it's there.

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I tell just by pulling the rod forward 2-3 ft with small baits, every 5-10 minutes. Also I use graphite rods not fiberglass, IMO it's way to hard to tell action/fouled lure with glass rods. I can actually see lure action in the rod holder with anything over #5 shadrap, Reef Runners or Thundersticks, it's slight but it's there.

Interesting, I do the same by pulling a few feet forward.. I am using a graphite Daiwa Heartland 8'6" trolling rod and with a 30' flouro leader could not feel any action on a #5 or #7 shad rap when holding in hand. In the holder it's often a no go because of boat vibration with those lures. I can feel everything with the superline leader though.....which personally works for me.

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