Metal Framing

[Lip_Ripper Guy]

Does anyone have pictures/tips of how they use metal studs for framing their fish house? I am considering it, but have never used them before.

The one big problem I can see is that screws won't work on the outside of the stud, as the heads will get in the way of the flat aluminum siding. Do those stud punches work? How about flat rivets?

I envision using 1 5/8" for the walls, with 3 5/8" for the corners, and around the door and windows, and the roof.

Any thoughts would be appreciated!

[rbs]

Weird you post this as I was at Menards the other day and was trying to envision the same thing!

[Lip_Ripper Guy]

I'm sure it can be done, I just have to try to visualize, which is tough since I've never worked with the stuff.

Here is how I think it can be done (bottom to top):

-1 5/8" track screwed through floor plywood into frame

-1 5/8" wall studs with the open part of the 'C' to the wall cavity

-1 5/8" track at the top

-3 5/8" track runs lengthwise (on end), and is screwed into the 1 5/8" track

-3 5/8" 8' studs connect the sidewalls

-1/2" plywood furring strips perpendicular to all studs

I don't know that 3 5/8" will work at the windows and corners. You'll end up without an attachment point for either interior or exterior finishings. You *might* be able to screw a 1 5/8" stud inside a 3 5/8" stud to get around that problem, but I don't know for sure yet. Other option would be to screw a wood 2x2 in there, but I don't really care for that option.

Other dilemma is created at the corners of the V front, since you can't rip metal studs at an angle like with wood.

[cavalierowner]

Here is a link to ClarkDietrich's typical details for metal wall framing http://cad.clarkdietrich.com/?p=Nonstructural%20Framing They can at least get you started in the right direction. Be sure to watch the gage of metal studs. I seem to remember that Menards had the 25 ga. studs and IMHO that would be too light for the walls. They work fine for partitions in buildings, probably not so much for fish house walls. I would suggest at least 20 gage or heavier. You can get the heavier studs at the commercial drywall suppliers.

[Mid-Lake Rock]

I'm sure it can be done, I just have to try to visualize, which is tough since I've never worked with the stuff.

Here is how I think it can be done (bottom to top):

-1 5/8" track screwed through floor plywood into frame

-1 5/8" wall studs with the open part of the 'C' to the wall cavity

-1 5/8" track at the top

-3 5/8" track runs lengthwise (on end), and is screwed into the 1 5/8" track

-3 5/8" 8' studs connect the sidewalls

-1/2" plywood furring strips perpendicular to all studs

I don't know that 3 5/8" will work at the windows and corners. You'll end up without an attachment point for either interior or exterior finishings. You *might* be able to screw a 1 5/8" stud inside a 3 5/8" stud to get around that problem, but I don't know for sure yet. Other option would be to screw a wood 2x2 in there, but I don't really care for that option.

Other dilemma is created at the corners of the V front, since you can't rip metal studs at an angle like with wood.

I framed mine with metal. What you are describing is basically what I did. With regard to the screws on the outside, I put them in during framing then pulled them out when putting up the aluminum. The combination of PL, VHB tape and spray foam keeps them in place. With regard to the corners of the V, it is very difficult to get a flush corner like wood. I got it as close as possible and butted up the aluminum siding to finish off the corner. Filled the "gap" with spray foam and then finished it off by bolting diamond plate at the corners. You will want furring strips for the interior. I also put 2x2s in the channel of the metal at areas where I was anchoring things like bunks.

Overall, it worked well. Make sure you have a chop saw for all the cutting that will be done. I bought a cheap one and it worked fine. Another tip is to purchase all the studs and track at a sheet rock supply store. Better quality than the stuff you find at the big box retailers. I've got some pics somewhere. I will see if I can find them.

[Mid-Lake Rock]

Ripper - I found one photo of the metal studs partially done. For the roof, we turned the tracks on the sides and ran the studs across the top. One other thing I did to cut weight was have aluminum siding cut to size and attached to the studs on the roof, then covered with the rubber roof. This shaved a few pounds from plywood and I don't need to worry about the wood rotting. The spray foam on the ceiling made it nice and firm. Sorry I don't have more pictures. Hope this helps with figuring out the corners at the V. I've also included a picture of the exterior when it was nearly completed.

[SleeperOz]

Lip Ripper......Why the change to metal studs? Your last house was constructed out of wood and turned out near perfect. One of the nicest houses I have seen built. With the weight of the metal and interior wood (anti frost) furring strips, will you really save on weight? Just curious. I used many of your "ideas" in my last build.

[Lip_Ripper Guy]

The metal studs will weigh around 225-250 pounds including furring strips, wood is probably 600 pounds. There's a lot of benefits:

-Much less cold transfer. Wood is a poor insulator, and instead of a 1.5"x7' cold spot with each stud, it will be minimized to about a 1.5"x1" at each furring strip after spray foaming over the face of the metal studs.

-No need to rip studs

-No rot issues

-Straighter material

-Lighter

-3M tape will work great on metal to metal, vs trying to keep the glue sticking at each stud (faster)

-Studs have wire channels pre-drilled

I am actually leaning more towards welding 18 gauge 1"x2" tubing right now. I don't have to make the decisions right now, but pretty soon.

[Mid-Lake Rock]

I am actually leaning more towards welding 18 gauge 1"x2" tubing right now. I don't have to make the decisions right now, but pretty soon.

I had a friend do that that with aluminum and it turned out great.

[Lip_Ripper Guy]

Originally I would have loved to do aluminum, but the cost is $1750 (1x2x1/8), compared to $575 for steel (1x2x18ga). The weight savings is under 50 pounds.