Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Jiffy Pro 4: Replacing fuel line; is it easy?


CHEX1982

Recommended Posts

Replacement fuel line on its way, ETA is Wednesday.

How easy/hard is the process as well as the time required? Because I'd like to use it this weekend. I imagine it as a quick swap much like changing out a tire?

I have the tools to take apart the fuel line, propane tube, and the regulator off the engine block. I just don't want to cause more headache than already is.

The Jiffy rep on the phone was very casual and says that anyone can do it at home but I still had him locate me some service centers. Forest Lake (Boese's) is the nearest. That's not really near for me and I'd rather do it myself if I can. Plus, I'm sure they'd charge me for work.

Opinions from those who are mechanics or have experience with the Pro 4 fuel line?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have a 2010 model they have an aluminum line from the regualtor to the carb that is very soft and thin. In a short amount of time of changing out the 1lb. propane cylinder you will weaken this line causing it to break and leave you without an auger (which it happened to me)or possibly worse with a propane leak in a wheel house. Jiffy will only send you a replacement line that is a little heavier gauge aluminum, but keep in mind that this is only a bandaid, It will not fix it permantely!!!! I did replace my line last night and the auger seems to run fine at this time however, it is just a matter of time before it fails, you can count on that!

With that said I am going to be in contact with Jiffy again to push for the retro carb fit that they have installed on the 2011-2012 models. To me this is an issue that they need to address in the proper manner which they have not.

The simple fact of the matter is that they knew they had a problem and that is why they changed the design after the first year but for all of you "Loyal Jiffy" guys like me who were the first to buy the defective auger , they will not do the right thing and either replace the head unit or send you the retro fit for the carb to make it like the new design.

Shame on you Jiffy!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for browsing back a few pages to reply. The same evening I received the replacement tube and two elbow fittings, I could not get the elbow fitting on the regulator to move! I wrenched it, hammered it, it was all scarred up and didn't budge 1 millimeter. Yes, I believe I was following the threads correctly, as the other elbow on top of the engine block is right-handed and could be loosened with just fingers. I brought it to an authorized repair center, free of charge. It just sucks having to wait when I know I could do the work within a few hours if even.

In my opinion, I think the old fuel line broke because it was welded/flared/inserted into the elbow fitting and as you said, it is softer. To my eyes, the new style has the brass compression ring in the fitting screw to hold the fuel line in place so it simply doesn't have a point where it can break off.

It appears the new 2011 models have the same fuel lines that you and I recently received. I think the only thing they have different is that the regulator and the black rubber hose was re-engineered to be in a different position to save some space, have a cleaner look, and makes it a tad easier to screw in propane bottles.

Yes, I agree with you. Shame on them. They should at least do something like those "WARNING TOY/FURNITURE RECALL - IF YOU BOUGHT THIS MODEL, CONTACT US BRING TO LOCAL SHOP IMMEDIATELY" and put big signs all over fishing gear shops so the public can see.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
    • Or he could go with leech~~~~~
    • Bear can relate too. Tell Leech to start a new account named Leech5, we'll know who he is.If he has any trouble, Bear can walk him through it.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.