Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Issue with poles in Eskimo Fatfish 949i.....Pics Included


Mike Stark

Recommended Posts

I have been using a Eskimo Quickfish 3 for a couple of years. I had some problems with the hubs until I lubricated the inside of the hubs with Vaseline. Easy to do by removing the allen wrench screw (when the tent is collapsed) removing the round coverplate and exposing the insides of the hub. I applied a small amount of Vaseline to the ball joint type attachment at the hub end of the support rods. This little bit of lubrication makes the hub work smoother than the metal on metal joints. Hope this will help for the Fatfish shelter also. In heavy winds I always secure the upwind hub with a rope and ice anchor. No more problems with the shelter sides collapsing inward.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The Fatfish is a different monster with some unique challenges than the proven Quickfish models.

It's clear the the hub panels popping in all too often on the Fatfish units is a result of a design flaw... there needs to be a revision on this house and I am sure it will be much better.

The solution isn't to tie down each panel and anchor all around.. or pack the hubs with some form of lubricant.. perhaps to refabricate a different kind of hub that utilizes different materials... instead it should be to demand a better designed or manufactured house that can withstand reasonable conditions without the end user having to modify the poles or any other such thing..

If the poles were of the correct size, length, or grade material... if the hubs were designed to have a wider degree of rotation or designed to not have binding areas.. then most of the issues would be non-existent from the get go.

In my most recent experience.... in some very cold conditions I might say but isn't this exactly why you need and bought a shelter in the first place? To protect you from the elements during the season of cold, snow and wind?... with one of this years double hub non-insulated production houses.. a brand new unit with it's first time out on the ice... upon struggling to get the unit finally popped open... I notice that the shelter was not square.. it was twisted beyond anything that would be considered acceptable.. the bars were an "S" shape and even some were bowing in rather than out.. the house looked like a clam shell and almost ball-like and had very little fishable area unless you went out and pulled out and staked not only the corners but also the center panels.. my point here is that it does not appear to be fuctioning as designed or expected.. and it would not make any sense for me to always have to pull the house and stretch it and stake it every time in order to use it in the outdoors.

Now.. if you take the house indoors and set it up in the basement and heat the tent up and warm up the bars.. then the house relaxes and fabric becomes pliable and will stretch and the house then looks more normal and will even look to have the space that you expected it to have... but what good is it.. if that only happens in a heated indoor room or garage?

That is poor quality and a product that does not meet it's intended purpose... and it shouldn't be the end user's job to figure a way to be able to use fix it in order to use it.

Demand a better product.. for your money.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
    • Or he could go with leech~~~~~
    • Bear can relate too. Tell Leech to start a new account named Leech5, we'll know who he is.If he has any trouble, Bear can walk him through it.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.