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Strikemaster Pro Lazer- Break In???

Rebel9921

By Rebel9921
in Ice Fishing

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Rebel9921 Mentor

Rebel9921

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I purchased a brand new Strikemaster Pro Lazer yesterday...

I have read the manual few times... scoured all over the forum today... with so much info on ice augers... I couldnt really find any info on breaking it in properly...

Now what I really need to know is the Fuel Mixture ratio for properly breaking it in... I did buy 8oz bottle of Amsoil Sabre Pro too... but have seen via other forums saying that I should be using Strikemaster Oil for the first 1-2 tanks??? Pretty much I would rather start off using the same oil from the start...

I would like to know the proper break-in Fuel Mixture ratio using the Amsoil Sabre Pro... and also would like to know how much oz per gallon for 40:1, 60:1, 80:1...

Is there any specific trick anybody here does for measuring out specific oz??? I notice that several preferred the pillow packets but am sure there are some tricks that hasnt been mentioned...

Many thanks!!!

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Rebel9921 Mentor

Rebel9921

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Only two replies at this posting which really surprised me...

It also forced me to do more extensive searching at other forums... and finally came up with an definite solution to this...

According to Strikemaster HSOforum, Strikemaster and Solo highly recommends that you break your new auger in using between 40:1 to 50:1 fuel mixture ratio... Strikemaster also stated that the warranty will still be good AS LONG YOU STAY BELOW 50:1 ratio regardless whether its non-synthetic or synthetic you used... So go ahead, break in your brand new Strikemaster Solo with Amsoil...

Having found this... It'll be safe to just run your new auger at between 40:1 to 50:1 until the warranty expires then feel free to bump up the ratio mixture...

40:1 ratio consists of 3.2oz of oil to a gallon of gas...

50:1 ratio consists of 2.6oz of oil to a gallon of gas...

I decided to go towards the 50:1 ratio using Amsoil Sabre Pro and my new auger fired up... minimal smoke if any but the smell sure was sweet!!! I probably will stay with the 50:1 ratio til next year then maybe bump it up to 65:1...

Also, having using a friend's Lazer Mag (2.5hp) last year, I definitely can state that the Lazer Pro definitely has more power/torque... Not sure and dont know if I will ever find out if its that extra .5HP or Amsoil at work!!! But I did notice the motor running smoother, throwing out bit more power/torque after 15 minutes of minimal use (throttling, turning off then starting again few times)...

Hope this post will help whole lot... It would be nice if someone pinned break-in topic to the top of the ice fishing forum for newbies...

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Notcho Enthusiast

Notcho

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No offense, but your extensive research should have been a call to strikemaster. They are more than helpful.

I bought a pro lazer last year and ran Saber 100:1 from the start with no problems. Forgot how many tanks I ran threw already, yes I know it's not warranted If it blows (which I doubt).

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RebelSS Grand Master

RebelSS

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After rebuilding/tearing apart engines since 1971, I cannot for the life of me understand why everyone wants to "bump up" the gas to oil ratio in their engines!!!! What do you think you are going to gain?!

A specific oil to fuel ratio is established in direct correlation to the specified engine that it is to be run in, taking into account ring/piston clearances, aluminum/cast iron/sleeve/head type or thickness, RPM's, head temps, etc. The manufactures have their specified ratios FOR A REASON!!!! In the simplest of terms, a two-cycle engine depends on a certain amount of given lubrication mixed with the oil to provide BASIC piston/ring lubrication between the cylinder walls and rings to prevent scoring/seizing. A 4 cycle engine provides this via "splash-up" technology in most small engines, and with different types of sealing rings. (To prevent oil migration into the combustion chamber) Leaning out your mixture will gain you NOTHING. A little less smoke, sure! And it WILL gain in RPM"s..just before the damage is done.I tear all these engines apart, and see nothing but scored walls with a "lean-burn" condition. Ever see a Pro-stock or Fuelie funny car blow an engine halfway down the track? Most are attributed to a lean-burn...seizing the piston in the cylinder walls. Sure, they're 4 cycle, but it's the same thing. I raced and built Yamaha bikes for years...and scored plenty of jugs...but never seized one. Down the road, when your auger starts to lose power and run rough, don't wonder why. You can keep bringing them to me...I'll bill ya accordingly. I'm just trying to save someone a large repair bill...use the ratio your manufacturer recommends..I don't care how great your oil is...the ratio is recommended for a REASON. My 2 cents worth. Believe what you will. To each his own.

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RebelSS Grand Master

RebelSS

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icekid 10: No, I didn't. I'm trying to get away from all the engine repairs I've done for so many years...mostly do it just for friends now...because there ARE so many issues with todays gas. I always ran a mid-grade gas in my small engines before the gas really started to get bad years ago. Some engines did seem to run a little better with the premium, but remenber, there is actually more "energy" produced in the lower octane than in premium without going into great detail here. The only engines I DO put premium in are boat engines, but that's a whole 'nother story why. As I stated, I use non-oxy gas in my smaller stuff now; it only comes in 94 octane around here. I guess the most important thing is to stay away from today's ethanol junk; it all has it, and it all degrades rubber/silicone/ fuel lines/gaskets and parts...my 2010 truck manual even states that!!!! Ethanol is alcohol, and you know what happens when you get it on your hands...it drys them out...and does the same to rubber parts. Use the non-oxy and a good fuel stabilzer, (which some people seem to believe makes the ethanol stuff "OK")and you should be good to go. Hope I answered your question!!!! smile

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