Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Reflectix in a Frabill dilema


EZ17

Recommended Posts

I just recently purchased my first portable, a few yr old frabill xl ranger twin and want to install reflectix on the ceiling...the problem I got is that the fabric is attached to the poles with about 1ft wide fabric sleeves instead of velcro straps like others....I really don't wanna cut slots in the sleeves but they cover too much of the pole to allow the 4' wide reflctix to be attached securely..I thought about using wide wooden dowels and sandwhich it between but not sure if thats the best way...I've searched every thread for the last year and havent been able to come up with anything...anybody else dealt with this? thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used to have the same portable, and faced the same dilemma.

What i did was cut a slit in the center of the sleeves about 6" wide (my sleeves ran the entire width of the ceiling), then passed a notch of reflectix through it. You wont be able to run a continuous piece this way, but rather build panels to go between each set of supports. I took a few inches off each edge to give the sides supports too - didn't affect the portable much as there's still plenty of sleeve to keep the canvas on securely. In your situation I would just cut the panels to fit in between the sleeves as much as possible, and maybe trim a little extra off if needed.

The other option I was thinking about doing is getting a hold of some adhesive velcro straps and just put up reflectix panels that way. Not sure how well it would have worked out, but i hear mighty mend it does a bang up job of tacking to canvas.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry about the poor explanation...Nelson understands.....if I use 48" wide reflectix , it ends up ending in the middle of the sleeves....basically if I were to attach it where there is only pole showing, it would be about a foot in on each side from the edge of the reflectix...I'm thinking it would droop severely....Nelson,..what you're saying is if I were to just cut slits in the sleeves for some velcro or tie straps, that the sleeves shouldn't tear up or disintegrate that bad?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You could use heavy duty Velcro and install strips on each overlapping section of the Reflectix.

Then slap them up like Lego's to interlink them under the support frame. That should work. Most craft shops will have the heavy duty Velcro in bulk strips.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry about the poor explanation...Nelson understands.....if I use 48" wide reflectix , it ends up ending in the middle of the sleeves....basically if I were to attach it where there is only pole showing, it would be about a foot in on each side from the edge of the reflectix...I'm thinking it would droop severely....Nelson,..what you're saying is if I were to just cut slits in the sleeves for some velcro or tie straps, that the sleeves shouldn't tear up or disintegrate that bad?

That's essentially what I did, I was able to dig up an image before I got rid of my XLT (pre reflectix unfortunately)

full-26288-3315-img_4149.jpg

I made the center cut and think I could have gotten away without trimming the sides. Notch out the reflectix panel to fit over the bar where you made the cuts. I used velcro straps to tie the reflectix on to the bar, seemed to hold up pretty good.

If you are wanting to keep a resale value, i'd keep the cuts minimal. I didn't have any ripping issues but a potential buyer might not like the idea of it. I would instead try running velcro parallel to the bars (with heavy duty adhesive), cut the reflectix to fit and match up the velcro on the back side of it. You'll have two panels you can easily put up and take down, you can even get creative with reflectix on the back wall to help block wind too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I'm a week late and can't get the camera to work right but I did get the reflectix in and this is what I did...I cut slits in my sleeves just wide enough to get some double backed velcro around the poles..the slits were placed in the center, and at 22" left and right of center so each pole had 3 velcro attachment's plus each pole got a 2- 4" wide by 1 ft strip placed over an exposed area between the sleeves which I then attached to the main sheet of reflectic with Gorilla tape..all slits were also reinforced with Gorilla tape on both sides of the relflectix....It looks like it will work just fine..we'll find out soon!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Truly sorry to hear that duffman! I know that feeling.  Keep the good memories  
    • Chamois passed away this weekend a couple days short of her 13th bday. What a great dog to hang out with here at home and on distant adventures. Gonna miss ya big time my little big girl.
    • Sounds pretty sweet, alright. I will check them out, thanks.
    • If you really want to treat your wife (and yourself) with a remote operated trolling motor, the Minn Kota Ulterra is about easy as it gets.  Auto stow and deploy is pretty awesome.  You just have to turn the motor on when you go out and that the last time you have to touch it.   24V 80lb.  60 inch shaft is probably the right length for your boat.  They ain’t cheap - about $3k - but neither one of you would have to leave your seat to use it all day.
    • Wanderer, thanks for your reply. I do intend for it to be 24 volt, with a thrust of 70-80. Spot lock is a must (my wife is looking forward to not being the anchor person any more).  With my old boat we did quite a lot of pulling shad raps and hot n tots, using the trolling motor. Unlikely that we will fish in whitecaps, did plenty of that when I was younger. I also need a wireless remote, not going back to a foot pedal. We do a fair amount of bobber fishing. I don't think I will bother with a depth finder on the trolling motor. I am leaning toward moving my Garmin depth finder from my old boat to the new one, just because I am so used to it and it works well for me. I am 70 years old and kinda set in my ways...
    • Dang, new content and now answers.   First, congrats on the new boat!   My recommendation is to get the most thrust you can in 24V, assuming a boat that size isn’t running 36V.  80 might be tops?  I’m partial to MinnKota.     How do you plan to use the trolling motor is an important question too.     All weather or just nice weather?   Casting a lot or bait dragging?   Bobber or panfish fishing?   Spot lock?  Networked with depth finders?  What brand of depth finders?
    • We have bought a new boat, which we will be picking up this spring. It is an Alumacraft Competitor 165 sport with a 90 horse Yamaha motor. I will be buying and installing a trolling motor,  wondering if I can get some recommendations on what pound thrust I will want for this boat?  Also, I will be selling my old boat, is there a good way to determine the value on an older boat ( mid-80's with a 75 horse 2-stroke  Mariner motor)  I will appreciate any help with these questions.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.