Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

crappie rod


HNTNBUX

Recommended Posts

I was looking at a new rod for crappies today. I have two 5'6' rods that work fine but I thougt I would get a 6'6' for a little easier casting. I am looking mainly at casting a jig or tube of some sort usually around a 1/16.

The decesion comes on whether to get a light action for more feel or the ultra light and let the rod load up before I can feel them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Depends on how much you are willing to spend, but the 6'6" St. Croix Triumph in ML might serve your purposes well. A little spendy @ $65-70, but worth the price. The Shimano Clarus series is also a good option, around the same price. If you don't want to spend as much, then maybe a Shimano Convergence. I have a six foot model that I've had for a few years.

Another option to look at are the Gander Mountain Guide Series rods. I have a UL, and it actually feels more like a medium-light action rod.

I like my panfish rods a little longer so I can cast farther and not so flimsy so it can handle the occasional lunker bass or nort. I spool up with Fireline so I can feel those delicate bites. Usually with crappies that isn't a problem though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are tossing light jigs like that, get something in the 6'6" to even an 8'er with a L to ML action. BUT make sure it has a fast tip and it isn't a noodle rod. The quick tip really helps with casting distance with those light lures. Doesn't matter what brand or who makes it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So it sounds like the choice is for the heavier rod and not the ultra light in that length. I was looking at the St. Croix rods and a rep at Thorne Bros recommended a shimano I think but they did not have any in stock yet.

Thanks for the info I was thinking that the ultra light might be too soft in that length.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I bought a 7'2" B'n'M last year and love it, it has a really slow action and can toss a bait a long ways. This year i found some blanks that are 2 piece 8 footers that have a little faster action but are still L. cant wait to start building on them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Being a year round crappie nut, I have several open water rods that are used for pitching light jigs. My favorite is a St. Croix Avid 7'6" ML with an XFast action. Doubles as a great live bait rigging rod for walleyes. Fantastic tip and very soft that loads into a nice strong but section. Cast's a 1/32 oz jig as far as you need to in order to get to the fish. Number 2 is the newer Fenwick Elite Tech Walleye 7'2" ML rigging rod. Throws lite jigs, very sensitive, light (a tad ligher than the St. Croix), and again can be used as a walleye rod. The action is a bit more moderate than the Avid so it is more forgiving which makes it a great rod to pair with 2-4 lb fireline for rocket launching casts. Third on my list is a discontinued rod, the Fenwick Venture 7' ML. The action is similar to the Avid but the tip is not quite as soft.

Whichever rod you find, look at ML power with a faster action. Extra Fast action would be the best if you can find it with the power combination of your liking. Try 7' or longer, it will allow for longer casts and easier hook sets.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.