Got a wood-coal furnace to hook up in my basement. It will run on its own t-stat with a combustion blower. It will vent through an interior chimney that is centered in the house, thats in good shape, with a 25' run with 4’ above the roof . At this time the attic in the house is not finished but I hope it is in 2-3 years. The brick of the chimney will remain exposed and covered throughout the house for looks. That should give you a bit of a visual. I plan on running a ss liner up the chimney. I would prefer to run rigid down, its a straight shot, BUT it will cost lots more that flex. (I find that odd.) There is 2 other inserts that were in the house when I moved in. One with flex and one with a rigid liner, the rigid side does performs better. This I can see in the draft and when I clean it but this is an exterior chimney and the flex is for the basement insert with a longer run and that might have something to do with it. This brings be to the insulation part. Seems like a good idea to wrap the flue and kits are out there, but there again more money. $250 or so for insulation kit. From what I gather for a proper suggested install in my house I would get ovalized pipe so I will have room to insulate it so it fits down the rectangle (6 ¾ x 12 ) chimney. Looking at $1150 for a full kit to the job. Mind you that’s a flex not smooth wall pipe. No insulation and a 6”round flex kit for $500. I am not against the insulation and think it maybe a good thing considering this unit will fire up as needed and then die way down when heat is not called for, thus having lots of periods of a cold burns. Insulation would help keep flue temps up but could I just use an unfaced fiberglass and pack it down in or wrap it as suggested with wire and just keep it real thin on the 2 tight sides and go with a round pipe. Or with an interior chimney maybe I should just concentrate on the section above the roof line for insulation. Does anyone have some feedback to share?
I just figured that it is easy enough to just get a 3 bank so when the boat is not in use I can keep all 3 batteries charged. I have not bough a charger yet, maybe I will give it some more thought.
Edit: After thinking this over, with the size, weight, and heat output of the charger (as well as the cost) I think it makes sense to just
buy a 2 bank charger, I have a smaller charger i can use on the starting battery when the boat is sitting at home. Forgive me, for i am a retired engineer and I have to obsess over everything...
Congrats on the motor! I think you’ll like it.
I can’t say much on the charger location but I’ve seen them under the lid in back compartments and under center rod lockers. 160 degrees is more than I expected to hear.
Curious why you’re opting for a 3 bank charger with a 24V trolling motor. Unless you don’t feel you be running you big motor enough to keep that battery up as well?
I did buy an Minnkota Ulterra, thanks for the recommendations. I had a bunch of Cabela"s bucks saved up, which helped. Now i need to
get an onboard battery charger. Where do you guys mount these things in your boat? The manufacturer I am looking at {Noco genius)
says tht their 3-bank charger will run at 160 degrees, seems like a lot of heat in an enclosed compartment? Thanks for any input on this.
Wasn't terrible at a state park beach. Antelope island maybe. I wouldn't recommend it as a beach destination tho. Figured I was there, I'm getting in it.
Question
Hwood
Got a wood-coal furnace to hook up in my basement. It will run on its own t-stat with a combustion blower. It will vent through an interior chimney that is centered in the house, thats in good shape, with a 25' run with 4’ above the roof . At this time the attic in the house is not finished but I hope it is in 2-3 years. The brick of the chimney will remain exposed and covered throughout the house for looks. That should give you a bit of a visual. I plan on running a ss liner up the chimney. I would prefer to run rigid down, its a straight shot, BUT it will cost lots more that flex. (I find that odd.) There is 2 other inserts that were in the house when I moved in. One with flex and one with a rigid liner, the rigid side does performs better. This I can see in the draft and when I clean it but this is an exterior chimney and the flex is for the basement insert with a longer run and that might have something to do with it. This brings be to the insulation part. Seems like a good idea to wrap the flue and kits are out there, but there again more money. $250 or so for insulation kit. From what I gather for a proper suggested install in my house I would get ovalized pipe so I will have room to insulate it so it fits down the rectangle (6 ¾ x 12 ) chimney. Looking at $1150 for a full kit to the job. Mind you that’s a flex not smooth wall pipe. No insulation and a 6”round flex kit for $500. I am not against the insulation and think it maybe a good thing considering this unit will fire up as needed and then die way down when heat is not called for, thus having lots of periods of a cold burns. Insulation would help keep flue temps up but could I just use an unfaced fiberglass and pack it down in or wrap it as suggested with wire and just keep it real thin on the 2 tight sides and go with a round pipe. Or with an interior chimney maybe I should just concentrate on the section above the roof line for insulation. Does anyone have some feedback to share?
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