Got a wood-coal furnace to hook up in my basement. It will run on its own t-stat with a combustion blower. It will vent through an interior chimney that is centered in the house, thats in good shape, with a 25' run with 4’ above the roof . At this time the attic in the house is not finished but I hope it is in 2-3 years. The brick of the chimney will remain exposed and covered throughout the house for looks. That should give you a bit of a visual. I plan on running a ss liner up the chimney. I would prefer to run rigid down, its a straight shot, BUT it will cost lots more that flex. (I find that odd.) There is 2 other inserts that were in the house when I moved in. One with flex and one with a rigid liner, the rigid side does performs better. This I can see in the draft and when I clean it but this is an exterior chimney and the flex is for the basement insert with a longer run and that might have something to do with it. This brings be to the insulation part. Seems like a good idea to wrap the flue and kits are out there, but there again more money. $250 or so for insulation kit. From what I gather for a proper suggested install in my house I would get ovalized pipe so I will have room to insulate it so it fits down the rectangle (6 ¾ x 12 ) chimney. Looking at $1150 for a full kit to the job. Mind you that’s a flex not smooth wall pipe. No insulation and a 6”round flex kit for $500. I am not against the insulation and think it maybe a good thing considering this unit will fire up as needed and then die way down when heat is not called for, thus having lots of periods of a cold burns. Insulation would help keep flue temps up but could I just use an unfaced fiberglass and pack it down in or wrap it as suggested with wire and just keep it real thin on the 2 tight sides and go with a round pipe. Or with an interior chimney maybe I should just concentrate on the section above the roof line for insulation. Does anyone have some feedback to share?
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Wanderer, thanks for your reply. I do intend for it to be 24 volt, with a thrust of 70-80. Spot lock is a must (my wife is looking forward to
not being the anchor person any more). With my old boat we did quite a lot of pulling shad raps and hot n tots, using the trolling motor. Unlikely
that we will fish in whitecaps, did plenty of that when I was younger. I also need a wireless remote, not going back to a foot pedal. We do a fair amount of bobber fishing.
I don't think I will bother with a depth finder on the trolling motor. I am leaning toward moving my Garmin depth finder from my old boat to the
new one, just because I am so used to it and it works well for me. I am 70 years old and kinda set in my ways...
Dang, new content and now answers.
First, congrats on the new boat!
My recommendation is to get the most thrust you can in 24V, assuming a boat that size isn’t running 36V. 80 might be tops? I’m partial to MinnKota.
How do you plan to use the trolling motor is an important question too.
All weather or just nice weather?
Casting a lot or bait dragging?
Bobber or panfish fishing?
Spot lock? Networked with depth finders? What brand of depth finders?
We have bought a new boat, which we will be picking up this spring. It is an Alumacraft Competitor 165 sport with a 90 horse Yamaha
motor. I will be buying and installing a trolling motor, wondering if I can get some recommendations on what pound thrust I will
want for this boat? Also, I will be selling my old boat, is there a good way to determine the value on an older boat ( mid-80's with a 75 horse 2-stroke
Mariner motor) I will appreciate any help with these questions.
I went ahead and watched some of the MLF coverage. Wheeler didn’t make the cut but the bigger story was the Poche/Avera fallout.
Kinda funny listening to both sides of the story and putting together the scenario, reading between the lines.
Question
Hwood
Got a wood-coal furnace to hook up in my basement. It will run on its own t-stat with a combustion blower. It will vent through an interior chimney that is centered in the house, thats in good shape, with a 25' run with 4’ above the roof . At this time the attic in the house is not finished but I hope it is in 2-3 years. The brick of the chimney will remain exposed and covered throughout the house for looks. That should give you a bit of a visual. I plan on running a ss liner up the chimney. I would prefer to run rigid down, its a straight shot, BUT it will cost lots more that flex. (I find that odd.) There is 2 other inserts that were in the house when I moved in. One with flex and one with a rigid liner, the rigid side does performs better. This I can see in the draft and when I clean it but this is an exterior chimney and the flex is for the basement insert with a longer run and that might have something to do with it. This brings be to the insulation part. Seems like a good idea to wrap the flue and kits are out there, but there again more money. $250 or so for insulation kit. From what I gather for a proper suggested install in my house I would get ovalized pipe so I will have room to insulate it so it fits down the rectangle (6 ¾ x 12 ) chimney. Looking at $1150 for a full kit to the job. Mind you that’s a flex not smooth wall pipe. No insulation and a 6”round flex kit for $500. I am not against the insulation and think it maybe a good thing considering this unit will fire up as needed and then die way down when heat is not called for, thus having lots of periods of a cold burns. Insulation would help keep flue temps up but could I just use an unfaced fiberglass and pack it down in or wrap it as suggested with wire and just keep it real thin on the 2 tight sides and go with a round pipe. Or with an interior chimney maybe I should just concentrate on the section above the roof line for insulation. Does anyone have some feedback to share?
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