Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
Sign in to follow this  
HansB

Spun hub, or what?

Recommended Posts

Couple years ago I caught a submerged branch and knocked a blade off my prop (original equipment, OMC 14" x 19). Had the prop rebuilt, but in the meantime bought another prop, so this one became my spare.
Last week thought I'd put it back on the motor (the new one getting a little dinged).

Hole shot at WOT was great, and throttled back to about 4,000 RPM for cruising.

I decided to tweak up the trim a little. As I trimmed upward suddenly the RPM's jumped from 4,000 to about 4,300 and the boat got sluggish and didn't want to stay on plane. This was a sudden jump in RPM, not a gradual increase.

Increased throttle just increased engine speed but the boat didn't respond. Normally WOT RPMs on this rig (90HP Johnson on 16.5' boat) are about 5200-5300, but full thottle they went up around 5800 before I backed off the throttle.

Trimmed the motor back down, but the boat remained sluggish and wouldn't stay on plane.

Stopped the boat, and idled for a couple of minutes, then hit it again. Boat came up on plane just fine but as I trimmed out for cruising, the same effect again.

The hub seems tight (I can't rotate it by hand) but I have no experience with a spun hub, so it may be that it only spins under higher power? If so, instinct tells me it would spin under the full power thrust getting up on plane.

Any other ideas?

Walk softly and carry a big fish.

Hans

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest

I've had a prop on a 9.9 Johnson do that, but I lost total thrust. The compressed rubber inside the prop went and a machine shop had to re-compress the hub of the prop. If that is what you call "spun hub" then that's what it might be.
When you hit objects like that it is best to ruin a prop and spin the hub than destroying the whole lower unit of the motor. Maybe that's why they are designed that way?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest

HansB,
Your motor is probably set too high on the transom. When you trim out, your prop is ventilating which will cause a jump in RPM and a loss in speed. I would try setting the motor lower by 1/4" incremates. Try that and you should see a difference. smile.gif

------------------
Adam Johnson
www.adamjohnsonfishing.com

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't think it has anything to do with motor height.

This prop worked fine before it was damaged. A new replacement prop has worked fine since then. The motor height has not been changed.

The OEM prop only displayed these symptoms when recently installed after repair. The second prop has been put back on the boat, and it works fine.

Hans/MN

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest

It's definitely your prop. The prop needs to be re-compressed with a new clutch or whatever the heck it is called. If you see that compressed rubber inside the prop between where the prop shaft fits inside and the outer shell of the prop where the blades are attached....thats spinning with the pressure at high throttle. At least that is what happened to my outboard motor. It can be repaired fairly easily by a machine shop that has the proper tools.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a prop for my 140 Johnson that is kind of similar. It has been rebuilt a couple times before the problem was noticed. My explanation (guess) is that the blades are not properly set. My motor will cavitate at high speeds but works fine at lower speeds and on take off. I bought a new prop and things are fine. I now have a marginal back up. I didn't try to take it back because, like you, after it was repaired I didn't put it on the boat for over a year.

I don't know if there is a way to check the pitch/shape of the blade to know if it's set correctly.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had a guy check the pitch (he has some tooling which checks pitch) and it is OK, but I'm suspicious that the blade shape was not done right in rebuild.

As one final check, I'm going to paint a white index mark across the inner hub, rubber donut, and outside hub. Then run it again and see if the index line has shifted.

Perhaps I just have to settle on this being a spare prop.

Walk softly and carry a big fish.

Hans/MN


Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  



  • Posts

    • I would fur it out another inch, then spray foam and finish to the furring strips.  No vapor barrier needed at that point.
    • Use 1x2 (actually 3/4"x1 1/2") PVC trim boards for firring strips on the face of studs. The PVC won't absorb any moisture and works well as a thermo break from the aluminum studs. They can be found at any of the big box lumber stores.
    • Moisture is likely condensing on the metal studs and being transferred to the paneling. Furring strips will probably be the best bet with metal studs. You can run them horizontal or vertical and then just attach the paneling to that. I personally wouldn't use a vapor barrier. Some guys do though. 
    • I have a 6.5x14 Ultra Shack. I'm guessing was built early 2000s. Had to tear apart interior walls due to moisture build up. Steel frame, with aluminum 1.5x1.5 or 1"x1" tube studs. Previously insulated with pink board foam between studs, with a thin quarter inch thick foam pad glued to the studs, then paneling glued over the top of it all. I'm thinking the issue was no vapor barrier? I have it all torn apart down to the studs. Wondering how I should finish it, use a vapor barrier such as poly? Or no vapor barrier? Any help is appreciated! Thanks!  -Nate
    • Check striker's page.  They have some of last years stuff onsale.
    • It's been awhile since I've had time to upload pictures. There has been a lot of progress made!  The siding is up and finished! The process was more difficult to manage with the bends and my lack of tape measure skill lol If i were to do the bends again I would make sure to order 2 sheets extra and order them at the length required to wrap the entire house. From the point on the nose all the way back to the middle of the rear wall. There ended up being vertical seams along the sides here, which in hind sight, isn't ideal.  One thing that i'm not sure I've noted is the bottom white trim. A lot of people use J- Channel on the bottom but you can order a trim called a step down. Which works awesome around the lower edges and doesn't fill up with ice and snow.  The trailer lights are all wired up and working. Seeing whats back behind these big trailers always drives me crazy so i bought the ones with reverse lights built in.  The maiden voyage was out into the parking lot and then back into the shop. It didn't fall apart so it was a success.  I took a few pictures of the bending process. It was a pretty simple setup. A big piece of angle aluminum secured between 2 - 2x4's with 2 clamps a bar and a big hammer worked really well. If you're going to do this make sure to add half of the rib height to whatever the measurement you're trying to hit is. And as i mentioned before, buy the length to wrap the house from the front point all the way to the middle of the rear wall.  We would clamp the bar down then hit it with the hammer to "break" the corrugations. Once they were broken it bent extremely easy.  We also got most of the lighting on the inside roughed in. I have 4 110 outlets and 2 USB plug ins for cell phone/misc charging. All of the lighting will run on 12V. I'm no engineer but, each of the lights in the picture draw 240mA so with them all on I'm thinking i'll get about 30 hours of run time on one battery. There will be 2 batteries for lighting and USB and a separate one for the heater so I should be ok for a weekend "off the grid". I'll have a generator as well to run the TV and other goodies which can charge the batteries as well.  I also picked up the material for the interior. Menard's is having their 11% sale until 10/21/17 and also a sale on their 5/16" Cedar tongue and groove. Between the two sales I got the price down to just under $1 per square foot. Apparently, they aren't stocking this specific Cedar anymore so I had to buy 3 different stores out of stock to get all that I needed. In the end I still didn't have enough to do the roof so i bought some Birch plywood to finish that part. I think a lighter ceiling will help the place feel a little bigger anyways. I got antsy last night and finished some of the cedar boards with Natural Finish Watco Danish Oil. It turned out to be the exact look I was going for. From what I've read i think finishing them all before installation is the way to go. Then once everything is up doing a quick coat of Danish to even everything out.  At this point i'm counting the Steps left to go instead of how many I have done! It's getting close to starting the fun part ( the interior). I'll keep everyone posted on the progress! 
    • My bad... How about this?   https://icefishingdeals.com/
    • Yea, I'm not sure when this project is gonna get evicted from the shop area that i'm using so we had to get it weather proof first. Ideally i think the interior first is a better approach. We ran into some issues wiring that would've been easier handling from the outside. 
    • They don't save cap space that is the whole point. The money is still spent. What it allows them to do is go OVER the cap during such time a player is on LTIR. It doesn't give them relief at all, it just allows them to go over the cap. We already have Coyle on LTIR so it wouldn't do any good to add Parise to that. That would mean two moves would have to happen when they are both healthy. The Wild could do that too, but what sense would that make because they would be forced to be compliant once Parise is healthy. Hossa is likely going to be LTIR all year. At this point I doubt Parise will be out that long. Russo did a very good writeup on it last night for TheAthletic. You can also read up on it on CapFriendly.
    • I'm on board with the others, sounds legal to me!  Best of luck hunting! Kettle
  • Our Sponsors