Door adjustment 2000 silverado

[marine_man]

How bad of a job was it to swap them out?

I should really do that on the drivers door of my pickup...

marine_man

[upnorth]

Not that bad. I just ran a few ropes up to the rafters and tied the door up, removed the bolts holding the hinge together, lifted up off the hinges and let it hang there while I worked on the pins and bushings. That way i didn't have to pull the panel off and mess with the wiring. I filed off the mushroomed edges and pried the pins out with and old beater screw driver and then the bushings, cleaned everything up and put it back together. They went back in pretty easily and the one that didn't I used a C-clamp to press it back in place. Didn't even need a helper

The pin and bushing sets were like $4.25 per hinge, 2 sets per door, took me longer to get another set than it did to do the replacement.

[marine_man]

Thanks!

marine_man

[Ebiz]

Thanks for all the tips, just did my driver's side door on my 2000 Blazer yesterday and new bushings/pins did the trick. It was getting so bad I had to roll down the window and slam the door from the outside to get it to shut all the way. Bushings were disintegrated or completely gone.

[Note from admin: Please read forum policy before posting again. Thank you.]

- Edit - Admin removed the link, understandable as it's forum policy. If anyone wants to see a full picture tutorial on this just shoot me an e-mail and I'll send you the link: ebiz 308 at yahoo . com - Just remove the spaces

Couple tips/things I observed:

- When buying the parts, be sure to ask for the bushing/hinge pin kit price. I called the "Friendly" Chev dealer up the road and was quoted $6.30 per hinge pin. When I got there I found out that that was only for the pin, charged me $3 for each of the four bushings as well.

- Go to Harbor Freight for the spring tool, they're only $5 there, right in the front of the store by the JB Weld and glue.

- What worked great for me was using a ratchet strap tied to the rafters to support the door once loose. Kept the door from binding once I got one pin out and also kept the door in place and allowed for precise adjustments to height and angle when lining it up for the new pins.

- Getting the old pins and bushings out was a bit of a chore but mine were pretty rusty and a little WD-40 did the trick. One thing I would recommend is having both short and long punches - the way GM engineered the bottom curve of the door made the lower hinge a bit tricky. I wound up using different length bolts that I had laying around as punches.

- Vice grips do work great to get the new bushings started

- Not sure how well this method would work to seat the new bushings as I only used it to get the last one in all the way. Get the bushing started, then thread a bolt with washer though the bushing and other hinge pin hole. Attached another washer and hex nut and use ratchet/wrenches to tighten the bolt and set the bushing. Like I said I'm not sure if it would work but if it did it's way better than trying to manuver a punch in there and hit the bushing straight on.

- Definitely keep track of which bushings are which, there are two different sizes that need to go in the correct place. Larger inner diameter bushings go in the lower hole on top hinge and upper hole on bottom hinge.

All in all it was pretty easy, took a little over an hour and I wasn't really rushing.