Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Pointers and pheasants


Saw557

Recommended Posts

I just returned from a not real productive pheasant hunt in SW minn on public land and I am wondering what other peoples experience's are with pointers in very thick-tall grass, cattails and standing corn. I have wirehaired Griffon and for what its worth he's a prize II NAVHDA Utility dog but things didn't really go our way I was also hunting alone. I figured out trying to hunt standing corn even small patch's waste of time and not good for the dog. The cattails were just about the same as the corn. He did all right in the medium height grass but the tall stuff he was bouncing like a pogo stick and just not punching out far enough to be effective. He did point several hens and a few roosters but I am wondering if the roosters weren't running out on him. Given the conditions and what I saw happen I almost wonder if a flusher wouldn't be a better choice. Also how much time on the ground would you expect out of a dog it was about 60 degrees out and he hunted probably 6-7 hours over two days and was all done

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think a flusher is the best sure fire dog for pheasants in many situations. Having said that, shooting a rooster over a point is the only reason I go. Body count doesn't matter for me anymore, it's all about getting birds pointed. If you think your dog is going to make every rooster sit so it can point them solidy and you can get in front of it for the flush that isn't going to happen. Pheasants don't care about titles and I've seen some highly regarded dogs be made to look stupid by pheasants. Noted pheasant writer Larry Brown says he gets about 80% of his roosters over points but his definition of a point is very loose. You most definitely will have birds run out from under a point at times. At other times conditions will make birds sit better. Fresh snow, being pushed from a freshly picked corn field, etc., will sometimes cause them to sit tighter.

Clean standing corn is generally not going to work for a pointer. Most of the time the birds will run like mad in corn. Cattails do work and are great pheasant cover but for me I do cattails as a last resort. You will get more hens pointed than roosters generally.

At 60 degrees and having the coat that a griffon has I think getting 6-7 hours is pretty good. A dog with a shorter coat that's in good shape will likely go longer in warmer weather than a similar dog with a heavy coat.

Give it some time. Your dog will shine in late season. It's a different ballgame in late season. Crops are out and the weather has an impact. Also remember that a pointer doesn't get really good at it until they are in their 3rd or 4th season.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

gspman sums it up nicely.. That thick sawgrass beats dogs down, as well as cattaills..Early seaon cover as a whole is just tough on pointers. It's usually still green and very thick. The best times are yet to come, cops out, snow down etc. Give it time and it will pay off.. Or you can get yourself a springer like I did for when it's tough going for the pointers. It is nice to have him as a back up plan.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thick cover is all I hunt with my Weim. And like was said don't look for the perfect point everytime it just isn't going to happen especially on birds that have been hunted hard already (i.e. public land). These birds have saved there behinds before running and that's what they'll do again.

On another note: My dog was getting beat up pretty bad by the thick cover and I have tried alot of vest and such to keep her in good shape. Last year my wife bought her a cheap under armor knock-off shirt. The one for hot weather of course. And that worked as well as anything. It doesn't heat the dog up as bad as the neoprene vest and it fits tightly so it doesn't rub on her arm-pit area!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hunting tall grass or standing corn with a pointer is challenging to say the least. I usually avoid standing corn with my English Setter because I use a beeper collar on him and he covers a lot of ground it doesn't work out very well. We hunted near Benson a couple of weeks ago and hardly any corn had been picked. We hunted large public areas with grass and never flushed a bird. We decided to hunt a strip of standing corn on a public area and with all the noise we were making especilly the beeper the birds were flushing way ahead of us and we never got a shot. Two days later two of us walked the same corn without the dog and the noise from the beeper and the [PoorWordUsage] pheasants were still flushing way ahead of us and out of range. Again, no shots were fired. The best answer I guess is to wait until the crops are in and the grass becomes a better choice and with a pointing dog it is essential to know where the dog is. One farmer who had been harvesting corn at night said that he was kicking out birds from his field in the dark meaning that the smart ones are staying near the food.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.