If you are tired of cranking the hand wheel on your boatlift you have probably checked out the power adaptors that turn it into a power lift. STICKER SHOCK!!! Ok, they are a bit spendy. So what; back to the hand wheel? Not necessarily, what if you could do it just as well for less than $150?
I just replaced the hand wheel winch with a power winch like you use on an ATV. A little over $100, and it works fine. My neighbor insisted I rig one up for his pontoon boat but I refused. In an emergency, I can always just pull my boat up on the beach but he would be in trouble with a dead battery and a storm kicking up.
Then I thought, Why not put the power winch on one end and just leave the other end attached to the hand winch? ! So that’s what we did and it works great. You will need a winch that is “power in + power out” and adequate in power with plenty of cable. Mount the winch high enough that it is not subject to being splashed too much. If possible align it with the cable or add a pulley so the cable feeds directly onto the drum. If that end of the cable fastens on the boat platform rather than the frame of the lift, you will need another pulley to route it back up to the winch.
You don’t need a really powerful winch unless you have a heavy boat. I did notice that for a couple more bucks you not only get more power but bigger and longer cable. My neighbor used one of those portable winches that are made to drop onto a trailer hitch. It looks nice with it’s plastic housing. Mount the switch where you can reach it and hook it up to a battery. I use a larger deep cycle battery and charge it again mid season just to be safe.
Be careful, there are too many variables in a project like this to give directions that will result in a safe and serviceable conversion under all circumstances. If you don’t have the experience necessary to complete a project like this, get help. The idea works, the execution is up to you.
If you really want to treat your wife (and yourself) with a remote operated trolling motor, the Minn Kota Ulterra is about easy as it gets. Auto stow and deploy is pretty awesome. You just have to turn the motor on when you go out and that the last time you have to touch it.
24V 80lb. 60 inch shaft is probably the right length for your boat. They ain’t cheap - about $3k - but neither one of you would have to leave your seat to use it all day.
Wanderer, thanks for your reply. I do intend for it to be 24 volt, with a thrust of 70-80. Spot lock is a must (my wife is looking forward to
not being the anchor person any more). With my old boat we did quite a lot of pulling shad raps and hot n tots, using the trolling motor. Unlikely
that we will fish in whitecaps, did plenty of that when I was younger. I also need a wireless remote, not going back to a foot pedal. We do a fair amount of bobber fishing.
I don't think I will bother with a depth finder on the trolling motor. I am leaning toward moving my Garmin depth finder from my old boat to the
new one, just because I am so used to it and it works well for me. I am 70 years old and kinda set in my ways...
Dang, new content and now answers.
First, congrats on the new boat!
My recommendation is to get the most thrust you can in 24V, assuming a boat that size isn’t running 36V. 80 might be tops? I’m partial to MinnKota.
How do you plan to use the trolling motor is an important question too.
All weather or just nice weather?
Casting a lot or bait dragging?
Bobber or panfish fishing?
Spot lock? Networked with depth finders? What brand of depth finders?
We have bought a new boat, which we will be picking up this spring. It is an Alumacraft Competitor 165 sport with a 90 horse Yamaha
motor. I will be buying and installing a trolling motor, wondering if I can get some recommendations on what pound thrust I will
want for this boat? Also, I will be selling my old boat, is there a good way to determine the value on an older boat ( mid-80's with a 75 horse 2-stroke
Mariner motor) I will appreciate any help with these questions.
Question
BillP
If you are tired of cranking the hand wheel on your boatlift you have probably checked out the power adaptors that turn it into a power lift. STICKER SHOCK!!! Ok, they are a bit spendy. So what; back to the hand wheel? Not necessarily, what if you could do it just as well for less than $150?
I just replaced the hand wheel winch with a power winch like you use on an ATV. A little over $100, and it works fine. My neighbor insisted I rig one up for his pontoon boat but I refused. In an emergency, I can always just pull my boat up on the beach but he would be in trouble with a dead battery and a storm kicking up.
Then I thought, Why not put the power winch on one end and just leave the other end attached to the hand winch? ! So that’s what we did and it works great. You will need a winch that is “power in + power out” and adequate in power with plenty of cable. Mount the winch high enough that it is not subject to being splashed too much. If possible align it with the cable or add a pulley so the cable feeds directly onto the drum. If that end of the cable fastens on the boat platform rather than the frame of the lift, you will need another pulley to route it back up to the winch.
You don’t need a really powerful winch unless you have a heavy boat. I did notice that for a couple more bucks you not only get more power but bigger and longer cable. My neighbor used one of those portable winches that are made to drop onto a trailer hitch. It looks nice with it’s plastic housing. Mount the switch where you can reach it and hook it up to a battery. I use a larger deep cycle battery and charge it again mid season just to be safe.
Be careful, there are too many variables in a project like this to give directions that will result in a safe and serviceable conversion under all circumstances. If you don’t have the experience necessary to complete a project like this, get help. The idea works, the execution is up to you.
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