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pullin a trailer


beaverlakeman

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Got a question.. When income taxes come in, i will be buying 2 used sleds and a trailer. I have a 2004 grandprix gt with the 3.8 engine. I should have no problems pulling that right? Any thought would be greatly appreciated.

thanks,

beaverlakeman

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In most cases pulling a trailer has more to do with keeping your transmission cool and the ability to stop it moreso than the ability to pull it. A good hitch is also a must because many that are available for cars are for light loads. The 3800 has more than enough power to pull the load and you have 4 wheel disc brakes so you should be ok there too. My concern would be with the transmission. Even a light load with the extra wind resistance it causes can cause transmissions to run hot or at the very least warmer than they should (even in cold weather). This can shorten the life of the trans. If you plan to trailer with any regularity or distance I'd recommend a cooler be installed. Other than that you should be ok. You should probably check your owners manual to see if they have any restrictions or recommendations about it too(if you haven't already).

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thanks for the reply..

Mostly as far as towing goes, it would be from fargo to duluth which is relatively flat and 240 miles. Maybe only back and forth 3 or 4 times a year at most. Would this be overstressing the tranny, or make it run hot? As for a cooler, Is it an internal thing they put in or what, and how much would one run?

Also what would a decent hitch cost to be bought and installed? Just an estimate.

thanks again,

jeremy

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Trans coolers are relatively inexpensive. Say 29 on the low end to 80 or so high end. You or a friend could install one with a minimal amount of tools if you are handy or have it installed somewhere. They tap into the cooler lines that already go to your radiator. It is an additional cooler to the factory one in the radiator. It mounts in front of the radiator. The amount of "stress" on the tranny can be dependent (among other things)on the driver and his/her habits, the trailer weight and weather conditions. Flat towing is the easiest since hills can cause your trans to shift down and back up frequently with a load on which builds heat. For occasional towing some may say this is overkill, but with the cost of a tranny rebuild it is pretty cheap insurance down the road.

A decent hitch should run around 100 bucks I suppose. I would try to stay away from the "universal" type hitches that fit several applications. They are usually more complicated to install and require more bolts and drilling. Model specific hitches FIT right and install much easier.

Installation cost is usually dependent on labor time. Most can be put on in less than an hour, so whatever labor costs in your area would dictate the installation price.

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Beaver

I did the same thing last year, sans the car. I have a big truck. Here is what I learned from my used sled buying adventures.

1. Get reverse

2. Get reverse

3. Get reverse

4. Strongly recommend EFI over carb, especially if you or whoever is starting it is smaller (like my kid or wife).

5. Run it IN THE SNOW for a while before you buy. Just cause it starts and runs on the trailer don't mean dump.

6. Make sure odometer runs and you are getting true miles. If not the cable could be shot or the bearings could be shot and you have to replace them.

In all, I came out OK. My first one is A/C Wildcat 700 CARB with No reverse. Hard to pull when cold, only I can do it, and if you have a full stomach, you hope it starts easy. LOLx10 Kid can usually start it when warm. Had a bunch of dump wrong with it, little stuff but needed some work. I think mostly it was a bad safety sensor, but that caused backfiring and I broke off a reed valve. Then the shock went bad adn that was $$$. Clutch needed maintainance bad. Guy lied, of course, and said he had a bunch of routine maint done "last season." Afer the deal was closed I called teh shop he allegedly took it to and they ahd NO RECORD or recollection of ever working on the sled. But there is an awsome A/C dealer in Tower and he got me running straight for a reasonable price.

The second one was EFI and has reverse. Same sled and year and everything. That guy was not a lier and it worked real nice from the get go. Learned on my first one. Rode it in snow the who deal. Also found out WHAT A PAIN IN THE BUTT IT IS pulling sleds around to make a turn on a trial. Would never buy a non - reverse one again. If I was getting one for my wife, I would have to seriously think about an electric start. I can pull the EFI over real easy but she can't make the string go fast enough to get it to turn when cold. Warm is OK. Or get a manual start that way she has to keep you around if she likes sledding.

If you don't live in MN get a trail permit before you ride or else you will pay $$$ to DNR. Also, you will need a stud permit of out of state. Oh yeah, studs are good if you plan on riding across lakes and stuff to go ice fishing. I also notice a little better control in snow too, but I am not a hot dog rider. Like to go straight and flat- Mostly casual ride on trails in woods or lake, to my property which gets inaccessable buy truck in winter or FISHIN!

Have fun---

Oh, I bought mine from Illinois where there is never snow and they don't get used too much so even though they are 1993s they have not been used as much as say a 1993 bought from the average guy in North East MN. I think people lie more in the city, so that should be factored in too. Also, if you have a particular destination in mind where you will always be going find out who teh local dealer is and, if he/she is good, then buy that brand, cause then you have a plce to go and get it fixed while on your trip so you don't have to walk all over instead of ride.

Capt Ken

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