Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

right gear for trout


hookncook

Recommended Posts

I've been spin casting for small stream trout all me life- I've caught a lot of them to the point that it's not even fun anymore.

Off and on over the years, I've picked up the fly rod- but never really too serious until last year's reel recovery retreat- then again at this year's retreat.

I'm going to take some fly lessons during the trout unlimited convention in Oshkosh and am really looking forward to picking up a few pointers there.

But over the winter, I want to really dial in on the gear and make a serious run. SO far I have a TFO 5 wt, and a castaila outdoors 3 wt- but the second is more of a beginner rod...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What's your target species?.bows, browns, brookies...

Length of rods?..a 8-9 ft 5 wt will be your most versitile rod. It has the ability to finese small dry flies,yet it can punch a moderate sized streamer or nymph/float setup also. Why do say the 3 wt is more of a beginner rod?.often the 3 wt is used for delicate presentations such as small dry flies down to sz.20.which would be more geared for a more advanced angler. What's the size of the stream your fishin. If its a brushy small one stick with a shorter rod like a 7-7.5 ft..if its a big open stream, a longer rod like a 9-10 ft would be benificial.. with a little more info I should be able to help you out more..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Those are good questions... I'll more than likely start fly fishing in the pasture style HI type streams.. mostly as wide as a sidewalk in most places.

then if I graduate that phase, I'll more than likely focus on the bushier stretches.

Species- multi species.. has to transition between browns and brookies because that's kind of a matra here in this neck of the woods.

I'll more than likely keep my 5wt for bass and pike if I can get myself to learn distance casting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok..here's how I would set up for a 1 rod only trip. 4 wt rod/reel with extra spools for 3 wt wf floating and 5 wt wf floating..this should handle all spectrums of the trout your seeking. Biengs its wide open I would go with a 8-9 ft long rod. A 4x leader/tippet should prove good enough but don't be afraid to step up or down a size. Remember the smaller the x number the bigger the fly and larger the x number will be smaller fly.. a good rule of thumb is to take the size fly and divide by 3. So a sz. 12 fly will be best suited for a 4x tippet. Again, this is how I would setup..for you the 5 wt would be a good rod to start with for most anything.. keep the 3 wt handy for those times when fish get selective. A great fly to use for any species of trout is the wooly bugger in sizes 8-14 should cover you. I think I covered most if what you were asking..shoot me more if you need to!.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.