Build Plans

[MrSchrute]

Does anyone know where to get build plans for a permanent ice shack?

[TyGuy02]

I don't know off the top of my head, but I've seen plans for sale on certain sites on the web for a little $$$. I've looked hard and never seen anything for free if that's what you're looking for

[DRH1175]

What are you looking for a permanent skid house? Not sure about plans but I am building one as we speak and have researched the heck out of it and can fill you in on what i am doing. I am building a 10 x 16 and will be hauling it up to Winni when done next year.

[Lip_Ripper Guy]

What size do you want to build? I wouldn't worry too much about plans. There are enough people here to help you out.

Check out my 2010 Fish House Build thread for more pictures of the entire process. Feel free to ask away with any questions. Here is kind of a general idea as to what you'll be doing, from trailer frame up:

-Floor goes down first, use 3/4" treated plywood, marine plywood, or a product like Advantech. Use self tapping bolts, I got mine from Fastenal or Fish House Supply. If you use treated plywood, make sure your fasteners won't be affected by the chemicals.

-Screws (no nails) and glue (PL400 or equivalent) for all framing. Glue EVERYTHING. Try to find screws with the T25 torx heads. They cost more, but are well worth it.

-Most people do 2x4's ripped in half for wall studs. Put the ripped edge to the middle of the wall cavity (keeps your walls a consistent thickness-without waves).

-Walls are held on to trailer frame with self tapping bolts, again from Fastenal or FHS. Look closely between the wall studs. I put a washer on each bolt for more holding power.

-Use full 2x4's for the corners, windows, and door framing

-I framed the walls with a 2x2 top and bottom plate, and then added a full 2x4 on top of the top plate for the rafters. You could potentially skip the 2x2 top plate, and use a 2x4 (save the weight of the 2x2 all around), but I didn't want to mess with 4"+ screws to save 20-30 pounds. I used 2x4's for rafters with a flat roof, some people will put an angle cut for drainage. With a rubber roof I felt it was unnecessary.

-I cut vertical framing pieces at 6'9". I have about a 6'8" interior height.

-Use 3/8" or 1/2" plywood for the roof. I used 3/8" since I used spray foam, which adds a ton of strength. Anything else, I'd use 1/2".

There are a bunch of different directions you could go with everything else, but I'm thinking you were looking for some framing advice.

[LightningBG]

What are you looking for a permanent skid house? Not sure about plans but I am building one as we speak and have researched the heck out of it and can fill you in on what i am doing. I am building a 10 x 16 and will be hauling it up to Winni when done next year.

Beware that a 10ft wide house wont legally roll down the road without an oversize permit. Limit is 8'6".

Info here: MN DOT

[MrSchrute]

I guess what I'm looking for is something that is light enough that i can tow out a little ways then put together. The lake I want to build it on doesn't have a boat launch so I'd have to carry walls and all the rest of it down a bank then on to the ice. I was looking at a simple one with just a wood floor and two wood sides then just putting a canvas tarp over it to mke up the other two walls and roof. I was able to find plans for that online.

Maybe I'll just hve to build it at home then screw it all together on the ice if i go a different route.