Big Cat Dad Posted September 25, 2011 Share Posted September 25, 2011 I replaced my 6 year old cranking battery about a month ago because I thought that was the issue after it wouldn't hold a charge but apparently it isn't. Before I got started this morning I had a hard time cranking engine over.....nothing but a series of beeps from my engine. I finally got it started and didn't think anything of it. As I started the engine throughout the day, I continued to have problems. It would shut down the depth finder and start sometimes, others times it wouldn't start at all. At idle my volt meter reads 12 volts and 14 when driving down the river. After a long run back to the ramp......I killed the engine and did a 360 to clean out my grate, when I went to crank the battery over........dead, for a minute or so anyway, then it eventually cranked over.What could be the issue? Bad alternator, connection, or cables? I only have my depth finder/gps hooked up, so it shouldn't be sucking to much juice and even if it were, after a long run it should be charged enough if the alternator is working properly.Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro Active Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 I got these tips from another site. Maybe they can help you.Outboard Won’t Start: 1. Electric start: Does the starter engage and rotate the flywheel at a good (normal) speed? If yes, go to 2. Does starter spin, but Bendix gear (small gear on starter shaft) does not engage the flywheel? Lubricate Bendix spiral shaft. Does the solenoid click? * If yes, measure voltage at the starter terminal to battery ground with starter engaged. If 12 V, repair or replace starter. If less than 9V measure voltage at large solenoid input terminal (from battery). If less than 9V, go to 3. If 12V, replace solenoid. Solenoid does not click when key is turned to start. Measure voltage at small solenoid terminal. 0 volts? Troubleshoot kill switch (lanyard connected?), battery, starter switch and neutral start switch in controller. 2 volts? Replace solenoid. 2. Flywheel rotates but engine does not attempt to start. Electric and manual start. Remove a spark plug, reconnect it and hold it against engine block. Keep it there while turning engine over. Does it make a hot, blue spark when attempting to start? If no, troubleshoot ignition system. Has hot, blue spark. Squirt some fuel mix (NOT ether) into the carburetor(s). Does it attempt to start? If yes, you have inadequate fuel. Troubleshoot fuel system and review starting procedure. If no, check that carburetor is not flooding from failed float needle. Still won’t attempt to start. Check compression. If bad, troubleshoot mechanicals. Good compression on all cylinders. Check flywheel for sheared key, check crankcase for sealing at carburetor(s), inlet manifold and bypass covers. 3. Low voltage at starter when engaged. Measure voltage at battery terminals. If below 12.6 volts with all electrics turned off, recharge or replace battery. Measure battery voltage with starter engaged. If below 9 volts, recharge or replace battery. Remove and clean connections on battery-to-solenoid cable, battery-to-engine block cable and solenoid-to-starter cable. While they are off, inspect each for corrosion, broken insulation with corrosion and weak points. Replace corroded or weak cables. 4. If problem persists, remove starter and clean all surfaces where engine block and starter connect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkunkedAgain Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 The first thing that I would do is test the alternator. Put a tester on there to see how many amps are being put out while the motor is running. Easy test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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