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Hey Hovermn I have a wiring question for you.


MJ1657

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I read an older post that you put an Iota transfer switch before your power distribution center. What is this used for?

I need to order components for my house soon. So far I plan on using the Iota IDP-30 power dist. panel and DLS-45 charger inverter w/IQ4 smart charger.

I am a little confused on how everything will work. Will I be able to use 110v lights and outlets at the same time i'm using 12v lights? Does it work the same whether the generator is running or not?

I hope I am making sense. Anyone that can help me out feel free to chime in.

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If you're running a generator, or another sourse for 110 like an inverter, you can absolutely run 110 AND 12v at the same time using the converter. That's what it does. As long as your not running too high of an amp rating for our wiring, there won't be any issues. In otherwords, you wouldn't want to charge your batteries, run every light in the house and plug in a microwave. You'd probably blow a circuit or fry your wiring.

The transfer switch automatically switches from one power sourse to another. Lets say you're running an inverter off the batteries to run your 110 lights, phone chargers, etc... Then you decide you'd like to run the generator to charge the house batteries. The transfer switch will automatically switch the 110 source from the inverter to the generator. When the generator kicks off, it'll automatically switch back to the inverter. It also allows you to set the timing of the transfer from instant to delayed.

I believe this is how my house was set up. The Iota Converter/charger was hooked up to the batteries. The 110 plug was then plugged into the back of the IDP (there's a built in 110 outlet on the back) The house power hook up (for generator or outside power sourse) ran straight into the transfer switch. The 110v side of the inverter also ran into the transfer switch. From there, I routed it into the IDP. All of the 110 outlets (and/or lights) ran out from the IDP breakers. All of the 12v outlets and lights were also run out of the IDP fuse block.

When not plugged into an external power source, I unplugged the Converter/charger from the back of the IDP to prevent it from kicking in when the inverter was being used. It's constantly monitoring the batteries as evidence from the blinking light on the unit, so I then ran the pos. out of the Converter/charger to a battery switch. This allowed me to disconnect the converter from the batteries so it wasn't drawing amps while sitting idle. I usually left the inverter unplugged from the batteries while not in use to prevent unnecessary power draw. They draw substantial power just sitting at idle.

Everything I installed was to prevent idle amp draw. Keep that in mind while wiring your fish house. I'm sure there are plenty of details I left out, so please feel free to ask any further questions!

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MJ,

You can achieve the same thing by wiring a small sub panel for the 110 with 3-4 breakers in it and a small 12 volt fuse box with 6-8 fuse blanks.

The 110 would be hard wired to the generator plug and the 12 volt would be hard wired to the converter. You'd probably end up saving quite a bit of money doing it this way.

Hovermn makes a good point though, keep in mind what you are running at the same time, I only plan on using the inverter for a TV, dvd and cable box when the generator is not running. They will be manually switched when the generator is running.

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What I found is that if you don't have a transfer switch in the system and accedently leave the inverter plugged in when you hook up to an external power sourse, you'll blow a circuit every time. Do you need one, no. I installed one for the convenience and peace of mind that I wasn't going to blow something up or fry something if I did that too many times.

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Sorry, I think I missed a part of your question. The only time your 110 lights will work is when you have some sort of 110 power sourse. That can come from a generator or other external hook up, or from an inverter off the batteries. The converter will not run your 110 system. It's there to run your 12v system if you don't have batteries hooked up. If you have batteries, it'll take the draw off the batteries (if 110 power is present) as well as charge them.

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I'm not sure of the model number, but it was the 30 amp model. They make higher and lower amp models depending on your application. I went with the 30 because I figured I'd rather have it rated a little higher than I'd run though it.

Here's a picture, though pretty bad, of the rough in wiring. It may help, it may not.

wiring.jpg

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Hovermn,

Can you give me a call when you get a chance. Anytime after 8 this morming works.

I am having a tough time figuring out how I should set my electrical up in my house. seven six three seven four four eight seven one eight.

Thanks!

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Sorry I didn't get that until just now. I'll give you a call tomorrow when I have a chance. Or, feel free to give me a call anytime after 6 am

Six 5 one thee thee fif fif thee tu ate

Haha, web bots are getting good at figuring that stuff out!

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