Replacing seats

[aug495fish]

I will be replacing the lounge seats in my boat with pedestals in the next couple of weeks. I have picked out the seats but now I am wondering what is the best to use for bases and pedestals. Any thoughts? I've looked at any number of different types and am just not sure what is best to use.

[TooTallTom]

Be sure you get something that is rated for use by the operator (driver) while underway. I think it's class AO?

I'm using the 238 series from Swivl-Eze. They're the only removable seats that I found that are AO rated. I wanted all the seats in the boat to be movable, so that was my big concern.

[FM_Mike]

I agree, the Attwood 238 series IMO is the way to go. As said removable and very sturdy.

Parts are available at most retailers.

Mike

[aug495fish]

Thank you for the recommendation. Do you think I should use those for all four seats or just the two that will be used the most? Or are the bases for the 238's exclusive for only that pedestal?

Anyone have any hints and tips about installing the bases? I will be replacing the deck in the boat as well.

[TooTallTom]

Generally, the bases are specific to the pedestal/ seating system. I'd go with 238's for all your seats, because then you are maximizing your options. You'll never run into, "Oh, gosh, this seat won't fit here." (That's translated from the actual language that will be used when you're on the water.) Put another way, you won't have to worry about which seats you grab if you leave some home because there are only two of you going out in the boat.

If you're replacing the deck as well, you might want to lay the new deck in place to mark where you want the seats, and install the mounting plates on the deck before you actually install the deck in the boat. This will allow you to easily get at both sides of the project, and use a backing plate or something similar if you choose to go that route. (To keep from pulling the seats out through the floor. There's a pretty big about of torque on a pedestal base...)

[aug495fish]

What is the best thing to use as a backing plate?

[suncruiser234]

1/4" aluminum plate would be the best, but 3/4" plywood will also work.

[TooTallTom]

I don't know what the best is, but 1/4" alum would certainly do it. And you'll want a ring rather than a plate, because the receptacle on the pedestal will have to go somewhere. If you go with aluminum, make sure to pay attention to what kind of plywood you use. Some kinds of treated will corrode the aluminum. I have a 3/4" deck in my boat on a temporary basis, and that's pretty sturdy. When I re-do it, I'll either go with a metal backer (aluminum or stainless) or two layers of 3/4" decking and fender washers.

I know it's overkill, but if I'm going to the trouble to re-do the boat, I want to make sure it will last my lifetime.

[suncruiser234]

You can cut a hole in the 1/4" alum with a jig saw or a hole saw very easily.

Tom - you are going to have lots of problems if your decking on an aluminum boat corrodes aluminum!

[TooTallTom]

"Oh, I really wish I had installed those high-flow bilge pumps!"

That would ruin your day, right? The boat I'm considering for resto is fiberglass, so I don't have to worry about the aluminum-treated interaction. I will probably spring for stainless steel for a backer if I decide to go that route, just to be sure.

Thanks for looking out.

[aug495fish]

I have a question about backing plates now.

I have 1/4 inch backing plates that I am going to use. I would like to have the nuts fixed on the bottom of the backing plate so that I can just screw the bases in. This will help me in laying the cover on the floor (so I can get the covering under the bases) and it will also help if I want to change the orientation in which the seats lock. My question is, could I use JB Weld to fix the nuts in place on the backing plate or should I take it somewhere and have someone weld them in place.

[TooTallTom]

I would be certain about how you want the seats to lock (orientation) before you do a final install. If you decide to change it, and you take all the bolts out, what's going to hold the backing plate up where you can screw the bolts back into it. Did you decide to go with the 238s? If so, you can just cut another keyway into the top of the post at, say, 180 degrees from the original.

I really don't know if JB Weld will do the job in a lasting way, but a welder definitely could. Just make sure all the hardware (backing plate and all fasteners) are of the same type of metal. That will be easiest for the welder, and yield the best results.

Sorry I can't be more help.

[aug495fish]

I did go with the 238's. I was planning on either using liquid nails or riveting the plate to the floor.

[TooTallTom]

I'd be pretty hesitant to rivet the plate to the floor, since that's just going to be another way for water to enter (and rot) the wood. I really don't know anything about liquid nails, but how hard will that be to remove from the plate the next time (ideally, there won't be a next time, but...) you want to re-do the floor?

I'm not trying to shoot down every idea you come up with, I'm just trying to help look at the problem from all the different sides/ possibilities. This is good for me, too, since I'm thinking about a major re-do of a boat. Basically, I'm trying to do everything in my head before I do it in the real world.

[TooTallTom]

If you had a couple of bolts that had the same threads and diameter as the ones for mounting the pedestal plate but were about 5 or 6 inches long, you could pull one of the pedestal bolts and replace it with a long one. Then pull all the other bolts and rotate the pedestal plate out of the way while it still has the bolt through it and put another long bolt into the backing plate only. Then remove first bolt that goes through the pedestal plate into the backing plate and get the pedestal plate lined up how you want it. Then put in the first long bolt through the pedestal and backing plates and remove the second long bolt. Then rotate the pedestal plate back into its new position and install the permanent bolts. Then pull the long bolt and install that permanent bolt.

Clear as mud, right? You're basically just using the two long bolts to give you handles for the backing plate, even though you don't have access to it. The longer the two long bolts are the better, but I'd keep the threads on those two bolts less than an inch long so that you can get the bolt to bite into the nut on the backing plate and rotate the plate if you need to. Those bolts would probably be a special order someplace.

[aug495fish]

I appreciate your thoughts. Thanks for taking the time to share them. I hadn't thought of the different length bolt option.

[TooTallTom]

I hadn't either, until right before I posted it. Like I said, this is helpful for me, too. So, thanks for asking the questions.

[aug495fish]

Another question for you, Tom.

What kind of seat mounts do you have? Do you have the ones that slide? If so, how much movement is there? I'm having a hard time finding any information about the distance they slide fore and aft.

I bought mounts that didn't slide but now that I have everything apart and see some limitations in where I can install the bases, I am thinking it might be nice to have the sliding option.

Thanks in advance for any help.

I'm glad my idiocy has been helpful for you!

[TooTallTom]

I just have fixed mounts. I really don't know anything about the sliders, but I imagine that how far they travel depends on the specific mount you're looking at. You should be able to see that on any kind of retail HSOforum/ store.

I just didn't want the extra torque on the bases from having the mounts all the way in one direction with someone sitting on them.

No sweat, not knowing something isn't idiocy. No one is born knowing everything. Except maybe teenagers, from what I hear.