1998 Chev 3.1 intake gasket leak fix...

[BoxMN]

Hi all, I know it has been discussed hear before, but the search won't find it for me - or I can't work the search properly

But my Malibu with 3.1 is leaking coolant again, I think from corner of intake. Had it fixed once just outside of warranty, but I think they did it with still old gasket. I believe the gaskets now are "better". I am going to try fixing it myself, with help of neighbor who knows what he is doing.

Any tips on special tools, or tricks, whatever, that I should be aware of? Or any specific part number of gasket I should get or stay away from? Just trying to keep this thing running so don't want to spend too much fixing it, but also don't want my wife blowing her up

Thanks for any advice!

[Jeremy airjer W]

The felpro kits are the ones that are rubber/metal. They seem to be working pretty well as we have yet to replace a set that have been installed.

Get the lisle tools rocker arm tool. This will allow you to remove the pushrods without having to pull the rocker arms and will save you a lot of time. Not to mention we used to have issues with the rocker arm bolts backing out after the job was complete especially if the job was torn down one day and reassembled the next.

Keep track of the pushrods they are different lengths! Failure to put them back in the correct position will result in bent valves!!!!!

Get a can of "The Right Stuff - Grey".

[BoxMN]

Thanks airjer! This will be a learning experience for me My buddy John did his wife's 3.8 last year, and thinks it should be similar.

Do I get the lisle tools rocker arm tool at NAPA or do I need to go to more specialty store?

Thanks!

[Jeremy airjer W]

They are two different animals. the 3.1 is much more difficult than a 3.8!

The lisle tool can be found just about anywhere that sells tools

[Big Buck Buster]

When you take the push rods out, just remember that the longer rods are for the exhaust valves, and the shorter ones are for the intake valves.

I would replace the oil pump drive o-ring while you have the intake off. Also put a 5.7L distributor gasket on the pump drive housing and you will not have an oil leak from there again.

[Jeremy airjer W]

Good tip

Plan on a T-stat, much easier to replace with the intake off, and if it has the quick disconnect for the heater tube down by the thermostat than replace that as well.

Be prepared to replace the water pump bypass hose and the throttle body hoses. Sometimes there fine and sometimes when you mess with stuff, well, stuff happens.

The kit should have the lower intake gaskets, Upper plenum gaskets, valve cover gasket, and water pump by-pass o-ring, along with some other misc. gaskets.

Before you install the lower intake bolts clean them up good and apply a little red thread lock

[BoxMN]

Thanks again guys. Do you know what the shop time is for this?

I just helped my buddy put the dash back in his 98 Dodge after installing a new heater core and fan (I only helped with the reassembly), and I think shop time said about 5 hours, and we were a couple hours over that. I think I might double the time for my project, and hope to hit that, ha!

[Jeremy airjer W]

off the top of my head its between 4 and 5 hours

[NIBOWMAN]

Use the Fel-pro MS98004T. It is the updated Perma-dry set.

[BoxMN]

Thanks agian guys. I got the gasket kit, but have not found the tool yet. Napa and Sears don't carry it, will try John's tomorrow.

Hey Big Buck Buster, regarding the 5.7L distributor gasket, what would I use that on? In place of the stock oil pump gasket on the 3.1? I have not done this before, so not sure on everything you guys are saying.

But good thing is my buddy did his wife's 3.4 not the 3.8, so it should be closer to my 3.1. We will tackle it Saturday and see how it goes

One thing I now know I shoudl have done is get the gasket kit and other parts and tool much earlier as the online prices are much better especially if you can get them together. I got a (insert big company) discount at Napa, but it didn't save much, maybe 5%... but $$ is $$

Thanks again for the advice! I appreciate it.

[Big Buck Buster]

On the oil pump drive housing, the factory has only the o-ring. The distributor gasket would go above where the o-ring is, then put a new o-ring on also. When you pull the pump drive out, you will see what I am talking about. The pump drive is basically like a distributor shaft that turns the oil pump in the pan, but with these motors, their is no distributor, so they have this stub shaft to turn the oil pump in the pan. You will see when you get it out, that there is a spot for it on the aluminum housing.

[Jeremy airjer W]

Harbor freight carries some lisle tools. The part number is 48500.

[BoxMN]

Thanks again guys! I found the tool after calling around a ton. Nobody has it, for anybody doing this, buy parts and tool ahead of time and save money by having it shipped out. I found it at Oreily, the only one anybody had left. $20.

Also got the:

oil pump o ring (dealer)

water pump by pass hose (oreily)

throttle body hose (dealer)

5.7L dist gasket (oreily)

Right Stuff Grey

gasket kit of course

t-stat

I think I am ready, and tomorrow will be nice and cool for working, and probably me swearing but I am looking forward to learning.

Thanks again - a ton!- for your help, I will post how it went!

[Big Buck Buster]

Don't forget the coolant, oil, and oil filter.

One other helpful tip: When you get ready to tear apart, drain the coolant by opening pet cock or by taking of lower hose. When you take of the upper hose, blow some shop air through the stat housing slowy to get rid of as much coolant from the intake and heads as possible. This will make it less likely to get coolant into the valley when you take off the lower intake. You may have to pack a shop rag around the air nozzle to make a seal, unless you have the rubber tip attachment for your air nozzle.

[BoxMN]

Well, we got it done. Took about 3 hours or so to get it all apart Friday night, and about 3 or 4 hours to get back together Saturday morning. The only thing we didn't do was the gasket and o ring on the oil pump drive, as it was so tight in there we couldn't get it to come out, and didn't want to force it. My buddy said since it was already done previously maybe they have put some permatex #2 or something on it to really hold it in place, who knows... hopefully that won't be an issue. It has not been leaking oil so far, hopefully will stay that way.

All I have to do now is drive it farther and then change oil. Haven't had chance to do that yet. I don't think I would tackle this job alone, without somebody that knows way more than me but it really wasn't that bad. The tool worked great. We also went to the library ahead of time and printed out the Alldata steps, and that really helped. Also John had "real tools" and we needed to get some of his good ones in a few places.

Thanks again for all your help! I appreciate it!!!

edit - oh yeah I put in new plugs since they were so easy to get at...

[Jeremy airjer W]

All I have to do now is drive it farther and then change oil. Haven't had chance to do that yet.

You don't want to drive it unless you changed the oil after you completed the job. These engines do not like any moisture in the oil. Failure to change the oil can lead to bearing failure.

[BoxMN]

I am glad I checked back here. I didn't drive it yet. Will change oil today. Thanks airjer.