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Help me design a Wheel House


Duke82

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I think you'll have a tough time getting 2 screws in the ends, but if you want to give it a try, it certainly won't hurt anything. I used 1 screw, and glue-PL Premium. You won't get those pieces to separate without breaking the wood, so the screw is more or less there to hold it in place until the glue dries.

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Got the walls made, and you were right it was a pain getting 2 screws in each 2x2 but I did. One other question i have for you guys is. What is the advantage or disadvantage of running the siding over the frame on the bottom? I've seen it both ways, i think it looks nicer run all the way down.

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Do yourself the favor and spray foam it the house. Spray foam adds an incredible amount of structual integrity. The cost outweighs the performance hands down. Ask anyone who has had there house foamed and if they have had any complaints. You won' find one.

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I plan on spray foam insulation just trying to find the lowest bidder right now. I am also looking for a heater I have one from a friend that is vented but the only thing I am not sure about is all the controls are electric so I am not sure if I want to deal with that. I think I would have to buy a inverter for it. The other option would be buy a ventless heater. Menards has one on sale right now for 150 it is made by ProCom and is 30,000 BTU it have a thermostat and gas sensore on it with a emergency shut off valve if it detecs gas. Not sure what way to go. Any ideas?

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If you want to sleep in it I would go with a vented heater. Evwey year you hear of a horror story from some place. In time safty devices go bad. One thing alot of people don't think about is having there heater checked out once and awhile by a trained person. Every one will go through all there fishing gear, make sure every thing is greased up and the batteries are good and every thing else in the house is working. They say the furnace worked when they checked every thing but there is so many things that could cause it to work one day and not the next. There are to many to mention here but it dose happen.

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Is 3/4" treated ply necessary or would 5/8" do? I just redid my snowmobile trailer and it had 5/8" on it, so that's what I put back on. Someone put a 3/4" sheet on the 5/8 pile at the big box store. I about died when I picked it up. Not that the 5/8 is light, but it's better than the 3/4. Thoughts? Maybe marine ply? I heard it's suppose to be lighter than green treat?

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Look into Advantech. I used it on my house (2010 Fish House Build), and I just started a house for a friend yesterday, and we are using it again. The product specs are pretty impressive, and I like the fact that you don't have to worry about the fasteners corroding as with the treated products.

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Ok after calling every spray foam guy in the area I came to the conclusion its too much money. The cheapest estimate I got was 600 dollars. So I went out and bought all the pink foam for it today on sale which costed me 180 dollars. Which gives me 3.5" on the ceiling 2in on the floor and 1.5in on the walls. My question to you guys is do you think 2in on the floor will be enough? I have room to put another inch down there if u guys think its important.

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Quote "ProCom and is 30,000 BTU"

Procom makes a good heater BUT! 30,000 btu is too much.(unless you plan on keeping the door open) smile I have a 30,000 and never have it above the #1 setting. i have a 8x12 permy and live in North Western Ontario.

10,000 or 20,000 would be good enough.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
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