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front dif. question


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i have a 93 chevy 1500 4x4. and pass. side front dif seal seems to be slightly leaking.. anyone know what is involved with taking the seal out? like do you have to take the whole dif apart or just pull the shaft out or something? any input would be great. thanks

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Do not just pull the pass. side out. There is a washer inside that will drop down, and you will not be able to get the shaft back in, and will destroy the washer.

Best way, is to drop the front diff. out and separate it. The five bolts on the pass. side, not the case bolts.

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I'll second that. Disassemble the passenger side housing from the differential. Once the housing/shaft assembly is dropped remove the shaft and then replace the seal.

Most of the time you can unbolt the c.v. axle from the shaft and have enough room to get the housing out without having to separate the knuckle and lower ball joint to remove the c.v. shaft.

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Honestly I don't remember exactly but it may work out to be easier for you to pull the hole diff. The axle has a lock ring and you have to wack the flange where the c.v. axle bolts to get it to release. Some of those can be a real bear! Having the hole thing on the ground would make it a little easier.

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ok so can i take the one side of the dif. off still in the truck or do i have to pull the entire dif. out to get at the seal?

If you have the truck up high enough of the ground on jack stands(assuming you are not using a hoist), you can remove the bolts on both cv shafts, remove the front drive shaft bolts, hang the drive shaft out of the way(you don't have to take the drive shaft completely out), remove the two bolts on the pass. side holding the diff to the frame, and the one bolt on top of the diff.(leave this one in till last) Just loosen the bolt at the rear of the diff, right below the yoke. You may have to remove the three bolts holding the steering sector to be able to move the steering rod far enough forward, and up, to be able to swing the diff down. When you have all the bolts mentioned above out, or loose, take a small jack under the diff, and take out the top bolt. Lower the jack, and it will swing down out. You may want to take the lower air dam out to make it a little easier to see(two bolts, swing it forward). You can then take the rear bolt out, or just split it in the truck. I prefer to take it all the way out and work on the floor or a bench.

Hint: Drain it first(less mess). whistle

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • got this tackled today took about 3 hours to get both sides done. Didnt even get to use a torch....   Thought I was golden with just jacking it up and I could get to everything but no luck. Had to remove the entire axle hub and brake assembly to get to what I needed. Was a pain but still better then taking off the entire pivot arm.    Axle bearings were already greased and in great shape thankfully. Got both leaf springs installed and its ready for the road again.   Probably going to have my electric brakes checked, I am not touching anything with the brake drums. Based on what I saw it doesn't look like my electric brakes have been working anyway. Brakes are nice to have if its slippery out
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    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
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