Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Tan Spots in my yard????


joe_stack20

Recommended Posts

Guys i dont know whats going on....but i have softball sized "Tan" spots...i dont dare say "dead" spots...I tried pulling up on one of the spots and it did NOT pull up easily...thinking they were grubs.....now i dont know what to think...i have seen this before on Golf Courses...and i asked the head maintance dude what the spots were....he called it "Snow Mold"...i am thinking it may be some sorta mold..but not quite sure on what...any suggestions?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ya there are dogs in my neighborhood....however this isnt a dog problem. picture leapord print tan spots...in a 6'X10' area. and well away from the road.. Thank s for the reply...i just dont know whats going on

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My 1st guess is "Summer Patch" or "Brown Patch". Both are a fungus caused by high humidity, warm day time temps (80+)and warm evening temps(65+). They are summer diseases, whereas snow mold is a winter disease and shows itself in the early spring. The "patches" really flourish under the above conditions, plus add in improper cultural methods (ie: watering too much, watering in the evening so the grass stays damp all night, high nitrogen content in the soil) and you have a veritable paradise for funguses. They can be treated with a fungicide effectively. Also begin proper watering by watering long and deep two-three times a week in the morning only. Reduce the amount of Nitrogen you apply to your lawn mid-summer and never water in the evening.

The other thing it could be if it's not in "rings" or "saucers", is sod web worm. They will cause all kinds of little brown dead patches as they eat away where the crown and root join. These turn into the little white moths you scare up out od your lawn each evening. Grub-X will eliminate those along with grubs, ants, fleas etc.

Good Luck!

Ken

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok what should i do...I am toldi might be over watering...and the other guy says more watering cured his problem???? I water 3-4 times a week...mostly in the evenings when i get home from work?? water each zone (6 zones) 40 minutes each. Maybe i am watering at the wrong time of the day??? I dont know....but i dont like the looks of this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This taken from the Penn State extension web site... you can go there and look at different diseases to see if any match yours.

Brown patch is a major summer disease of lawns and golf courses. The most susceptible grass species include perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, and the bentgrasses. Occasionally, brown patch becomes a problem on Kentucky bluegrasses in mid- to late-summer during extended periods of high temperature and humidity.

Disease cycle

The causal fungus overwinters in the form of resting bodies called sclerotia, either within infected grass tissue or in the soil. The fungus is capable of surviving in soil for years in the absence of a susceptible grass. Disease activity is prevalent when surface moisture and humidity are high, night temperatures are above 68° F and daytime temperatures average 80° F or above. Rainy weather and a saturated atmosphere (100 percent relative humidity) greatly speed disease development. Disease severity is greater on lush, succulent turfgrass maintained with high nitrogen levels than on grass maintained with moderate levels.

Cultural control

Applying nitrogen fertilizers on turf with a known history of brown patch during hot and humid weather may create the need for fungicide applications to control the disease. Removal of dew or guttation water that collects on the grass leaves each morning has proven effective as an aid in reducing brown patch. This removal can be achieved by mowing or by dragging a water hose across the area. Necesary watering should be done in time for the grass to dry before nightfall.

Chemical control

Fungicide treatment should only be needed on high-value ryegreass or bentgrass turfs. Fungicide treatment usually is made on a curative basis; the first spray should be applied immediately after the onset of symptoms, especially if prolonged hot, humid weather is expected. In areas where brown patch causes severe thinning on putting greens, preventative fungicide applications may be justified.

Good luck!

Ken

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.