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crankbait rod


M1dwestF1sh

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I've never used glass rods for cranks before but have heard good things. I just like the graphite specific action rods for cranks. With that said, I am getting a new deep diving specific rod and looking at the st croix mojo big crankster, but they have it in glass or graphite. Which do you guys think would be better. Both are mh 7'8" rods just ones glass. Paired with a bb1 reel. Any thoughts?

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Do they have any "big" rods? Im looking for 7'6" or longer and something with a mod. Action for some deep cranks. I guess rod recommendations around there would be nice. I love shimano rods but I didn't find any that size, maybe I'm not lookin hard enough.

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I never thought I would say anything good about St Croix rods in general but especially my MOJO bass med hvy Mod action 7 ft 6 in rod which I thought was a heavy club since I bought it, BUT, it casts anything on it a long ways. I might even buy another. It is heavy though.

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Glass rods do have some trade-offs. They're great for hooking fish because they give a little when a fish hits and when you set the hook, so you don't miss many fish. Once a fish is hooked they're very forgiving so fish don't get slack line with a big bait and small hooks in their face, so fish stay hooked better.

The downside most often cited is weight, but with a good quality glass rod the difference isn't huge, and weight matters less than balance, which is what most guys really have issues with when they talk about a rod being too heavy - especially a long cranking rod. Balance it right with the right reel or a butt weight and they don't feel any heavier than a graphite rod because they're balanced correctly. I have a 7'5" glass cranking rod that feels tip heavy as all get out with a light reel on it, but put a heavier reel like a Revo Winch or CVZ-100A on it and it balances beautifully.

The issue I have with glass cranking rods in MN isn't the weight, it's that they are too slow when you're trying to snap weeds off a bait. They just don't have the blank speed to snap off coontail or cabbage.

If you crank with braid, that becomes way less of an issue, and you might need the softer, slower glass to balance out the no stretch of braid. Cranking with braid and a graphite rod is a good way to lose more fish than you need to in my experience. The one glass rod I do use with some regularity is spooled with 20# braid.

As to which to choose, my answer is both. I've been using glass/graphite composite rods for the last few years and they really are the best of both worlds. You have some of the forgiveness of glass but still have the responsiveness and sensitivity of graphite. After using them for a while I doubt I could go back to one or the other. I use a 7'11" MH mod-fast Powell for most of my cranking, and love it. But the Shimano cranking rods with the TC4 blanks are awfully good, pretty readily available, and come in a bunch of different models and price ranges. Makes it easy to find what you want.

I do prefer a long rod for most deep cranking BTW. I have a 7' mod-fast Heavy composite I use for lipless cranks and a few other things, but the rest of the time I'm using either a 7'5" or more often a 7'11". The additional length helps with casting distance, and definitely makes fighting fish easier at the end of a long cast.

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I've been searching and waiting for an e-glass cranking rod for around $75 to pair with my old silver calcutta 100. I've seen many s-glass, composite, and graphite crankin rods in stores for sale, but I'm really only interested in what e-glass can do even though I've never used one.

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Powell is closing out the Endurance and Max lines to make way for a new series, and TW is closing them out. That, plus their Labor Day sale makes for some swingin' deals right now. The Max 706CB and the Endurance 775 CB, which is a composite, are both great rods.

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The KVD Tour does have e-glass in it though, I thought it was graphite/s-glass. I may have to go check in at walmart to see if they have it on sale, I know they had some KVD rods last time i was there. I really like the micro guides that the tour rods have. I have a Falcon Bucoo casting and spinning rod with micro guides.

The Powell Max is a s-glass blank and some are graphite Maxumfiber, the Endurances are composite graphite/glass mixed blanks or s-glass fiberglass.

I think the Daiwa Tatula is the only e-glass rod that TW has. The description says "advanced E-Glass blank constructions" so it may be a composite. Has anyone used this rod? The 15% off doesn't apply to Daiwa products unfortunately.

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