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02 caravan 3.3 no blower motor


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no blower in any speeds.has soon has you plug the motor in all voltage is gone every thing coming out of the switch seems to be working.top right wire[blue]at the resistor goes back to the switch as black with a green tracer this dont make sence to me plus the wiring diagram only shows four wires going to the resistor wich has six wires.

he told me he also has no turn signals and the horn would go off when it wanted to.

thanks for any input on this

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This is a ground side controlled system meaning the switch controls the path to ground rather than supplying power to the blower motor.

full-243-5076-02caravanblower.jpg

With everything plugged in and the key in the run position there should be power on the drk blue wire to the resistor and the black wire to the blower. If there is than use a jumper wire to ground the dark green at the resistor. If the blower motor doesn't work swap the blower motor relays

If the blower works when grounded than ground the DRK Blue w/grey wire at the resistor. If the blower motor doesn't work replace the resistor.

If the blower motor works check the ground wire for the switch in the control head. If it is good than the switch in the control head would be bad.

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no blower in any speeds.has soon has you plug the motor in all voltage is gone every thing coming out of the switch seems to be working.top right wire[blue]at the resistor goes back to the switch as black with a green tracer this dont make sence to me plus the wiring diagram only shows four wires going to the resistor wich has six wires.

he told me he also has no turn signals and the horn would go off when it wanted to.

thanks for any input on this

My wife's '02 Durango had the same thing happen twice. Both times it was a fried resistor board. The 2nd time the dealer up-sized the hot wire to the board as well. Most Mopar dealers know about this by now...Hope that helps.

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I got voltage drop on the solid blue wire to the resistor 12.6 volts with meter but it wont light a test light. checked the power at the fuse 12.6 on the hot side butt i also have 6vlts on the other side with out a fuse in place. looks like im pulling the fender to see if there a rotted conection between the fire wall and the pdm.

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Stupid corrosion!

Its a good thing you used a test light. the volt meter will show 12 volts all day long on a corroded connection. The load of the test light was enough to pull the current down and give you the dim light.

This scenario is exactly why I check for power to just about everything with the device plugged in. If there is a corrosion issue it will only show up with the load of the device on the circuit. With the device unplugged you would see 12 volts until the battery went dead.

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