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Strikemaster bogs down & dies

52#FLATHEAD

By 52#FLATHEAD
in Ice Fishing

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52#FLATHEAD Collaborator

52#FLATHEAD

Posted
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This will be the 2nd season for my Strikemaster, drilled under 200 holes total. It has the Tecumseh engine & was started up once every month during the off season. I have run all the "old" gas out of it & have a fresh fuel mix w/ the strikemaster oil. It never did want to idle out of the box & I have adjusted that screw so it does idle now. When I have the choke 1/2 closed it runs great if I feather the throttle till it's at full speed. But if I have the choke somewhere 1/2 closed to open it bogs down & dies when I give it throttle, even when feathered. The air cleaner is dry & clean, like new. Any ideas what's wrong?

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hamms-scooter Veteran

hamms-scooter

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Sounds like my brother inlaws. They changed the carb setting at the factory cause of emmisions. Never worked for them. If you bring it in to big lake they will fix it free of charge i'm sure. Do yourself another favor and stop using that oil and get amsoil sabre pro. Mix it 80:1 and that will also help you big time!

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hanson Grand Master

hanson

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Sounds like my brother inlaws. They changed the carb setting at the factory cause of emmisions. Never worked for them. If you bring it in to big lake they will fix it free of charge i'm sure. Do yourself another favor and stop using that oil and get amsoil sabre pro. Mix it 80:1 and that will also help you big time!

I haven't posted about this issue in a few years so my specifics may be a bit off. But from what I understand, these motors were jetted and tuned to pass emissions testing at 70 degrees or something like that. Well... ever cut a hole at 70 degrees? Not too often. When you drop the air temp down to 0-20 or so where these engines normally operate, they are starving for fuel. I saw these augers all over on the ice 3-4 years ago... brand new Strikemasters bogging down or stalling while cutting holes.

Talk to the snowmobilers running carbed sleds about re-jetting for optimum performance. Air temp & altitude affect sled motors big time and you have to rejet the carbs for the right temp and/or altitude as it affects fuel/air mixture.

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hanson Grand Master

hanson

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Look at this post http://www.hotspotoutdoors.com/forum/ubb...dli#Post2433158

I repair some of these and 90% of the time its that clogged screen.

Even when they are brand new? The OP said has hasn't run right out of the box. Which was the case with many, many Strikemasters sold a couple years ago.

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TubaDr Contributor

TubaDr

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Double check you throttel possition my Mac III ahd the throddle set to max out at half open the problems you are describing is the same as the ones I was having. I went to SM in Big Lake and they showed me what was wrong. I still had a carb kit put in but my machien is older and I'm sure it was due.

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fishnhooks Proficient

fishnhooks

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The one I bought last year did the same thing. Brought it to SM and they said that it was because of the emissions. They took it in the shop and gave it back saying I would not have that problem anymore. It has been running great since.

"hooks"

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TyGuy02 Rising Star

TyGuy02

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I know my strikemaster STRUGGLES with with first hole, but after that it works like a charm. I can hold mine full throttle without drilling to warm it up before my first hole and once it catches the resistence of the ice it bogs, but doesn't die. It used to die but I think I adjusted the throttle last year.

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Eelpout08 Community Regular

Eelpout08

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If it is the same model as i am thinking of the only way to adust the main jet fuel mixture is to bend the needle valve rocker arm up or down, it is kind of a bugger cause the carb has to be dissasembled to 'adjust' it, put back together, then run to see if it needs more adusting. i finally got it running great after about 7 trys.

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Surface Tension Grand Master

Surface Tension

Posted
Posted

Starving for fuel.

Why could be a long list of reasons.

Your carb is a diaphragm type carb with internal fuel pump.

Even though there isn't a float there is a fuel level. To set that the carb is taken apart . You have an inlet valve(needle and seat)that maintains the amount of fuel coming into the carb. To do that there is a lever on top the needle, a pin to hold that lever and act as a fulcrum. The other end of the lever goes up or down on the action of a diaphragm. The level is set by gently bending that tang on the lever over the needle. The correct level would be the end of lever that extends to the center of the carb body. That should be set level with the floor of the carb body.

Fuel Pump:

As I mentioned this is part of your diaphram carb.

This is a series of diaphragms in between the stacks in the carb.

They can stretch out and were out.

Loose Fuel Line and sucking air.

Loose or bad carb to intake gasket.

Dirty Carb.

Depending on model, mixture screws and tuning.

Dirty screen inside tank.

So it is hard to nail down the issue without having the auger to look and listen too.

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52#FLATHEAD Collaborator

52#FLATHEAD

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Thanks for the help guys. I took the carb apart & found the diaphragm w/ the silver disc on it is very hard & doesn't flex very well. I adjusted the tabs on the needle lever it works much better now. I checked the carb over & it is spotless, near new. Nothing was loose or worn & the fuel pump diaphragm is like new. The screen in the gas tank is clear, hoses are good & tight.

Are parts available for these Tecumseh carbs?

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