Roofing Questions

[lindy rig]

This weekend I will be attempting to shingle the shed I just built. I bought 4 bundles of Timberline 30yr (architectural shingles) and 1 bundle of the "Hip and Ridge" for the peak.

I have been doing some google searches, but still have questions. Can anyone recommend a good how-to HSOforum for this?

What exactly is the "starter strip"? A particular piece I will see when I open the package? Something I need to make or modify myself?

[flyfisher03]

A starter strip is basically half of a shingle. I think you can purchase them but you could just cut the tabs off of the shingles and make your own.

This looks like a decent HSOforum

Note: Sorry your link doesn't work nor is it allowed.

[Surface Tension]

Buy another bundle of regular shingles and use that for your starter coarse. Flip them mineral side down and score them with you blade taking the tabs off. Snap a straight line at the eve that will leave you a 1" overhang. Yes One Inch! If your not using drip edge run up the gable ends and again give it 1" overhang.

Find the center of the roof at the eve and and mark it. Don't use the same measurement at the peak, find the center and mark it. Snap a line. Lay the starter coarse so that your not starting at that center line, your first coarse gets put there so if your understanding that first coarse and starter are staggered.

From this point on you'll have the directions on the bundle of shingles.

You could measure peak to eve one both ends to see if they differ. If they do you'll make small adjustments on your coarses to account for that. As you lay the coarse you'll check that measurement from time to time and make adjustments if necessary..

[lindy rig]

Thank you both. Due to the changing weather this past weekend, I was only able to lay the paper and put the roof edges on as you guys described in my other post. So, I still have to shingle.

What does the starter course do?

If it has to do with adhesion, could I get away without doing a starter course and take some sealant (blackjack) or something and put that along the eave edge?

[sdpikehntr]

The main objective of the starter strip is to hold the bottom of the shingle down to the roof. As stated earlier you can get starter strips, they will come in a roll or in a bundle. Most lumber yards will have a bundle that has been opened and will sell you the length amount you need. This is by far the easiest way to do it. just make sure that the tar strip in at the roof edge and you can nail a few inches above the tar edge.

If you cannot get the starter strip, as mentioned before, you can take a 3 tab shigle and cut the tab portion off the shigle and leave the tar strip on the top half of the shigle and use it as the starter.

The nice thing is about the type of shingle you are using is that you don't have to worry about the tabs lining up.

Good Luck

[BobT]

Another reason for the starter is to prevent exposed sheathing to the elements. Using three-tab shingles you'd leave 1/4" of exposed sheathing with each tab on the first row. Laying a shingle upside down (still sand side up) you provide a shingled surface with no gaps to expose the sheathing. The advantage of the rolled starter is it will be totally seamless whereas making it using shingles will still mean you have seams every three feet.

What I've never understood is why cut off the tabs when making your own starter? They will just be under the shingles anyway.

[lindy rig]

Thanks - it's making sense now

With the paper down, will I be OK if it rains once or twice before I get the shingles on?

[FishLocker]

Cut the tabs off and install agregate up and cut end at roof edge, so that you have the tar from the middle of the shingle now lined up at the bottom edge of the roof. When you nail on the first row of shingles, the tabs "glue down" to that tar. You will not have lifting problems from the wind. As long as the wind doesnt tear your paper, you will be ok through a rain or 2. Have fun!

[Surface Tension]

You have to have a single under the first coarse.if you didn't it will leak at the joints. So no you can't get away with black jack instead of a starter coarse. Remember that the first coarse and starter joints are staggered.

Every part of a single that is exposed has a single under it. That is true for the first coarse as well. That lap is what make it shed water, it also adds the bulk to the roof.

[Ryan_V]

a shed should be pretty easy. I did my 25 square roof this weekend. I had a guy that's done a few roofs and knew his stuff helping me. Lets just say I'm now retired from roofing!! Man that was alot of work. Of course a couple days in there the weather didn't cooperate!! Didn't realize how big my roof was until we got up there and started tearing it all down!!! I'm glad I did it though, now I have some knowledge about roofing under my belt.

[BobT]

Roofing is harder work than most people realize, especially on flatter pitches. A friend of mine is a contrator in Hibbing and the only time he takes on roofing projects is when he has nothing else to do and is hungry for the work. It is especially hard on your back due to the angles your working on. Steeper roofs are easier because you're able to stand up straighter.

[sdpikehntr]

I disagree, The flatter the roof the better. Yes yor back may get a work out... But the steeper the roof, every thing you set down slides, you need to move toe-holds, and it take twice as long, I do roofing as a second job and I charge $160/square for 6/12 to 8/12 and go $240 up to $400/ square for 9/12 to beyond 12/12, just due to the difficulty.

A Shed at a 4/12 should only take a few hours, Good Luck.

[Ryan_V]

I never realized how difficult it is!, but like I said, i'm glad I did it. I'll have no problem helping someone with their roof, but not sure I'd tackle my own again. Glad I had a friend who had tons of knowledge!! gonna go up there with a chair and have a coors light!!

[Surface Tension]

If you do it every day its easy.

Flatter the roof the harder it is on the knees and legs. Steeper and you have to mess with roof jacks. I've done plenty of 10/12 and 12/12 at 2 1/2 stories that when a one story 4/12 came along I'd just about do it for free.

[Ryan_V]

If you do it every day its easy.

Flatter the roof the harder it is on the knees and legs. Steeper and you have to mess with roof jacks. I've done plenty of 10/12 and 12/12 at 2 1/2 stories that when a one story 4/12 came along I'd just about do it for free.

Wish I would have known that!!! I would definetly have called you up!! I'll remember that for next time for sure!!

[spearchucker]

Thanks - it's making sense now

With the paper down, will I be OK if it rains once or twice before I get the shingles on?

I'm glad you are getting it figured out, but I would have researched all of this before even attempting to tear off. I wouldn't leave paper exposed for any longer than you have to, but at least it is just a shed.

[lindy rig]

I'm glad you are getting it figured out, but I would have researched all of this before even attempting to tear off

This wasn't a tear off, it was new construction. Trying to learn each step as I go. I did a 6/12 pitch and my first couple minutes up there were interesting! Got comfortable pretty quick though. Thanks to all who chimmed in, sure helps a guy out. By the way, I got all the shingles done last night at 8pm - just before the rain came! Got lucky for a change!!

[spearchucker]

Glad you got it done. It is pretty straight forward until you get to valleys and things like that.

[soldoncass]

BobT,

For years we turned shingles around, and used them for starters, without cutting them....until a couple houses had problems. They were 3 tab shingles and the tabs were blowing up, because they couldn't seal down (no tar there). After crawling around with a tar gun, sealing them down, we decided to do it right.....cut the tabs off, and put them on right side up, so the tar strip did what it was designed to do. When they are stacked on top of each other, as the OLD WAY was ,there was always a bump in the shingles you could see. The right way eliminates that also. The newer (non tab) shingles still have a "right way" too, and it includes a tar strip under to seal them together. The companies are explicit about where the nails should be also, and it voids the warantee if not done correctly(according to them).