660 Griz 4wd not working

[Carpenter]

Anyone have some troubleshooting pointers for the 4x4 system on a 660 Grizzly? It's an 03. If I put it in 4wd neither front tire spins, if i put it in lock-out, just the front left spins. So i'm thinking something with the front right but i don't know where to start. I'm good at fixing the wheeler, but would rather not rip the whole thing apart if it's something easy. thanks for any help.

[Dozer]

I would bet it something in the front diff. There is a motor that moves the gears into place to put it in 4wd or 4wd lock. It moves half way when you switch to 4wd and the rest of the way to 4wd lock. Turn the key on and flip the switch to 4wd, you should hear the motor moving, then flip the switch to 4wd lock and it should move again. If it doesnt you have problems. If it doesnt move when you put it in 4wd but moves when you put it in 4wd its probably the switch. If you can hear it moving both times you probably have problems in the diff. Try this and let us know what you find. Ive got an 05 grizzly that I know like the back of my hand!

[Carpenter]

Thanks Dozer, I knew you'd be able to help. it might have to wait til next weekend. I have the service manual and it looks like there are some relays in the system too. just going to have to start digging into it. i'll check to see if i hear the motor with each switch movement. thanks much!

[Dozer]

I had problems with mine once but it turned out the front diff was half full of mud and metal! Witch wasnt allowing the syncro to slide. Turned expensive in a hurry!

[Carpenter]

Hey Dozer, should hear anything when I turn the 4wd on? (turn key on, engine off, push button) like an actuator motor, click, anything?

[Dozer]

Yes, only with the key on you should hear an electic motor in the front diff moving everytime you push the button.

There is a plastic case on the back of the diff witch houses the actuator. If I remeber right there are 3 allen head bolts holding the plastic case on. On mine one of these bolts needed a special wrench to remove so I used a vice grip and replaced it with a regular allen bolt.

[Carpenter]

Thanks Dozer. I'll be working on it tomorrow since it's getting nice out and i have a "free" weekend

Another question, if i have the wheeler jacked up, and the diff motor engages, what "should" happen when I spin a wheel? should it be different when in standard 4wd vs. locked out?

[Carpenter]

Maybe i should clarify so no-one says "the wheel should turn". Should the opposite wheel rotate? forward/backward, or both forward?

[Dozer]

If you have just the front wheels off the ground and in 4wd you should be able to spin one forward and the other will go backwards. If its in 4WD lock you shouldnt be able to spin any wheels without moving the wheeler.

Sometimes it takes a movement to get the gears to line up to go into 4wd or 4wd lock.

[Carpenter]

thanks again. i'll let you know the damage tomorrow. i hope it's easy! doubt it though

[Carpenter]

OK Dozer, the actuator seems to work. I can hear it move. When I put it in 4wd and lift the front end, both wheels spin freely of each other. if i lock it out i hear the actuator move again. the front left is locked and won't move but the front right spins freely. thinking a shredded the gears?? looks like a pain in the rear to get that gearbox out. know where to find a decent (probably used) front end?

[Dave S]

Have you dropped the gear oil out of your front diff? If the gears are toast, there will be metal shavings in your oil.

[Carpenter]

Read you post LEP7MM and thought...duh. Just pulled the plug. Oils in great shape (since i just changed it last fall or summer) but the magnet had metal shavings. Thinking that's my answer. Any hints to changing them out? Do I need to take the entire gearbox out? That'll suc.

[Carpenter]

the shavings are just that. it's not chunks like i thought it would be. looked up the diff gear online and it 5-600!! labor to rip into it is 150-250.

anyone want an 03 660 2wd! has plow, winch & 589's!! Could package w. 05 popo w. plow n winch. it's always worked for me (sorry Dozer, i know you like the Griz)

[Dozer]

Well that doesnt sound good. I would take it out and see whats really going on in there. Could be a bent shift fork. I can have mine out in 30 to 45 min but Ive had it out a couple times, you have to take the a-arms off to get the mounting bolts out. Then you have to slide if forward to get the driveshaft off and it will slide out the side. It helps if you take the front skid plate off too.

Check Highlifter, theres a guy that goes by the name Ball that parts them out, or check the e-beigh.

[Dozer]

(sorry Dozer, i know you like the Griz)

Dont worry about me! Im not brand loyal at all, Ive got a grizz now but Im not saying the next one will be the same. Can you say AC MUDPRO!!

[Carpenter]

I ripped the diff out today. I don't know about 45 min though Dozer!

I think the issue is my front right axle. Should the end of the axle look like this? or should it have splines all the way to the end? I'm thinking either it wasn't in far enough or it came out. I didn't break the diff apart, but it looked pretty good when we took it out. and there wasn't that much metal in the bottom. Let me know what you think.

[Macgyver55]

The axle was not in all the way! It should be splined all the way to the end and usually has a split ring in a groove near the end to hold it in. You'll need a new cv axle or inner stub for sure, and probably the part inside that it slides into.

There are new ones on the big auction site for 159. It looks like where it snaps in is part of the limited slip assy. You dont want to know what the price of that one is.....

[Dozer]

Well theres your problem! Yes there should be a clip in that groove. Looks like your axle popped out and was driving on just those splines on the end. Going to at least need a new axle, Im not sure if you can buy just in inner joint. I would take that diff apart and see what it looks like inside, that clip is in there somewhere. See what the mating spline looks like and go from there, might not be as bad as you think.

[Macgyver55]

The very end of the mating internal spline inside will surely be damaged some, the question is how badly. In looking at the pictures online it looks like the right side goes into the limited slip assy which runs over 500 bucks. It would surely be good to not need that. Hopefully with some patience and a small file the splines could be dressed well enough to get it to fit.

[Carpenter]

We ripped the entire thing apart. I cleaned the entire inside of the diff w/o any big chunks visible, only metal dust. The gears inside look great. So for now I put it all back together until i can get a new axle. i pushed the axle in, felt it click and the 4wd is working (for now). I think i know what happened. I was coming off the lake, hit the shore, caught some air and the suspension extended pulling the axle out enough that it rounded the splines. either way, it's working now but it's going to get a new axle as i don't trust it and i don't want to buy the $500 diff! thanks for all the help guys!

[Macgyver55]

Keep a good eye on it, without the retainer ring the axle can slide back out easily. The ring is all that keeps it from coming out.

[Dozer]

Personaly I wouldn't run it like that. The only thing holding that axle in is that clip. If that axle comes out its going to be bad!

[Carpenter]

I'll be getting the new axle. the ring is there, it's just the end of the splines that were shot. Maybe when I replaced the CV boot last year I didn't get it in all the way?? But I rode it after that. I felt it click this time. I feel the same way though. 150 for the axle is better than 1500 (or more) for all new everything!!

thanks for all the help guys!

[Carpenter]

partially removed the diff and took out the front right axle. this time it took about 30 minutes Dozer! easier when you know what you're doing. the new axle is scheduled for delivery tomorrow. bought it on e beigh. 159 shipped. it's the 04 series which is beefier.