Toy hauler build

[vtx1029]

I'm starting to build my first wheel house. The plan is an 8x 16 + 4'v toy hauler.

here is the new frame 

 

Frame is stripped for galvanize 

[vtx1029]

Worked a little on the roof trusses they have a 2" rise both top and bottom. I cut the template on my CNC router and then trimmed them out using a guide template I made for the bandsaw.

 

[Lip_Ripper Guy]

The toy hauler door is a very simple, but great, concept!  I like it.

What are the two pieces behind the wheels?  Jack supports?

 

Edited August 3, 2016 by Lip_Ripper Guy

[vtx1029]

I copied the design from my old enclosed trailer. Time will tell how the hinges work out. That is 1" thick tube, I really wanted 1.25-1.5 but I couldn't find any h trim that would work. I'll use a overhead torsion spring to help with the weight. 

 

Yep electric jacks, I really wanted hydraulic but it wasn't in the budget. Maybe build # 2

 

[vtx1029]

Got the frame back today from galvanize. Added 90 lbs. 

 

[Moon Lake Refuge]

How did you mount your electric jacks?  We're switching to them soon.  Any close up pice of them? 

[vtx1029]

It's a 3" round tube with a 2x2 square tube welded to the frame with a 1/4 flat plate.

 

[vtx1029]

So two questions for you guys that have been here before. 

 

First my frame was vented on both sides of the frame for galvanize. While I don't care about the top hole I was a little worried about the bottom holes having water melt up inside and freezing the frame down. So I'm thinking of plugging the holes. Was thinking of covering the bottom with packing tape and filling with the closed cell great stuff or pure silicone or a combination of both. Any input?

 

second is hole placement, any do's or don't? 

 

[Boar]

just food for thought, I have to holes in my castles right by the wheels, these hole are the hardest to keep open cause its tought to get a good banking behind the wheels, although I set my house on 4 inch blocks, which is a factor, even when I had it right on the ice is was hard to keep them open, and I just hated packing snow back there. this year I'm going with wheel well covers. but when I upgrade, not sure if Ill have holes by the wheel wells..food for thought.

[Moon Lake Refuge]

Another thing, your a little limited base on how the frame is built but I would actually get a couch or a chair of similar size in there to see how it will fit.  Had ours measured off on paper and based on what we had seen but after getting the couches built, the holes would have been right under our feet.  Will be moving them out a bit for more comfortable fishing.  

[Lip_Ripper Guy]

I'd do one of two things:

1) Seal all of them entirely.  I don't know if foam is the way to do this (on the inside of the tubing).  I'd probably go the silicone route.

2) Seal the top holes (duct tape should be fine), and leave the bottom open.  Any water/condensation that gets in will have a place to drain.

[YettiStyle]

1.)  I would seal all the bottom holes for sure.  Great stuff will just fill the whole void and I don't think you would get a good seal.  Silicone would work but not sure how long it will last.  Another option would be grinding off the galvanize just around the holes and plugging the holes with the welder. 

2.)  Hole covers - I don't know if you can return the covers you got but if you can you should.  The durability of the ones you have are not very good.  I've seen lots of people having problems with the handles and the lids breaking with lots of weight (atvs).  Little bit more money upfront but catch covers are the way to go.  Much more quality of a product and the accessories are nice- hole sleeves and safety covers.  http://www.catchcover.com/

3.)  Hole placement - I think the number one factor here is keeping enough room between the hole and the walls.  Really depends on what you have personally for an auger but keep in mind the size of your powerhead and which way your exhaust points when you're drilling holes.  Also makes for removing slush easier when you have some room between the hole and wall.  Boar is right about having freezing problems with holes near the wheel well but I wouldn't worry about it too much.  As long as you have a little space between the wall and the hole there are some little tricks to keep those holes nice and open.  1.)  Hole sleeves - these make a big difference keeping holes open on cold windy days.  2.)  Pack slush around hole - use the ice chips/slush when your drilling and pack it around the hole before you insert the hole sleeve.  3.)  Bank as much as possible around the outside of your shack and behind your tire.  DONT use slush or anything wet around or behind your tire.  It will freeze and you will have problems getting your shack back up. 

As far as where you place your other holes, it really depends on the layout of your shack.  Based on your placement now, it appears you are placing a dinette in the rear?  In the front maybe you'll have a couch against one of the walls?  Placement all depends on how you fish and what makes you comfortable.  I'm 6'4" so I made my couches bigger than usual just because It's more comfortable to me.  Off the top of my head I believe they are 22" deep and 17" tall with a 4" cushion on top.  Easiest thing to do is sit on either a couch/chair/coffee table and get out your favorite ice rod.  Let the line out, close your eyes, and hole your rod to where you feel most comfortable jigging.  Open your eyes and measure where you line is at on the floor - that will be the center of your holes.  Also keep in mind on the style of fishing you do and your water clarity.  I kept my holes fairly close to my couches because I frequently fish in some clearer water with the opportunity to see the fish on the bottom (12 FOW).  Makes a big difference if your able to look straight down comfortably from the couch when coaxing a 13" perch. 

 

[vtx1029]

Thanks for the input I didn't even realize they weren't catchcovers na really can't send them back. Looks like they are ice castles own brand? Hopefully they are the same size and I could just swap them out if I have a problem. 

 

no worries on an auger I run a nils with my drill, cuts like a hot knife thru butter 

 

Yep dinette in back and a couch on the street side 

[vtx1029]

Got some walls up. Should make some good progress now that I have a garage to use for a month. Should be long enough for me to shell it in.

 

[vtx1029]

2x3's using 16oc, the front stud pocket is about 10" so it makes the next one look wrong.

[vtx1029]

just about done with framing. 

[Lip_Ripper Guy]

I can't tell, but if you haven't done so, drill out holes for all your wires before you put siding and the roof on.  Unless you like busted knuckles  

[vtx1029]

No I have not, good call! 

[vtx1029]

Does anyone have one of these you could give me the overall width and length? All I can find is the cut-out dimension.

[Moon Lake Refuge]

39 minutes ago, vtx1029 said:

Does anyone have one of these you could give me the overall width and length? All I can find is the cut-out dimension.

When in doubt, just give the manufacturer a quick call.  They will give you the exact dims of whichever model you are looking at.  Lot of good info on these forums but when I want dims I always try and get it from the manual or manufactur just to be safe.

[vtx1029]

Making some progress, roof trusses are in roof ply is on and the siding is going on. A little nerve racking cause if I screw up well let's not go there. Can't wait to peel the wrap off. 

 

[vtx1029]

PL premium. I tacked the top with some staples and the diamond plate will over lap the bottom some. Time will tell if the bond holds. Worse case I will have to screw it down...

[vtx1029]

What are people using to seal between the siding and windows flange? Butyl tape or silicone or??

[Moon Lake Refuge]

13 minutes ago, vtx1029 said:

What are people using to seal between the siding and windows flange? Butyl tape or silicone or??

Taped ours on then used a little non expanding foam between the window and steel studs 

[vtx1029]

VHB tape?