Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Sandy bays on LOW


Scoot

Recommended Posts

I'm still relatively new to the sklunge game, so excuse me for asking what I assume is a pretty basic question.

On LOW I've found most of my sklunges on rocky shorelines and classic looking points and fingers. Cabbage beds on shorelines have also produced lots of lookers and takers. However, I've not been fishing the sandy bays that face West as many people on here talk about. My understanding is that these bays tend to have cabbage growth and therefore often hold fish. Is that right? How deep is the cabbage in these areas? I assume the typical approach to fishing these areas is to get outside the cabbage and fish over and through it. Why haven't I noticed cabbage in several West facing bays on LOW that I can think of? Is it deeper than I'm looking?

------------------
Scoot

RodsbyEngel: custom made fishing rods

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cabbage in the bays will be typically the same feature wise as the cabbage you find on shorelines.

Last year alot of the bays did not get great cabbage growth do to the low water. A lot of normally great spots were completely void of cabbage, bays and saddles.

If you are getting action on shoreline cabbage your presentation will work in bays.

Not all bays for some reason or the other will have cabbage, it is a bit of a hunt to find the good ones. Generally once a good one, always a good one.

The only different cabbage is the red tobacco cabbage. You will find smaller beds here and there. Its worth fishing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another sandy bay question- do these bays produce for as long as the cabbage is good? Or... do they quite producing after the water warms up a little?

------------------
Scoot

RodsbyEngel: custom made fishing rods

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Scoot;

My personal expirience is that these bays warm up faster than the rest of the water. They can gain 10 degrees on a good sunny day.

With that said, they are great "early season" locations..........all the way through mid-July. Kinda pends on each season, whether the weather is warm or cold for the "year"..........get it???

Come mid-July, they will still hold fish. But then I tend to work points and saddles that are adjacent to deep water (20 to 30 feet........if not more). I have found these areas..........which do relate to these west bays.........to hold the super tunas.

Doug Johnson turned me on to this. Then, after working it a bit and putting all the puzzle pieces together, I found myself on one of his top spots..........as he scowled at me with a bit of a grin........uh-oh!!! grin.gif

Now, any sandy bay won't work. These places have to relate with the fishes habitat, feeding, and spawning. Last week, we fished areas that were no more than 1 mile from spawning areas. Thanks Doug!!! (He was at the same lodge we were and passed on some generic advice that we were able to decipher).

For example.........We fished one island, that had a 100 yard stretch of boulder rocky shoreline. It had some small pocket bays and small points juting out under the water. It all led to a sandy bottom. (Avoid "baldface" or "smooth" rock, Boulders are the ticket). Just out from this stretch was a small reef, about 100 yards from shore. On this west facing sandy bay, with boulders, pocket bays, points, with tons of small cabbage pockets and lots of reeds..........we raised 4 muskies on one pass..........

Now............Again...........Take me there in Mid-July, when the water is alot warmer..........I won't spend a lot of time there.........I will be looking for deeper saddles and points that lead to deeper water........BUT not far from these areas!!!!!!!

Happy Hunting!!!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I generally agree with Big G....

There however will always be some fish in the cabbage on LOTW as long as it is green. Weeds produce oxygen...which starts the food chain.

The problem is they can be difficult to fish efficiently as they become very thick on top.

Some of these can be fantasic as the sun goes down and fish have to move back out to the edge as the oxy levels drop. Fish that were very difficult to access are now very accessible. These can also be very good in the morning.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.