Vapor barrier for wheelhouse

[c0untryf1sh3r]

I saw a picture of the inside of someones wheelhouse on here and noticed a chunk of plastic hanging from the ceiling which is what I would imagine is a vapor barrier. Is that something my buddy and I should have thought of, amidst the haze of too many cold ones , before finishing his wheelhouse? Would a barrier slow the warping of the paneling he chose to finish it with?

[SleeperOz]

If your insulation is closed cell foam, either spray foam or the pink/blue sheets, then a vapor barrier is not indicated. But, if you installed fiberglass insulation, a vapor barrier is an absolute must! Good luck and hope this helps out.

[LindellProStaf]

Moisture barriers is a directional barrier. It stops the flow in 1 direction. In regular houses the vapor barrier is to keep moisture from getting into the house. In fish houses the moisture is inside the house. Winter air is dry. To get the best moisture removal from your walls I think no moisture barrier is the best in a fish house so it can breath in both directions dry out. I talked to a salesman who sells the most common moisture barrier (T-V)and he did not want it in his fish house so it would breath out. If it is installed like a regular house it is stopping the flow of moisture and actually trapping it IN the house where the moisture is... Therefore it will rot your wood faster. And also steel and alum studs transfers the moisture faster so you will have more problems in the future. The biggest problem is to use fiberglass insulation. It will be like a sponge as time goes on and will collect water and drop to the floor and rot out big time.

[c0untryf1sh3r]

Thanks for the input, he wanted to go low budget since he picked up the house for $400 so we went with the 2" white foam board that we got for a steal from menards. I'll admit I dont know the difference between open cell vs. closed cell insulation besides spelling, so not sure what kind we grabbed. But it is a wood framed house so I guess thats a bonus kinda, moisture wise that is.

[Shallow Runner]

Moisture barriers is a directional barrier. It stops the flow in 1 direction. In regular houses the vapor barrier is to keep moisture from getting into the house. In fish houses the moisture is inside the house. Winter air is dry. To get the best moisture removal from your walls I think no moisture barrier is the best in a fish house so it can breath in both directions dry out. I talked to a salesman who sells the most common moisture barrier (T-V)and he did not want it in his fish house so it would breath out. If it is installed like a regular house it is stopping the flow of moisture and actually trapping it IN the house where the moisture is... Therefore it will rot your wood faster. And also steel and alum studs transfers the moisture faster so you will have more problems in the future. The biggest problem is to use fiberglass insulation. It will be like a sponge as time goes on and will collect water and drop to the floor and rot out big time.

Sorry, kind of late to the party. However, would it be a problem to wrap the house outside of the studs with a building wrap. I built a house, wraped with Tyvek or something similar and put steel siding over that. Inside I insulated, put up a vapor barrier then finished with knotty pine. Needless to say the pine is in the process of coming down as many of the boards have warped do to the trapping of the moisture inside. Will I be ok with the wrap between the siding and the studs?

[LindellProStaf]

Are you using a non-vented heater? If so that is a huge no - no. They put moisture in a house big time. If you keep your window cracked to let the moisture out the heater runs more and puts more moisture in. A lose lose situation.

[Shallow Runner]

Are you using a non-vented heater? If so that is a huge no - no. They put moisture in a house big time. If you keep your window cracked to let the moisture out the heater runs more and puts more moisture in. A lose lose situation.

So, should I not have wrap between the siding and the studs either?

[Shallow Runner]

Are you using a non-vented heater? If so that is a huge no - no. They put moisture in a house big time. If you keep your window cracked to let the moisture out the heater runs more and puts more moisture in. A lose lose situation.

And yes, a non vented heater.

[LindellProStaf]

I know non-vented heaters are cheap but you will never get away from your moisture problems with that kind of heater. Eventually your window frames will rot out too. Also get thermopane windows. Then you will have a great house. L & M has a vented one for $400. It will solve all of your problems. Homeline or something like that is the brand. I have one and love it. That is half the price of the popular brands.

[LindellProStaf]

I guess I wouldn't worry about the wrap between the siding and studs. Might be a good thing.

[Shallow Runner]

Thanks for the help. Wish I had seen this about 8 months ago!

[Shallow Runner]

Thanks for the help. wish I had seen this sooner!

[LindellProStaf]

One more thing for you to think of. I didn't used to think an insulated floor was an important thing. Well I know differently now. With an insulated floor it is so much warmer and it dries out so fast, where an uninsulated carpeted floor may take days to dry out in real cold weather. Computer fans are the way to go for air movement. So with thermopane windows, insulated floor, and a vented heater you will be as comfortable as you are in your livingroom at home. The more your vented heater runs the more dried out your house will be. The more a unvented heater runs the more wet your house will be. AND you won't get headaches or respiratory issues from long durations with a dangerous amount of CO2 and lack of oxygen in your house. Good luck and you will love your remodeled house.

[Swiftswamper]

my buddy and i are building a 12x6.5 wheel house. we have our steel but need to purchase our tires and rims. What size would be best?

[LindellProStaf]

The bigger the tires the better they roll over cracks in the ice. 14's or 15's for sure.