Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

wiring up new house


jim345

Recommended Posts

i am looking for tips or diagrams for wiring up our new wheel house , how to connect to batteries , fuse box etc.

How many devices do you plan on having? I'll assume lights, but what else did you want to put in?

Once I know what you're trying to do I can give you some of the resources I used for my electrical components.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey , 16 foot drop down , so prob three lights in cieling , 8 hole lights , several , cig lighter outlets for phone charging , then 120 lites and outlets with an outside plug for generator , mostly open floor plan , so far , biffy in the front v . we just got the frame done , painted , ready to start framing ,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I picked one spot in the back of our house where the bench will be and ran all the wiring to there.

It ended up looking like this....

utf-8BSU1HMDAwMjEtMjAxMDEyMTAtMTUwNS5qcG

The fuse box worked out great. It has a common feed wire for all the fuses. That made it alot simpler. Also towards the bottom you can see the isolated battery posts I used for where the battery cables terminate at. I also have a set of battery posts on the outside of the house. The blue thing in the bottom left is a battery isolator for outside charging posts.

The left side of the terminals is for all the 110. I ran the wire from the generator plug in through the circuit breaker and then the rest of the outlets in parallel. I chose not to try and run one set of wires into an outlet box and having another set come out to feed the next outlet. It's tough to close up a shallow single gang box with two sets of wires in it.

The center part of the terminals is just for the 7 pin trailer wiring. This could have really been terminated within the walls, but I wanted to be able to have access to them just in case.

The right side of the terminal blocks is for the individual circuits. I have lights, furnace, hole lights and 12 volt receptacle on their own circuits.

I found some cheap 12 volt receptacle in milaca. They look like this...

utf-8BSU1HMDAwMjMtMjAxMDEyMTAtMTUwNi5qcG

I wasn't too concerned about the wiring for the 12 volts. I just have them sticking through the spray foam in the approximate locations I wanted them.

Here's my 12 volt next to my 110. I haven't removed the tape covering the 110 gang box, but you can see it in the picture.

utf-8BSU1HMDAwMjItMjAxMDEyMTAtMTUwNS5qcG

I wired my hole lights like the 12 volt receptacles. I used led license plate lights that are available all over the place. I made up some plates to mount the light and a rocker switch for each light. Once again I just ran the wires in the approximate locations. I'll just cut a hole in the wall for the wire and the switch and then cover it up with the plates I made.

utf-8BUEFSVDk1MTI5MTkzODQ1NzE1NC5qcGVn.j

Link to comment
Share on other sites

wow , i like how you used the wago terminal blocks , looks like allot of work . looks very nice ! , i dont know where to start , like wire from light location to location , not bring all wires to one spot , one parrallel circuit for each side for the hole lights , a pair of wires to a light location then a pair to the next spot etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

wow , i like how you used the wago terminal blocks , looks like allot of work . looks very nice ! , i dont know where to start , like wire from light location to location , not bring all wires to one spot , one parrallel circuit for each side for the hole lights , a pair of wires to a light location then a pair to the next spot etc.

All of my dome lights are switched by the door. I ran one main power and common wire from the fuse box to the switch and then ran a separate set of wires from each switch to each dome light.

I have a pair of wires for the hole lights. One set runs down one wall and the other does the other wall. There I just ran one set to the first hole light location and then ran a second set of wires from there to the next hole light.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Truly sorry to hear that duffman! I know that feeling.  Keep the good memories  
    • Chamois passed away this weekend a couple days short of her 13th bday. What a great dog to hang out with here at home and on distant adventures. Gonna miss ya big time my little big girl.
    • Sounds pretty sweet, alright. I will check them out, thanks.
    • If you really want to treat your wife (and yourself) with a remote operated trolling motor, the Minn Kota Ulterra is about easy as it gets.  Auto stow and deploy is pretty awesome.  You just have to turn the motor on when you go out and that the last time you have to touch it.   24V 80lb.  60 inch shaft is probably the right length for your boat.  They ain’t cheap - about $3k - but neither one of you would have to leave your seat to use it all day.
    • Wanderer, thanks for your reply. I do intend for it to be 24 volt, with a thrust of 70-80. Spot lock is a must (my wife is looking forward to not being the anchor person any more).  With my old boat we did quite a lot of pulling shad raps and hot n tots, using the trolling motor. Unlikely that we will fish in whitecaps, did plenty of that when I was younger. I also need a wireless remote, not going back to a foot pedal. We do a fair amount of bobber fishing. I don't think I will bother with a depth finder on the trolling motor. I am leaning toward moving my Garmin depth finder from my old boat to the new one, just because I am so used to it and it works well for me. I am 70 years old and kinda set in my ways...
    • Dang, new content and now answers.   First, congrats on the new boat!   My recommendation is to get the most thrust you can in 24V, assuming a boat that size isn’t running 36V.  80 might be tops?  I’m partial to MinnKota.     How do you plan to use the trolling motor is an important question too.     All weather or just nice weather?   Casting a lot or bait dragging?   Bobber or panfish fishing?   Spot lock?  Networked with depth finders?  What brand of depth finders?
    • We have bought a new boat, which we will be picking up this spring. It is an Alumacraft Competitor 165 sport with a 90 horse Yamaha motor. I will be buying and installing a trolling motor,  wondering if I can get some recommendations on what pound thrust I will want for this boat?  Also, I will be selling my old boat, is there a good way to determine the value on an older boat ( mid-80's with a 75 horse 2-stroke  Mariner motor)  I will appreciate any help with these questions.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.