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Auger trouble


Chuck-B

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I have a 10" Jiffy Stealth 3hp. When I start up the auger and let it idle the auger spins. I cant just let it run while I am cleaning out a hole cause the auger keeps spinning. If I drill down halfway through the ice and let go the power head spins around. I am guessing its a clutch issue but I am not that familiar with the insides of the auger and havent found any websites that have helped me yet. Any feedback would be appreciated

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If the carb is a little dirty it will run lean. With that the RPMs will increase.

You could turn the low speed adjustment out a hair at a time to see it that helps.

Another symptom of an out of adjustment low speed mixture or dirty carb is hard starting when cold.

Or it could be as simple as the idle speed adjustment. This is not a mixture type adjustment like the low speed mixture screw. It is just a screw that goes against the throttle stop.

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If the clutch is fully engaged all the time, at any RPM, it likely is a broken Clutch Spring...easy fix, not an expensive fix either. Even a new clutch in not that expensive or hard to install yourself. Most lawn and garden stores that service mowers should have access to a clutch or a spring to repair it.

If it is not fully engaged the head will stop turning under light or no pressure at a low idle speed, it should obviously be disengaged.

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My 2 hp Stealth was that way from day one. When I talked to the dealer he told me that on this model it sometimes took a while for the clutch to start working right. When the auger was four years old, I called Jiffy and explained the situation. They sent me a shipping label and I sent the powerhead to them. They repaired the clutch and sent the power head back to me at no charge which I thought was great customer service. I probably should have poked the dealer in the eye though. crazy

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Thanks for all the posts, I dont think its any thing with the engine idle cause it never used to spin and I have never turned the idle screw. Ed Carlson, I took it all apart and the 2 springs dont look broke at all. Any thing else I should look at? If I put the blade in the ice or the ground right now when its idling I can hold it back from spinning but I really have to hang on. Thanks again for all the help fellas

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Chuck-B..any update to this?

I bought an older model 30 recently and am having the same issue.

Installed a new carb kit (did not do welch plugs...yet), and I have the idle screw back off all the way. I can't seem to get the auger to idle low enough to not spin the auger. If I set the idle low it wont keep running when warm, if I turn up the idle screw even a little bit it will run......but spins the auger non-stop.

Any thoughts?

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It shouldn't run with the idle set screw backed all the way out. That sets the throttle butterfly to a slightly open position. Is the carb dripping gas by any chance?

How about the governor, spring.

I guess I would tune the high speed adjustment mixture screw just in case you have that way off.

At WOT turn the screw out till it starts to bog. Now turn in till you hit max RPMs, that is lean so you'll want to turn it back out just till those RPMs start to drop again. Whatever it takes that is where you want it. Turn the engine off.

Now get the idle speed set. Your going to guess for a bit but get that set screw to make contact with the throttle linkage and give it half a turn.

If you like remove the drill from the powerhead. (Don't run the engine at high RPMs with the drill off.)

Find the Low Speed Mixture Screw and Start the engine.

If the RPMs are high, slowly turn the Low Speed Mixture Screw out, the RPMs should start to drop. Why? because your richening the fuel to air mixture. You'll be adjusting the Idle Set Screw and Low Seed Mixture Screw to get the optimum RPMs and LS fuel mixture. Eventually when you'll want to get to the highest RPM with the Low Speed Mixture and then turn out till the RPMs start to drop. This will ensure the engine will start good when cold. If it is set too lean it will be hard to start and run cold blooded. Now set the idle set screw to a good idle RPM.

When your done with all that, put the drill back on and tune the high speed mixture on the ice under load. Its the same you want to get to the max RPMs and then tune out till they just start to drop. This will ensure your not running the engine lean. If it bogs under load that is normally to rich, you'll fall below the RPMs needed to lock the clutch and it'll slip. If it just quits your too lean.

I guess I would inspect the clutch drum for gouges, out of round, or a build up of crud and as Ed said check the clutch assembly for broken springs. With the engine off can you rotate the drill without it turning the engine over?

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Thanks Frank, that helped a lot! For some reason I was not thinking about the idle adjustment screw setting the throttle butterfly....makes perfect sense now. I have some air flow now and got the motor running decent.

These 3hp engines seem a little finicky when it comes to the angle your holding the engine at, but I got it running decent when the engine is level. It's not moving the auger now unless I tilt the engine over a little with the carb side leaning down which I think keeps a little less gas from entering the head..thus leans out and increases RPM's a bit.

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