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Fish House Build Ideas?


travlingypsy

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Here are a couple general ideas. You'll be more successful with replies if you give us a little bit more to work with (budget, ideas you have, questions you have, etc.)

In my house I have a 3 bank on board charger (1 bank to each battery). I have a momentary switch hooked up to each battery gauge, so as to not drain the batteries by running a light and gauge.

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My floor is covered in Rhinoliner, there is a removable pedestal table, catch covers, and vinyl covered mattresses.

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There is a programmable thermostat for the forced air furnace, wireless weather gauge, car stereo (close to TV to hook up surround sound), make sure you have plenty of outlets.

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Another good idea is to weld a couple tow hooks to your frame.

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If you have questions, ask away.

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Nice house Lip Ripper! What charging amperage does your charger put out per bank?

I really like foam insulation, worth every penny.

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I also like using LED lights. I got them from superbrightled.I used toggle switches to turn them on/off. I can go 4 days before charging the battery for the lights. With them all on I burn less than 20 watts and it is bright as day in there. I usually only turn on two of the shorts strips during night fishing burning just a couple watts. I also have two red strips of LED's that were not on at the time of the pictures.

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I put an LED and switch for under the cabinet also. full-22683-8970-img_7780.jpg

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Not for the interior. But there was a thread running on HSO this winter about a guy who fashioned his own wind mill for his fish house using a car alternator. Said he could run his TV, microwave, etc all the time with no problems.

That seemed to be the ticket if you spend a lot of time on the ice and have a lot of electronics running inside.

I was able to find the thread if anyone is interested:

http://www.hotspotoutdoors.com/forum/ubb...elp#Post2465523

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Galvanized trailer, throw away your on board charger and get an RV Converter. This will allow you to use 110 from your generator, run your 12 volt off of your gererator, and use anything it has left over to charge your battery(s) at 3 different stages. Make sure you run a fan constantly when up and running due to the incredible moisture/condensation that's present. For all power coming from truck to trailer use a heavy duty 14 gauge harness that goes into a junction box. Make sure you connect the constant hot to the battery through this so that your truck is charging your fish house batteries while in transit. If you have any nail heads or brads exposed, if they are not made of stainless steel I would put a thin layer of poly on them. When they condensate they can rust and stain the wood. Just some thoughts......

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    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
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