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2000 Chev Malibu


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2000 Chevy Malibu, with the 3.1, 129,000 miles

Couple questions:

1. The Passengers side tie rod end/ball joint needs to be replaced. Is this something that as long as I am replacing the passenger's side i should also do the drivers side? It will obviously need to be taken in for an alignment after I replace it. The drivers side still seems solid, while the passengers side is a little loose.

2. I changed oil this weekend and noticed on the oil cap there was quite a bit of buildup of the white/yellow stuff on it. I know it is pretty standard in the winter for this to happen, and I know that it comes from moisture. I'm more looking for how much is normal, and what would be the main cause for what I think is a bit excessive of buildup. More background info: My wife only drives about 10-12 miles to work each direction, so the car never really has a chance to get good and hot. Skip the excuses, but the oil did not get changed until around 7000 miles and it has standard oil. And finally... see #3

3. She bought the car used in 2006, and for about as long as i can remember it has leaked some antifreeze, not a ton, but enough to get annoying, and leave some puddles on the floor of the garage. I know these are known for having intake issues (gaskets I believe), what are the symptoms of having these issues? Do these end up with an internal, or external leak, or both? And where if external. I think that I have traced the trail up to where it is leaking, I have included a picture below. It appears to be leaking below the engine pick point.

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If the other side is solid than don't worry about it just replace the parts that are loose/worn out.

The little bit of froth on the oil cap is normal. If the coolant was leaking enough internally the oil would start to look like chocolate milk. When it gets to that point the engine is done and you'll have better luck starter with a used/new motor.

The pic you provided is the perfect example of an external intake gasket leak. Eventually it will get bad enough that it will be a steady stream. Getting it taking care of as soon as possible is always way better. When dexcool is run low it does some nasty things to aluminum components. I have had one 3.2 in the past that the heads where so pitted that there was no way to make them seal. The customer went with a used motor.

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One more question I forgot to put in the first post:

4. The check oil light is on, and has been for a while. I believe I have read somewhere that there is a sensor that likes to go out and cause this light to go on. Is this what the wires go to under the oil pan? If this is all correct what does it all take to replace? dropping the oil pan? If i have to drop the pan, i want to be sure to have everything I need before I start, is there a gasket that I would need to get, or would just some Permatex silicone do the trick?

On the intake gasket, how difficult are these to replace yourself, or if I decide to throw in the towel and have somebody else do it, what would be a ballpark estimate to have it done?

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You don't need to drop the pan to replace the oil level sensor. Personally, I would just unplug it. Those sensors are worthless to me. Just another light that everyone ignores anyway. If you want it replaced, there is just a screw that holds it into place, and an o-ring to seal it.

BBB

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The intake gasket will require a 1/4 inch torque wrench, 3/8 torque wrench, some swivel sockets, and there are some specialty tools that make the job a lot easier. If you have those and a fair amount of automotive knowledge than it will probably take you 6 to 12 hours depending on your skill. The push rods are different length and it is vitally important that the go back in the right place! Felpro sells a complete kit with everything you will need.

As far as shop price, you can expect $500 to $1000 depending on your location and what is done. Its a great time to replace the oil pump drive o-ring, plugs, and thermostat while its being done.

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